1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Front brakes, how hard to service them?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ZMan2k2, Mar 29, 2013.

  1. Mar 29, 2013 at 1:59 PM
    #1
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] “Hold my beer and watch this!”

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Member:
    #62491
    Messages:
    1,799
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    ‘Berta
    Vehicle:
    06 Rad Red DCLB SR5
    So I did my 90k service today, and noticed that I'm almost to the wear clips on my front brakes. My rears still have plenty of meat on them, so it's just the front that I need to worry about. How hard is it to swap the front pads and rotors? Should I go OEM, or would an upgrade be in order? EBC pads and rotors for example.
     
  2. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:02 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6497
    Messages:
    112,751,503
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    FlimFlubberJAM
    Tenoe, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2019 Rubicon 4 Door,
    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    OEM pads aree the best mix of performance, low dust, and stopping power. Its easy as pie to replace them. Loosen the brake fluid resivoire, Pull the tire off, remove the spring clip, remove 2 pins on the front and back of the caliper, then slide the pads out. Carfully compress the pistons, then insert the new pads. Do one side of the caliper at a time, so as to not have one side of pistons over extend while you are compressing the others in.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6mB_YQP0r8
     
  3. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:05 PM
    #3
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,331
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    Stick with OEM.

    I've used EBC on my bike and have not been happy with them.
     
  4. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:07 PM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6497
    Messages:
    112,751,503
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    FlimFlubberJAM
    Tenoe, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2019 Rubicon 4 Door,
    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    This ^^^

    Remember, "Performance" pads are softer, and will wear out quicker. "Longevity" pads are harder, and can be hard on your rotors. OEM is the best of both worlds.
     
  5. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #5
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,331
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    And shortcuts.

    EBC specifies the same pad for the front and rear right side of the Vulcan 1600.
    It's a 4mm pad.

    OEM pads have two different part numbers for the front and rear. Front pad is 4mm, rear pad is 9mm.

    The Kawasaki pads lasted 15k. The EBC pads lasted 7k, and were very "grabby"... had a few "oh shit" moments where they locked up. But even though they were "grabby", they didn't stop any better.
    Kawasaki pads were less than $10 more than the EBC pads... $170 vs $150 for the set of 3 pads.
     
  6. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:35 PM
    #6
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] “Hold my beer and watch this!”

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Member:
    #62491
    Messages:
    1,799
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    ‘Berta
    Vehicle:
    06 Rad Red DCLB SR5
    Thanks guys. And thanks chris for the video. So easy a caveman can do it, or me, whichever.:D Time to order me up some new pads.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2013 at 2:48 PM
    #7
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2009
    Member:
    #18122
    Messages:
    16,128
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '09 FourDubDee TRD OR
    A-TRUCK, Fat Kid in the Bed, Custom Pinstriping, Ported and Polished Muffler Bearing, Hi-Performance Bed Mat
    Front brakes is much easy. I'm in the middle of drum brake hell with my passenger rear right now. Gotta wait for the dealership to open up tomorrow so I can get new shoes. The old ones got warped when the e-brake lever froze out of place then slipped outside the reaction lever. It was a mess in there...broken return spring, I had to file down the lip of the backing plate so it won't rub and squeal on the drum... to top it off, Autozone gave me the wrong aftermarket brake shoes.

    Only went with them because the dealership was closed today. Returning them in the morning and picking up the OEM stuff.
     
  8. Mar 30, 2013 at 12:04 PM
    #8
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] “Hold my beer and watch this!”

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Member:
    #62491
    Messages:
    1,799
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    ‘Berta
    Vehicle:
    06 Rad Red DCLB SR5
    Thanks to the video, I had the fronts done in 45 min. The pins were rusted in pretty good, but a brass drift and a hammer fixed that. No shimmy, no squeal, and I have brakes that will last another 90k kms. Thanks again guys.
     
  9. Apr 1, 2013 at 12:44 PM
    #9
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Member:
    #27076
    Messages:
    356
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    05prerunner SR5 DBLCAB
    They are very easy to do. You might want to consider getting the ceramic pads because they release less brake dust, I little more pricey but well worth it I think. One thing that hasn't been covered in this thread is Don't forget to remove the fluid reservior cap when you press the calipers pistons back in, keep an eye on the fluid level constantly as you do this step, you might need to remove some fluid out. good luck man
     
  10. Apr 4, 2013 at 11:33 PM
    #10
    MountainEarth

    MountainEarth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2010
    Member:
    #30519
    Messages:
    2,481
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
    CO
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD OR Access
    Leer 100XR Shell, BedRug mat - comfy sleeping, GT Covers microfiber seat covers, BFG All Terrains 265/70r16, Dashmat, Antennax 13" shorty antenna, Weathertech liners, Ultra Gauge, Avid Light Bar, PIAA 520 ATPs, one old dog
    What kind of lubricant does he put on the back of those pads?
     
  11. Apr 13, 2013 at 11:44 PM
    #11
    DESRTRNNR

    DESRTRNNR Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Member:
    #102034
    Messages:
    299
    Gender:
    Male
    Phoenix
    Vehicle:
    13 DCSB TRD off road 4x4
    its not really lubricant.. it is an ant vibration compound to keep brake squeal from happening.. that tab he pointed out but didnt know what it was is actually a built in squealer that lets you know your pads need to be replaced..
     
  12. Apr 13, 2013 at 11:57 PM
    #12
    adio

    adio Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2008
    Member:
    #9165
    Messages:
    2,643
    Gender:
    Male
    HI
    Vehicle:
    2015 INFERNO TRD PRO
    sub'd. can't wait to replace mines. noob question, but how do you actually loosen the fluid reservoirs?
     
