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horsepower/gas mileage increase

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by eapple, Apr 3, 2013.

  1. Apr 12, 2013 at 10:10 PM
    #21
    F-125Racer

    F-125Racer Well-Known Member

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    Look in the Towing forum. 6 Cylinder Towing Review, It documents my towing experiences before and after S/C.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  2. Apr 12, 2013 at 10:20 PM
    #22
    VolcomTacoma

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    New Exhasut=Possible HP gains
    CAI= BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP

    Supercharge with the above 2=BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAP+Hp gains and hawtness.

    And crappy gas mileage because you can't keep you foot from going WOT
     
  3. Apr 13, 2013 at 8:47 AM
    #23
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    CAI=HP Gains and BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP
     
  4. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:21 AM
    #24
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Really? I mean, my butt dyno noticed a little bit more hp and alot more BRAAAAAAPPPP. But I thought most people said theres not any gains from them...

    One thing I just rearlized should help....I didnt clean my MAF when I installed the TRD CAI (1st gen model)...and one side of the MAF had a good layer of dust on it...also...I had to clean my throttle body a bit as well...the K&N drop in let sooooo much dust through! I know I'm gonna have to take off my TB and clean it... but do you guys think that TRD Exhaust +TRD Intake and adding the URD MAF Cal. would be the next step?
     
  5. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:26 AM
    #25
    Lucario Runner

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    I would go headers with the urd maf cal. that would be a good step.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013
  6. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:27 AM
    #26
    VolcomTacoma

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    shorties or long?
     
  7. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:31 AM
    #27
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    At the time of TRD intake install, did you disconnect the battery? That is a necessary step so that the ecu can relearn the new component. Also cleaning the throttle body, if it is really caked up, will help with idle, warm-up, and fuel efficiency. As the ecu has multiple steps it goes through during start-up and warm up.

    Your factory exhaust is a 2.5". The much earlier year models were 2.25". Yours is not the most restrictive part of the exhaust anymore. Unless you really want the TRD sound. Do the other components prior to the catback.

    If you look in the N/A link in my sig, you can see a variety of dynos with different mods. And how even simple mods can have good gains. :thumbsup:
     
  8. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:33 AM
    #28
    Lucario Runner

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    I have long tubes on mine.
     
  9. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:41 AM
    #29
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]


    Horsepower genie maybe Ebay has one.....
     
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    #29
  10. Apr 13, 2013 at 9:48 AM
    #30
    VolcomTacoma

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    Mine is not the factory exhasut as far as I know...i got the TX pro that had the TRD catback exhaust blah blah blah...But No, I was actually going to do the MAF clean and disconnect battery today...read it last night and realized that's what I forgot to do...

    As for cleaning the TB, I read there is a I-something valve under there to be careful of? If I remove the TB, are there reusable gaskets or anything under there, should I be buying new ones for the removal?
     
  11. Apr 13, 2013 at 10:06 AM
    #31
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    That's right. Yours came with the TRD catback. Forgot about that.

    The throttle body has a thick rubber gasket. It is reusable, so not to worry. Four 10mm bolts and the throttle body will be off. Just be mindful of the coolant lines attached to it.
     
  12. Apr 13, 2013 at 10:08 AM
    #32
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Awesome...got a good project then this week.

    Any recommendations for a good non-oiled filter for the TRD CAI? AFE I think makes the cone filter for that?
     
  13. Apr 13, 2013 at 10:11 AM
    #33
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Afe makes the Gen 1. They are plenty good. Those or if you can find and Injen/Amsoil filter that matches the diameter of the Afe filter. Otherwise, just stick with the Afe.
     
  14. Apr 13, 2013 at 10:12 AM
    #34
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Thanks man, totally appreciate it!
     
  15. Apr 13, 2013 at 10:13 AM
    #35
    Torspd

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    My pleasure mate.
     
  16. Apr 18, 2013 at 1:29 PM
    #36
    MojoTaco

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    Wut??! how much timing do you add....... :rolleyes:
     
  17. Apr 18, 2013 at 2:06 PM
    #37
    Torspd

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    Depends on how good at tuning one is. Depends on if you can datalog. Depends on the fuel used.
     
  18. Apr 18, 2013 at 2:14 PM
    #38
    Torspd

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    Toyota made their Open Loop tune SUPER safe. Example: Between 10inHg and atmosphere, my AFR's (OEM ECU) are between mid 10's to low 11's. I haven't looked to see what the timing is for that rpm/load range.

    Either way, I could save gas by leaning out those areas to low - mid 12's. While still being perfectly safe. That alone would increase hp and gas mileage
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013
  19. Apr 18, 2013 at 7:56 PM
    #39
    worthywads

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    If Open Loop is WOT then it's not gonna mean good mpg even if it's slightly leaner. Closed loop is a better place to be for mpg other than DFCO.
     
  20. Apr 18, 2013 at 8:21 PM
    #40
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Yes and no. Open loop does not strictly mean WOT. I have a video showing when the vehicle can go into Open Loop. Usually around 33% plus thottle position.

    The point with that, is that there is a large range of load/rpm cells which could be optimized for better performance. In the AFR range I mentioned before. But clearly with an aftermarket EMS.

    Where the factory ecu would would have open and closed loops, a quality aftermarket would have continuous control. Basically always in closed loop.

    Even on the less high end models, you can still refine the open loop table's cells and make refinements. Have a nice progressive increase from 14.7 at low load, to 12-12.5 at 100% load.

    Then with careful runs and datalogging, you could carefully adjust timing. Paying special attention to the knock sensors in the datalogs, and making sure that any timing added isn't causing knock.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2013

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