Fox coilover + lift block?

I wish I could do a SAS that would be legit. I have a 6" DB right now, just debating whether to do a full 6'' icon coil over for $1200 bucks or do a 3" fox coil over with a spacer for $750..

 

see my post above.

3" fox coilover will be a stock length coilover with the ability to add preload to the coil, adding up to 3" of lift.
it will be a 6" coilover.

 

I'm running a 6" db, tuff country 6'' spindles, toytec upper control arms, bilstein 5100's adjusted to about 3'' and 3'' puck.

 

so you have the bilsteins adjusted all the way up?
that's why your ride is shit
on top of the db, it's also probably the reason you're breaking the,

 

They're adjusted on the second maybe third setting giving me about 3" plus the puck which I cut down from 6'' to 3''. It was originally the stock coil overs with a 6'' puck. I figured combining the bilstiens and half the puck would give me a better ride, but has probably made it worse haha. I don't think the shocks have enough downward movement.

 

Heres a pic of what I have done 3 times :/
I was running this on the bottom 0'' setting with the full 6'' spacer which prompted me to cut the spacer and mover the setting up

 

...which is why you broke the fuck out of that shock

so you modified the components of the original lift? you're messing with the entire geometry of the lift now


adding lift from the preload of the coils DOES NOT make the shock any longer. using it with the spacer meant that your bump stops were completely useless;

the shock needed travel to handle the movement of the suspension. you added preload to the coil to compensate, causing the shock to have no down travel. on top of the spacer.....

instead of compression being stopped by the bump stop, the shock took the pressure. hence broken neck


you need to either replace that whole thing with a coilover that will be long enough, or get another 6" spacer...you shouldn't have messed with the spacer if you didn't know what you were doing

 

I think I am just going to spend the money and get the full length Icon 6'' coil overs..

 

IIRC, you need 8" coilovers to be long enough to get rid of the spacer.

 

You can never go wrong by spending a little extra money to do it right.

On a side note, OP, you really need some local help man. No offense but you clearly don't know what you're doing. You should frequent your local regional thread and make some local friends, go to meets, etc.

 

Why 8" coil overs? If I was running stock struts with 6" spacer and had my 6" lift, don't I just need a 6" coil over?

 

6" = stock

you need a longer coilover if you're going to replace the spacer.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/142677-suspension-lift-info-includes-pics.html
take a look here


the lift isnt coming from the spacer. the spacer is compensating for the fact that now the drop bracket has pushed the truck up.

 

Eeeww gross

 

I think he means the icon shock for 6 inch lifted applications. Down south Motorsports has the option to go with the oem length coil-over or the one that is used with 6 inch drop bracket lifts. It is still a 6 inch travel coilover like stock but it also has a 6 inch extended rod on the bottom of the shock.
OP could then have no preload on the coil-over and still get the full 6 inches with the best ride using no additional spacers

 

just making sure he knows since he's been referring to the fox as 3" coilovers

which would be some tiny coilovers haha

 

Ok so got the icon 2.5s for my 6" lift today!! Anyone know if there is a L/R side for these things? The top plate is different on the, looks like its flipped on one of them if that makes sense. Neither places the charging valve straight out. The top plate pivots, should I angle it towards the front or back??

 

So here's what I'm talking about. Notice how the coil over is rotated towards the front of the truck. Is this ok? Should I drill new holes in the mounting bracket so it faces in the center? Only reason I am worried is because the top plate pivots, and I don't want it facing at the wrong angle!

 

If you really want to "do it right", do a SAS. Good ride, maximum flex, least likely to break stuff, and best option for your nearby Moab.

Why is that out of the picture?

 

Maybe he doesnt have $8000 to do it properly