I'm tired of blowing out fuses

I'm about tired of swapping out fuse after fuse. I'm only using one amp at the moment (60A total draw) but plan on adding in another amp as well (which is also 60A total draw). In the past while using the one amp (powering subs), I have put in a 100A fuse and it eventually melted the fuse holder. So I put in a different fuse holder and am now using 60A fuses only. So with that in mind, I want to put in a circuit breaker BUT if I put in a 120A one, will that just end up switching off every now and then? I am assuming what will happen if I only have one amp wired as of now, it will do the same thing it did when I had the 100A fuse .... should I just get the 120A breaker anyway? Not installing the second amp anytime soon (don't have the wiring for it and not really sure when I will be able to install it).

 

going to be giving this a try on pay day

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZA0FE1712

 

Can you tell me everything about your stereo, your fuse isn't the issue, something else is causing this and adding bigger fuses is a bad idea.

What amps/subs
What size wire for power?
where is it grounded too?

If you have everything done correctly you shouldn't be popping fuses. And putting in bigger fuses is a bad idea (why your fuse holder melted).

Adding circuit breakers is a good idea, AFTER you figure out what is causing your fuses to pop.

Edit: I use a 60amp Monster Circuit breaker, I run a 600watt Mono block Alpine amp for the sub and a T400.4 Rockford amp for the mids/highs and I don't pop the breaker ever.

 

I agree....there's a root problem that's being missed. Give us the full rundown on your equipment and your install.

 

audio setup from engine bay to cab

Battery - brand new Bosch

P Terminal - (digital gauge is dead, got it for free though) 1 terminal for 0g (alt), 2 for 4g (to fuse holder) and top bolts for misc connections (used them for OE terminals - battery and one other wire)

N Terminal - OE terminal with two 4g wires to fender

0g from stock alt. to battery, on engine block to fender for gnd

Amp - (60a total draw) Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 4 channel (switched to 2 channels, bridged channels - 1/2 as 1, 3/4 as 1). All 4g to amp (gnd inside cab by driver door sill area under sill plastic thing)

Subwoofers - 10" Hifonics Zeus (SVC 4 ohm; both) 350W total RMS ea.

H.U. - Pioneer DEH 5000UB (default settings/presets - when I have my cell connected, max volume is around 45/46 - radio is about 48/50 something like that)

Speakers - front - 6.5" PB comps rated @ 75w rms (no amp - hooked up to h.u.); rear OE speakers

 

pics of your physical connections to/fro your amp?

 

hope this helps

 

That's a bad ground (last pic). You need to not have any paint for one and a metal screw into that part of the truck isn't good either.

I'll go over the rest later but that's one thing I saw right off the batt that isn't good.

 

I was told to run the gnd back to the battery ... but I don't think I have enough 4g to do that. Is there a closer contact spot where I currently have it placed?
I'll change out the screw to an all metal one later today.

 

I don't suggest grounding to the battery personally. Find the bolt for the rear seatbelt, take it out, sand down the paint, use that. Otherwise I JL makes a plug you could feed the ground wire under the truck and go to the frame.

 

this one?
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/jlaudio/jlaudio001 016.jpg

I found the rear seat bolts (attached). looks like the amount of wire I will need is about the same as I would need to reach the battery neg. hopefully I have enough (taking from the air set-up) 4g. to make it, if not I'll just get the plug (when I do install the other amp, can I ground it in the same place the 1st amp is or would I have to find a similar/better spot? btw, do you happen to know what size the bolt is for the rear seat belt?

 

That's the plug!

Your amp looks like its under the seat, you can use the bolts the seats use to bold down. Anything that's a good solid piece of metal with no paint will do the trick. Short grounds are better if you can wing it.

 

SWEET!!! hope this fixes the problem.

 

definitely a ground issue. As i recall, for a amp ground you should not exceed 18'' if it can be helped.

 

I've always been told under 3ft for ground. Either way a good ground point is a must!

 

I want to reiterate the reasons this is a poor ground. One, the paint on the metal of the truck isn't sanded down. You're not actually contacting metal at all and paint doesn't conduct electricity. Second, the screw you are using is coated in some sort of paint as well. So you're trying to conduct electricity between two NON CONDUCTIVE materials.

 

Did the ground fix the issue?

 

saw Italian's post and went from there really. I don't have the terminal size for the seat bolt. (thought I did ... hate my memory). So I went and sanded down the original spot more (best I could ). Also changed the bolt to an all metal one, found it in my tool box. The top is pretty beat, but the bottom area is fine, imo, should I grind at it a little just for the sake of it (so I don't have to do it all over and over ... lol)?

 

Well that's a improvement, but I'd still get it to a seat bolt. The metal you are using for a ground isn't the best to use.

Autozone/Checkers/Autoparts stores typically carry those terminal ends.

 

Added note--Are the terminals "crimped" and soldered, or just crimped?
Solder is BEST.