Problems with axles...

Hi all. Sorry for the wall of text.

Recently I purchased an 03 Toyota Tacoma SR5 Limited w/ a 6 inch fabtech lift on it.

When I purchased the truck the seller pointed out that some of the CV boots were torn and they'd need to be replaced. He correctly informed me that lifted trucks often tear stock CV boots very quickly because of the higher angle so I may need to get high angle offroad-purposed inner cv boots. I got 2 high angle inner cv boots and 2 replacement outers (Which are supposed to be more durable than the stock ones) thinking i'd be dandy.

I took em into my shop to see if they'd replace the boots and they said the joints were so dry they'd rather just replace the whole CV assembly. Understandable, I was worried that might have to be done. They replace the whole CV assembly (both sides) and they recommended I leave the stock boots on there and see how long they will last before putting the after market ones on. This seemed like a reasonable suggestion, so I went with it. Anyway, I drive from Las Vegas NV to Albuquerque a few days ago and when I arrive in Albuquerque I immediately check my CV boots. Sure enough, the clamp on one had broken off and was spraying grease and the other one was all 'crunched' up... kinda hard to decribe, but it was not in the shape it should have been in. Fuck... so I take it to a local guy here who works on driveshafts and he takes the axle out, and realizes the entire axle has become completely disarticulated. The shaft had completely pulled out of the joint that is supposed to hold it and parts of the inside of the joint were broken. There was very obvious metal fatigue around the joint when you wiped away the grease.

Well shit. So this guy at the driveshaft place is telling me he thinks these axles are too short. To him, he says it looks like they should be longer because the angle of the axle means it needs to be longer to span the same horizontal distance. Everyone else I've talked to, says this should be totally unnecessary as the fabtech lift drops the front differential as well, so the angle should be identical to the stock angle or close enough that it wouldn't matter a whole lot (if done correctly?). The previous owner of the truck confirmed this and said he's been using the stock axles with no problem for the entire time he had it.

The axles are both warrantied (at a nationwide chain) so I can get them replaced here in ABQ (with the new boots put on too). I'm just worried the same thing is going to happen again. Does anyone know why this is happening? Is it just a faulty axle? The other axle was still articulated, despite one of the boot seals breaking and spraying grease. Some folks mentioned axle spacers, but I thought you only needed those IF you don't have a diff drop... which this truck has. I am kind of learning all of this as I go so forgive me if I have used wrong terminology in places. I can post some pics tomorrow if needed.

Any help or advice would be very welcome.

Also, if this isn't the right place for this post lemme know. I didn't see a subsection of the garage forum that would have been fitting.

 

Well I've done some more research, and this seems to be a problem with high lifts + big tires on small trucks.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJIFS-TOY1

Supposedly these will solve my woes... but they are $2000. :O Holy crap. Gonna have to wait on that one.

In the meantime, I think I'll try removing the body lift that the previous owner put on it and switching out the 35's for 33's. I'm hoping the lower center of gravity plus smaller tires (and as a result, lower ground clearance) will reduce some of the stress on these axles.

Guys... if you're thinking about putting a 6 inch suspension lift, 3 inch body lift, and 35's on your 1st gen Tacoma... DO NOT DO IT.

(Really though... how many people would do that besides the previous owner of this truck? )

 

First off welcome

Yes you are correct, the fabtech DB lift should keep your CV axles at or close to stock height. I would also recommend you lose the diff drop, if you read a couple of threads on here it shows more harm than good (not necessarily harm, just has no use at all). Also you mentioned it has a 3" BL, so you are running 9" of lift with the fabtech lift, I would think the previous owner had them install a spacer on top of the coil or swapped the coils to a stiffer coil to make the CV angles more harsh, if you posted up some pics of your suspension it would help tremendously.

You don't necessarily have to get rid of the 35s, in fact (just my opinion) I would keep them, (I love 35s ) also, I would say the person that installed the CV axles didn't install them properly, even if the angles are severe you shouldn't have issues that soon after an install, and if you buy OEM cv axles it should come with the boots installed. Have them re-install new OEM CVs and do the water hose clamp method, just hit the search bar at the top and you should be good to go after that.

 

A 6 inch drop bracket like Fabtech, or Procomp will keep your CV angles the same as stock. The truck must have some kind of coilover lift along with the drop bracket.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I *would* like to keep the 35's... Heh. It very well might have a coilover lift. Prior to buying this truck, I had no experience with lifted or offroad purposed vehicles so I am definitely learning all of this as I go. I'll post some pics ASAP so the hive mind can troubleshoot.

