My attempt @ a 2 to 3 drop ... ... more or less...

EXACTLY what I am going for as well. I'm trying to get a little poke but not so much that it looks like I'm rolling flower pots. I'm assuming this is about 0.5" from the fender (attached image). With the offset of the truck (+45 rims I would DEF need at least 0.5" to 1.0" spacer to get some poke but not that much, I have been looking also at the other trucks (Noelsmykuya, slammedtacoma, and yours) trying to gauge how diff offsets will look/etc. etc. I do know that I want some lip to my rims, can't get enough of that, saw the concave 17's on that one base SC ... eh, prob better if there were side shots of it. Still with some thinner tires and 18's I can have the frame on the floor (given that I do notch the rear and plate the front bump stop bulge - not sure why no one mentions that you will need to hack that off to get the front lower or if you have the DJM front kit, other attached image - Kelsons Base SC).

 

Yeah i definitely see what you saying thats what ime tryna go for however that first pic a lil too much for my taste i like the look of the a tire with sidewalk like a 245//45 or 235/45 look when stretch it makes a wide looking tire vs stretching on a 215/40 like most cars where the tire still looks skinny and its just all rim
Noelsmykula has a very aggressive set up which pokes a lil so he will need to roll and slight pull
Slammedtacoma is running 18x8 i believe on 255/45/18 which isn't aggressive its very similar to his old runner wheels no poke issues everything tucks
My 20x9 +20mm tucks nice in the front though id want to put like a 5-10 mm space to just make a more flush look the 20x10 +35 is literally flush straight down my fender and if i starched it on 245/35/20 id be able to get away with just rolling no pulling This is a good place to compare stretch and offset its what I've been using

Im looking at doing either 18x9.5 +22 or +12 on 225/45/18 which will look soothing like this and be slightly short tire to help me not rub so much when i make turns (245/35/20= 26.7")(215/70/15=26.8")(225/45/18=25.9")


if i run a +12mm offset it will give a nice poke on the rim and the stretch will allow me to still tuck it in the fender

if i run a 245/45/18 on a 18x10.5 +22 i will definitely get that fatty look however whats stopping me is that the tire is stock height about 26.7 which will prolly leave me still rubbing



I know the tire looks tall and what not but like i said i dig a tire with lil more sidewall stretched since it makes the tire look wider and gives a wide aggressive look as compared to a 215/40 0r 235/35 stretch on a 10.5 where it just looks like a huge rims and small tires its just the way i see it but i really would like to have wheel have a .5" poke like u said and have the tire fit under the fender creating a nasty looking taco!!!!
Due to my drop height I'm nt worried about tire gap since the front seems to be sayum well flush or slightly inside and changing thee tire ill prlly gain about .4"from the fender which after a stretch will still prolly be pretty dayum close to being inside he and tucking

 

lol, it's cool man. Thanks for the link. My brother is like that, when he gets home I'll snap a shot of his Evo. I'm more of a rim type person ... mainly praying that my theories on the offset and such are correct or I'm gonna be a little pissed for a yr. lol.

I did some research and the OE Murano's I have are 18x7.5 w/+35mm offset. So this pretty much leaves me about 1.0/1.5". from a poke (since 18x8's fit ... like they do). I'm still working off of a 35 mm offseft (worried if I get something else all hell will break loose and I'm fvcked). I'm still in debate about 18's or 17's now. I saw some on a taco while on a run to pick up my nephew. Didn't look too bad and some nice stretch, but .... ... not really the style I was looking for lol. I want to get low, but not oober low where I'm sparking lights everywhere I go.

 

Yeah like don't get me wrong stretch looks nuts!! But for me daily driving on Hawaii roads I can't have too much cuz I might bend the lip on a hole
Brah I say 18 and yeah try a spacer but that link I sent really is helping me decide what wheel I want to run

No worries I run em dropped low never got bothered yet hahah

 

SSSSSSTTTTAAANNNCCCEEE!~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ going for something like this. since I'm going to be bagging the rest of it, I want to have a nice slam and then enough to get my happy ass home

 

jizz!!!! hold on lemme go wipe up haha naw naw
thats a nice edit there just having all four rims would really make a difference i hate looking at these ugly ass skinny stocks
Yeah I'm going for something similar i just gotta notch bring that ass down and ill be happy
Rajah i see you with the bags you gonna custom make all your control arms and notch??

 

LMAO and I thought mine were bad I like them rims you picked out (would get them for mine but my older brother has some like that on his Evo, they are XXR's though ... asshole still hasn't come back ).

I found some peoples that can weld and are mobile (thank goodness - BEFRIEND a stunt rider ). I was thinking of making some adjustable arms, but I don't know anyone with a bender, but all I would need to do to fix the camber issue is move the UCA's up one inch from OE height (also cut out some of the brackets for arm clearance). The notch, I'm going to have to do that in order to get the right height I want when slammed ... also you have to if you wanna get that "stance" and be low enough.

