I'm tired of blowing out fuses

Is that ring terminal your using 75% rusty or is that something else? If rust replace it and if that screw shaft is sloppy I'd get an actual nut /bolt/lock washer and sand the bottom of the truck as well, also in the amp pic both black and white speaker wires look like they are cut and the black one looks awful close the the frame of the amp. I'd redo that as well. Once you're satisfied with the grounds paint over them. At least the underside one.

 

It didn't look to me like the speaker wire insulation is entirely intact on whatever is bridged between channel 3 and 4 as well.

 

Also... this doesn't look too good.



The lug stuck inside the clamp is preventing the bolt from getting a solid clamp on the post.
The truck is starting and charging, so it's making contact, but that's not good.
I'd look into something similar to what you have on the positive terminal.

 

not rust, think it's some kind of paint (my hands sweat a lot - I have egsima (sp), would put on gloves but that's like putting a sock over some sweaty feet ). the terminals to the amp are shaped like a triangle. I made sure all of the connections were in there though. The frame or what have you is plastic. When I paint over them, is it okay to use rubberized paint? I found this one in a spray can looks SICK.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...ack-Spray-Paint-248657/202097745#.UXQqo7W0J8E

there was a little area where you could test spray the product, sprays on kind of thick'ish but I am guessing that was layer after layer... not sure how many people tested it before I got to it lol. But seems like it would be a good idea.

I'm not sure what you mean by that.

I was SOOO close to getting the neg. terminal that matched this one, but it was out of stock by the time I got funds for it. At most I'd like to keep it same/similar. I did that as a temp but it's become more than that at this time I don't really know who makes the pos terminal, I was on eBay and found some similar, but they didn't have what I was looking for connection wise (all I need is two for the top and one for a 4g so I don't have to put all these wires everywhere trying to make up the 4g - that was the intention ... guess it didn't work out as well as I thought it would).


on a side note, would it be okay for me to put some grease on the gnd connections within the cab (like how I did with the battery terminals)? Since there's going to be panels on top covering ... no? yes? curious mainly.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36369_Xscorpion-BTRP.html

was looking at this one. looks like it would match the pos terminal I have.

while searching the site I found this too

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36367_Xscorpion-DBT024RP.html

 

This or GRND it to the bolt that holds the seat down which is what I did. You want to keep ur return/GRND as short as possible.

 

I think you're popping fuses because your wire is so damn big. That big gauge wire has very very little resistance and allows for huge current flow. Seeing as you don't need that HUGE amount of current flow you can limit the circuit by using slightly smaller gauge power cable. I use much smaller power and ground for my 1000 watt amp and haven't ever popped a fuse or had any problems what so ever.

 

that's what I was shooting for when I put the gnd where it was. looking at it more I'm getting annoyed at how I left it. I want to redo it all and make it look nice.

lol, sorry I had intended to put in more things too (another amp and 2 air compressors ... still doing but ... yeah). It's working normally ... from what i can see, but would like to clean up the install more and get the connections right so I don't have to deal with this again later down the road.

 

No.

He could use power company transmission cable and the circuit is not going to draw more power than it needs.
Blowing fuses is because of a poor connection or short circuit.

 

I agree except if it were a dead short you would blow the fuse as soon as power was applied to the circuit. Im leaning towards the poor connection somewhere in the chain.

 

I would also try and clean up the terminals maybe try something diff as you have just posted. I went with multi lug single blocks for mine and they are a nice no solder type and make for easy terminations.

 

Second one, there ya go.
My concern on the first one is the strength of the threads, and how well it will hold up under vibration. There's no compression fitting for the engine ground cable. I'd be worried that it would be a "tighten weekly" kind of thing, and eventually, it's going to strip out. It is "platinum plated"... platinum plated what?

 

It looks like the speaker wire insulation was nicked while stripping the outer jacket. It's not inconceivable that while driving, this is grounding on something momentarily. It probably isn't, but should be cleaned up anyway.

 

I'm going to go with the bad connection or a nicked wire. How did you go through the firewall? Is it in a grommet? Did it get pinched somewherealong the way? Whatever you do don't go any bigger than about an 80 amp fuse on that set up....you gonna burn something up as in truck is on fire burn something up.

 

One more thing where do the two blue wires coming out of your fuse block go to? Looks like they both go back to 12v+ post?

 

Thanks for clearing this up, I'm so used to my wife never listening I did not check back till now!

 

On the front rail of the front seats there is a threaded unused hole that is 6mmx1.0 (10mm bolt) that you can use as a ground. Driver side has a metal cover covering the abs or airbag connection. use that location as a ground.

 

Also upgrading the ground from battery to engine block to 0gauge so you can eliminate one of those fender grounds or both that you added.

 

DEFINITELY GOING TO FIND THIS. hopefully there is also the same on the pass side.

 

took care of this. re cut the wires so that there's nothing exposed. saving up for some of them shrink wrap things and some loom (but I'm trying to get orange ones - both wraps and loom).