 

All of the close ups are of the passengers side.

 

Whoa. Those are enormous... Sorry about that.

Figured it would automatically rescale them...

 

It does rescale them. Just... very slowly...

 

Just as I thought, Radflo coil overs are cranked up to the max... lower them back to the stock settings and you should have no more Cv issues..

 

X2 definitely lower those coil overs down and you should be good to go

 

To add to what I just said do you have any kind of blocks in the rear? If you lower the front down it will look like a drag car with out lowering the back. So either your remove blocks or get smaller ones or buy new leaf springs to match the front with it lowered back down

 

Keep us updated! Sub'd

 

Those are my specs! But no problems ... Guess I did it better than the previous owner of your truck... Anywho, def drop bracket to keep those CVs in line! But anything with "bigger than stock specs" is gonna have parts wear out faster, so be ready to put in the extra work/money/time even when going down to 33s! It's just "one of those things" when modifying anything. But I wouldn't change my truck at all! She's a beaut' and just the way I like her! Different strokes for different folks!

 

Your truck IS a beaut! Its not the look of those specs I don't like (though I would prefer no body lift)... just my perhaps incorrect assumption that my truck being modified in the way that it is, is leading to all of these problems. In retrospect, its probably more my ignorance about the parts/modifications that's leading to these problems ;D

Will post an update soon.

 

OH, perhaps this is a dumb question... but are there any safety precautions I need to watch out for when lowering these things (other than the typical make sure the ebrake is on, etc)? Or do I just pop this little special wrench in those holes and turn to lower them? I suppose I should clean the threads first... Also, what are the "stock" settings for these coilovers? No thread showing under the spacer? Or do they come with a specific amount of lift stock?

 

One good wall deserves another!

As they said, lowering should take care of your CV/boot issues.

FWIW you have the "second style" SwayAway shocks. First was the same thing but with a 5/8" shock shaft, second around 2001 went to a 7/8" shaft and third style has the 7/8" shaft with shock body mounted up, shaft down with Heim joints top and bottom.

From personal experience I would "start" with about 1/2 the threads showing below the adjusters than you have now. I say "start" because each truck is always a little different, springs settle/sag and the drivers side usually takes a thread or 2 more than the passenger.

As far as tips with the adjustment.

Jack the truck up so the shocks are fully extended, much easier to turn the adjusters that way.
Clean clean clean the threads. In Az this should not be that big of a job. Before turning the adjuster, coat the threads below with Anti-Seize.
The adjuster has a set screw to lock it. Check all of the "holes", one is a little out of place and has the set screw. Remove that screw completely and fill the bore with Anti-seize then screw it all the way back in to "pump" a little of the A-S into the threads. Back the screw off a bit and go to town.
Final tightening of the set screw (SAE Allen head) should be no more than hand tight with a long handle allen wrench.

Generally because the shock is roughly 1/2 way out on the lower control arm, the ratio between adjuster change to "Lift" is 1" of adjuster change (spring preload) = 2" lift change (approx). All this might be skewed a bit with the FT lift.
The red poly SAW upper mount bushings like to deteriorate so check them. On that shock a crumbling upper bushing can equal an inch less of ride height.
Not sure where you are at with wrenching but if you want to take these shocks apart you must use a spring compressor before removing the nut on the top end of the shaft. There is enough stored energy in the springs to kill.

FWIW most all the aftermarket "new" CVs are Chinese knock offs. Some folks have good luck with them, many others don't. They can be weaker and have less range of motion than OEM. Additionally any boots purchased as aftermarket replacements may or may not fit. The low price and usually "lifetime" guarantee is worth considering but used OEM or OEM rebuilds are the best.
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Good luck

 

Dirty Pool: This is immensely helpful! A million internet brownie points for you! I'll let you know how it goes (gotta run to the store and get some of that anti-sieze stuff first).

 

Hi i'm new to this site, I have a 03 tacoma prerunner and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on the fabtech 3.5" coilover system.
Is this a good lift to run if i do not do much off roading?
If i adjust it to the full 3.5" will it cause any wear on my cv's? If so how could i correct this and should i get the aftermarket uca's?

 

Prerunner doesn't have cvs. That's only for 4x4

 

yeah i meant to say ball joints. I currently have a 2.5" spacer in the front and a 1.5" in the back. I was looking for a little more lift though and just wanted opinions on what lift would be the best for my truck in the long run.