4wd binding bad with tires turned 15 degrees

I understand the logistics of the 4wd system binding but is it normal to bind with as little of wheel turn as 15 degrees? 09 access cab sr5 in 4hi

 

On pavement.. yes it's normal, should you do it? No..

This will turn in to a pretty quick

 

on dry pavement? I hope to hell not.

 

Is this on pavement? If the tire has no ability to slip and relieve bind, anything other than straight will eventually bind it up

 

Don't use 4wd on high traction surfaces...

 

with snow/ice over pavement and offroad. certainly not on dry pavement. My old TJ jeep with Dana's and 33's never had a bind this bad, wondering if cv's are going. I live in colorado, theyre terrible at clearing roads

 

Sounds like you have too much traction to use 4wd

 

how many miles? factory parts?

 

Try 2wd. If it doesn't bind and you still move, there's your issue.

 

Stock with 265/75r16's. 60k miles. It starts to bind offroad with as little as 10 degrees turn, no rubbing issues at all either offroad

 

Bingo

 

Yup you got an issue.

 

yea, like what kind of an issue? that was the reason for the thread

 

Your issue is you're using 4wd on a surface that doesn't require 4wd. When you turn and all 4 tires have good traction, the driveline will bind. It can happen in a slight turn since the tires are still moving at different speeds, it just wouldn't be as drastic as if you were making a sharp turn.

If you think there is an issue with your driveline, are there any noises or reason to think anything is broken?

 

There's a conventional wisdom running around that people should "always be in 4wd as soon as you leave pavement".


Horse shit.


Traction determines drive mode usage. I use 2WD on the trails all the time. It binds less, makes turning easier, and is less wear on the drivetrain. Hardpack dirt, graded dirt, gravel, flat rock...many "offroad" surfaces offer plenty of traction for 2wd to be sufficient. If you notice 2wd losing traction, then go to 4wd. Until then, it ain't broke...why are you fixing it?

 

He speaks the truth!

 

There's a reason 2Lo-Locked is a super popular drive mode for truggies.

 

Yeah. I'm sticking with my stock 4wd system til the actuator shits (which seems to be when rather than if when you wheel these trucks). ToMoCo wants ~$600 for a new actuator, but you can find FJ cases online for ~$400.

I guess what I'm getting at is, I'll get 2Lo when the actuator breaks at some point

 

im starting to wonder how hard it would be to get independent control of the two actuators. you could do it that way too, as long as they are both in good condition right? just wire in a separate switch for the diff actuator. boom!

 

That's exactly how it works when you put in a crawlbox and FJ case. FJ t-cases are manual shift, but you still have to wire the front diff ADD to a switch.

I'm not interested in hacking any of the stock wiring for reliability reasons. I'll just replace systems with better systems as necessary. The whole point would be to get away from these spotty actuators entirely.