 

Gotcha !!!
many sounds like a nice (pricey) build but what build isn't really haha
definitely wanna see how that goes though also with a hellaflush style bagged out taco sounds dreamy!!!

Ima just stick with a static slammed hellaflush taco cops hassle too much down here with guys running bags

 

been kind of sick lately. not sure what I got, but it's not fun (weezing here and there, but no fever or headaches - a little sneezing and some mucus but ... I'm assuming it's just my allergies peeking again)

I have been getting asked a lot (via friends ... just people I meet and talk to about things) about my camber solution. As I posted before (inthabloodICA fix), to adjust camber on the front would be to move the uca up 1" from the OE location; NO GOOD if you are static.

(Attached photos)
Here we see the DJM uca in comparison to the OEM uca. Looking at the OEM uca, you can see with this design there is a problem if you move the uca up. You can see how the bottom of the spring perch of the shock hits the uca the lower you go. So even if you were to do this mod, you wouldn't be able to get the uca back on or working properly since the spring gets wider at the top, like a cone.

So then I started to think even more about all this. Solution, thinking back to my lowrider days (can't believe I didn't think of this before hand either), the trick to getting that front camber (which is funny cause it's just opposite of the JDM camber lmao) is to extend your ucas. What they do is basically cut about ... however much they want it to camber and add in a strip to the ucas. lol, NO ... I'm not going to be doing that because I still need to make sure that the camber setting is at least close to normal. My list

Four - 4 link bar bungs
Four - Heim joints
EIGHT - end spacers

*Take OEM uca, cut off bar ends, weld in bungs, attach heim joints (adjust for positive camber), use spacers to keep uca(s) aligned.

 

Yeah I agree cuz mine springs were sitting on my UCA with my drop but I turned the coils a little now I have clearance but I think if I moved the UCA up lil more possibly it would clear but not totally sure

 

in the picture (1st of the uca comps), you can see where the perch was resting basically on the uca. what sucks about the spring, it tapers? wide up top and gets all small at the bottom. If you have the DJM arms your fine (flip a couple pages back, you will see Ryan's picture of his drop, I think he had spindle spacers in too). You will clear, but the way your arms are designed, I am not sure if they will keep with the positive camber (keep in mind that they were meant to keep positive camber at a 3" drop), you might get too much positive camber.

 

Well when I did my drop which is the DJM and xii performance 1.7 inch drop coils for some reason my driver side coil sat on top my UCA and my passenger side had about the gap of my finger in between but I put the truck up and tried turning the coil on the strut which worked and now I have more Klearance on the driver side but barely

Ryan has -3 degrees camber I got mines to -.8 which is much better on my tires so yeah I was thinking of moving the UCA lil higher to allow the control arm to sit more level giving me more clearance but we will see later in the future

 

really? thought they would have addressed an issue like that I would mock up if anything before/thinking of doing it. I measured the spring (OE) diameter, it's like 4.5" round, somewhere around that (was trying to see if a 4" air cylinder would fit up front).

 

me trying to be cool next to an XR from the looks of it though I am pretty close to stock height in the back compared to the XR. In the front I'm like just a "tad" bit lower.

 

in lue (sp/grammar) of my run in with this one POS lady, got my driver fender aligned a little and fixed the headlight somewhat. found the piece that got broken off (was still on when I removed the headlight thankfully) and will try to get it plastic welded back on so it won't offset itself.

 

on Sunday I have to mod the OE battery hold down so that I can fit it for the new Bosch battery I got (on the OE batteries, there is a slit in the middle, with the Bosch battery i got, it does not have this so the OE battery hold down has problems ... "fitting" the way it should on the battery). Will be posting pics when I finish.

 

here goes the battery hold down mod I did. didn't turn out that bad either.
In the first and second picture, you can see (hopefully) the dry rot in the hold down. The next one is of how the hold down tore. I put the original hold down in place on top of the battery to show how it will not reach to the other side correctly for the other j hook to fit into like it should (on the spot welded j hook, it's too short). the close up shot is of where the j hook was welded ... I'm not really even sure it was welded on ... might have been lead welded or something cause when I got off the j hook, it looked as if all I had to do was heat it up and I could have taken the j hook out.

The following images are of the j hook free from the hold down brake/bar. I then took the rubbed hold down and used a hd knife to cut off the ends and reused the middle portion, placing it under the metal brace/bar. The plastic washers I grinded down some so that the holes were aligned. Next two shots are of the damage I did last is the final result. I had to swap out the wing nuts for w/e I could find in the house (lucky me I found some nylon lock washers that fit perfectly into the new j hooks).

 

Bro where you been ?? Any updates ?
Gotta see dat progress doe

 

been in some hell lately. lost my pad, but still hanging in there. as of now just mainly picking up where I left off. Getting the camber fixed pretty soon too. Hopefully will be able to get in pictures.

 

Dayum sorry to hear that man hope shit works out better for you