  13. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:04 AM
    #13
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2008
    Member:
    #9942
    Messages:
    63,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Murph
    Bama! Roll Tide
    Vehicle:
    2011 Taco 4x4 DCLB 2019 TRD PRO 4runner 2018 RAM 2500 mega cab
    20% Tint, OME 3"complete lift with Dakar's, Light Racing UCA's, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 10 HP TW sticker, Ultraguage, B.A.M.F. Rock Sliders, MedicFab Bed Rack, Relentless front bumper, Air Flow Snorkel, Ham comms, Tech Deck
    Just open the cap.
     
  14. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:06 AM
    #14
    Brian007Taco

    Brian007Taco 007Taco

    Joined:
    May 16, 2012
    Member:
    #78964
    Messages:
    19,864
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    If you ask. You don't know me very well!
    Mesa, AZ to NM to OK to UT back to Mesa
    Vehicle:
    2012 Red TRD OR 4x4 DCSB (aka Clifford the Big Red Truck)
    12 OR DCSB 4x4 265/75/16 Goodyear Ultra Terrain wrapped on MB352's. OME 886's w/5100's front and back, and Dakars. Derped Emblems. KM Fab sliders, Mobtown Front and back bumpers w/tire gate, KM Fab Bed Rack, Bestop Supertop, Matt Gecko bed lights. Tree Smashed Taco 06 OR AC Prerunner! OME 885 with 5100's in front, TSB and AAL with 5125's in back. 30" light bar in the valance.
    I am going to need to do mine soon. Do you have to have the rotors done everytime you replace your brakes, or is that a dealership gimic to get more money out of you.
     
  15. Apr 14, 2013 at 12:17 AM
    #15
    adio

    adio Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2008
    Member:
    #9165
    Messages:
    2,643
    Gender:
    Male
    HI
    Vehicle:
    2015 INFERNO TRD PRO
    haha thanks, and I thought I had loosen things up or something.
     
  16. Apr 14, 2013 at 2:12 AM
    #16
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Tesla Auto

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2010
    Member:
    #28653
    Messages:
    1,249
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    Morgan Hill, U.S.A
    Vehicle:
    2006 Off Road 4X4
    Icon ext. travel 2.5RR in front, Icon ext. travel 2.0RR in rear, BuiltRight uniball UCAs, Wheelers Superbumps, Goodridge steel braided brake lines, BruteForce front plate bumper w/ Warn M9000+synth line, American Auto Horns ACDF, Pelfrey Bussman mount+Sandman bussman fuse block (soon), 255/75R16s on painted stockers...because I'm not paying $800 to rock rash new wheels you scrubs. Shok Industries 2/0 big 4 upgrade and sound deadener.
    We always machined rotors if we could or put new ones on when I was working in a repair shop. Bendix Brakes seminar I went to recommended the same thing to ensure proper mating of the new surfaces. Downside to not doing it is lack of stopping power, squealing, chatter etc. but I've never experienced any of those. YMMV
     
  17. Apr 14, 2013 at 8:08 AM
    #17
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 [OP] “Hold my beer and watch this!”

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2011
    Member:
    #62491
    Messages:
    1,799
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Richard
    ‘Berta
    Vehicle:
    06 Rad Red DCLB SR5
    I mic'd the rotors, and there's plenty of meat left on mine. All I did was rough up the surface with some 400grit sandpaper to help the bed in process. The rotor surface itself was plenty flat, without ridges from previous pads, to need a resurface.
     
  18. Apr 15, 2013 at 2:42 AM
    #18
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
    Member:
    #39105
    Messages:
    3,126
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Retribution
    South West
    Vehicle:
    08 SR5 Access V6 6-Speed
    Blacked-Out Badges; Retribution Decals (Sockmonkey); Tailgate Mod; Red LED Rear Blinkers; Yellow Foglights; Yellow Front Blinkers; Superwhite Xenon Corner Bulb; Leer Bedcap; Bedrug Bedmat; Black Cupholders; Black Plastic Piece Around Window Controls; Plasti-Dip Front Bumper Valence; Plasti-Dip Grill Surround; Blackout Chrome Back Bumper; Metal Miller Skid-Plate; Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler; TSB Rear Leaf Springs and Shocks; Satoshi Grill Pending; Off-Roading Torn off Mirror (Replaced); Blue-Sea Fuse Box; Tinted Tail Lights; URD Short Shifter; Interior Mood Lighting; Hood Lights; BedLights Pending
    So you're saying don't do it exactly like the video?
     
  19. Apr 15, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #19
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,331
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    LOL...

    I leave the old pads in place to compress the pistons. Makes it a lot easier on dual-piston calipers. Never done 4-piston (that I recall)
     
  20. Apr 15, 2013 at 9:35 PM
    #20
    Nirvana

    Nirvana Tesla Auto

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2010
    Member:
    #28653
    Messages:
    1,249
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kris
    Morgan Hill, U.S.A
    Vehicle:
    2006 Off Road 4X4
    Icon ext. travel 2.5RR in front, Icon ext. travel 2.0RR in rear, BuiltRight uniball UCAs, Wheelers Superbumps, Goodridge steel braided brake lines, BruteForce front plate bumper w/ Warn M9000+synth line, American Auto Horns ACDF, Pelfrey Bussman mount+Sandman bussman fuse block (soon), 255/75R16s on painted stockers...because I'm not paying $800 to rock rash new wheels you scrubs. Shok Industries 2/0 big 4 upgrade and sound deadener.
    Same. And yeah I'd do one caliper at a time like Chris said.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top