2013 3 inch suspension questions

So for the last few weeks Ive been doing major research on the main types of suspensions (LT, DB, and 3 inch). After going through the pros and cons of each suspension, analyzing what you have to do to the body, frame, and fenders, and also taking into consideration the type of driving and off roading I want to do, I've came to the conclusion that a 3 inch lift would best suit my needs.

So everyone knows (cause from prior posts people getting flamed for not explaining their intentions), I will be driving my truck 75% on road, and 25% off road, some being slow trails and more articulation, and some beig mid speed (30 to 50mph) dirt trails with no extreme whoops or bumps.

Now that you know... Here comes the questions that I can't seem to fully piece together and also would love some comments of each type of suspension I'm looking at. Also, my price range is not set, because i want to do the truck the best way I can for my needs, so if the $1000 is the best, then ill save for it, if a $3500 system is the best, ill save for it.

So here's what I'm looking at:

Toytec ultimate suspension.
Fabtech (either the uniball, or the UCA with dirt logic equipment)
Icon suspension (stage 1,2,3, or 4)

Obviously spending the most money on the icon stage 4 suspension would be ideal, but I want to know if that's too much suspension. Also want to know which kit is best for my situation so I can keep my onroad ride ( it's my DD) and be able to beat it up a little off road and not have to worry.

Another question I have is the tire and wheel sizes that fit, without having to shave, cut, or ulter anything by my wheels, and not have rubbing. Be it the dimensions of the tires being 32's or 31's instead of 33's. or be it spacers, or backspacing... Whatever it is. I would just like to understand what dimensions for

 

You cannot run a 33" tall 285 without cutting. There is no such thing as too much suspension. That said, if you care most about unladen ride quality I'd go King coilover front with reduced valving (digressive Icons can be smoother offroad at speed but firmer on pavement) set to 2-2.5" lift, a Light Racing UCA to add 1 deg caster instead of 2 which will make rubbing a strong possibility, a Deaver rear spring pack (everything else is harsher on road unladen) and King rears... also custom valved soft.

That is the highest quality, least rubbing, softest riding set up. Do not get an E rated tire. Use 30 psi on street. 4.5" backspace wheels.

 

4Wheelin4Banger runs a 33" tire (255/85/16) with a 3 inch lift and no cutting IIRC and it looks pretty good

 

You are correct Ronn. 255/85/16 BFG KM2s are 33.3" on 1st Gen TRDs (16"x7" 4.5"BS the decreased BS pushes the tires out .75" farther than stock). I'm running OME 885s & Dakars, originally 3" front & rear (2.5" front on your DCSB or add .25" spacer to get full 3") now 2.75" front & rear after adding sliders & full set of skids with .25" top plate spacer to regain .5" up front.
Great ride on & off road. Firmer than stock but not harsh. Sway bar removed for better articulation, body roll is probably similar to stock.
Very happy with the suspension I got, and the money I saved compared to a higher end system allowed me to get trail armor sooner.
My sig pic is a link to my build thread, click it if you want to see more.

 

FWIW I also run a 285/75/16 KM2 With 5100's @ 2.5'' and progressive AAL in the rear with no rubbing, cutting or trimming. 4.5'' BS on FJ's

 

Based on your needs and the lifts listed I would say an Icon set-up for sure. The stage 4 would not be "too much suspension" but, given your usage, you would not be getting the most out of your investment. To put it another way, the law of diminishing returns would get you after the stage 2 setup. If it was my hard-earned and your situation I would go for icon's stage 2 plus LR UCA's ....and not loose any sleep over it. That would be a fantastic setup for just under 3k installed.

 

Okay sorry for the late response to everything.

Soo either I can piece together a suspensions as devl and 4wheel said... Or I can go with the stage 2 icon suspension set up with a UCA... But what is a LR UCA, is that low range?

 

And truthfully I don't want to piece together a bunch of parts because knowing me I would mess it up.

So from my understanding is the icon stage 2 kit would work the best for my needs with a UCA and would fit 33's without rubbing? What if I dropped down to 32's? Would I not haw to worry at all

 

And what light racing UCA would you suggest?

 

Spc makes light racing UCAs, if you going with a high end coilover like icons i would suggest getting a uniball UCA, the light racing UCAs are balljoint style. Uniballs offer cleaner travel

 

Also looking at the kits in icon... I could go stage 3 and save the money instead of buying separate UCAs and have it all come in 1 kit? Or are there UCAs tha are just as good but cheaper

 

And what uniball UCAs would you suggest?

 

Just go for it! Got a cyber deal on my Stage 4. Billet UCA 's are very nice.
I went with 16 inch wheels and 285's and had minimal trimming after taking off the front flaps. Very happy with it now that got it level and tuned up.

 

Bultaco... I don't use mud flaps so that's not an issue.

How is the ride on and off road?

Also what parts did you have to trim to cause no rubbing?

 

Not much. But again I went 16 inch wheel

 

Adding a uca that adds caster compounds rubbing issues.

 

Is that tire 33" tall? I see it is 33.1 and 11.3" wide which is narrow for a 285 however I don't believe you dont rub without trimming under compression while turning. Just not gonna happen.

 

285/75/16 is around 32.6, 32.7". 285 is the width. A 285 on stock wheels requires spacers so the tires dont rub the UCAs. Or you can go with aftermarket wheels with a 0 to -12 offset. If you run a 285/75/16 or 285/70/17 you will most likely have to trim, and theres a possibility that you will have to modify the body mounts, (CMC cab mount chop) just because some people claim they dont rub or have minor rubbing doesnt mean you wont. If you go with 285s be ready to cut

 

This. Which is a common misconception on TW. Most people think added caster moves the wheel foward in the wheel well, but its not that simple. Adding caster at the top of the spindle with the UCA will actually move the wheel back.

 

DevL got it right. He just didn't explain it as well as you did.