Who thinks 285/75/17 will fit with my setup?

For the past 50,xxx miles I have run 285/70/17 on my stock TRD Sport wheels with Spidertrax spacers. My setup is approx 2-2.25" lift in the front with LR UCAs and a good bit of plastic trimmed (mudflaps removed), no CMC. Ive been happy with this setup but I am now shopping for new tires and that has me looking at new wheels as well. I have decided on the SCS Steal 6 wheels and Toyo open Country A/T II tires. I cannot decide if I want to go "safe" with the P285/70/17 (32.8" diameter, 13/32" tread depth, Load rated C??, and 65,000 mile warranty) or LT285/75/17 (33.9" diameter, 17/32" tread depth, Load rated E, and 50,000 mile warranty).

So my changes will be: wheel placement & width (removing spacers but going with 4.3" BS which will land the outside of the wheel about 1/2" further outboard and I believe the inside should stay the same, tire diameter (width stays the same except it is stretched a bit more going on a 1" wider wheel but the radius that will be the conflict between tire and suspension/cab mount will increase approx 1/2".

This truck is used strictly ON road so it NEVER fully articulates at full lock. I will cycle my steering when I get home tonight but I would like to know what you all (the pros) think about the increase in tire size.

A search was performed and I read until my eyes started bleeding with no luck.

 

Not sure if you can get away with a 34" tire with 2" of front lift, maybe with glass..

 

Its going to hit metal on compression. The plastic can be trimmed easily. The metal is a bit harder. With LR UCA you can add 1 degree of caster instead of 2 that a uniball does and save a little space. Cab mount chop, pinch weld hammer, removal of mud flaps cutting bottom mud flap metal mount point, etc. are all necessary. You can say its a street truck that does not compress all you want but the fact is every time you turn in to a steep parking lot entrace at some speed its going to compress and rub.

With all that done, it will still be tight. The rear depends on your spring type, u bolt type, bump type, etc. Trimming is not a big deal in the rear.

 

I did some cycling of the steering last night. At static ride height I have all the clearance necessary for the larger size tire. In compression, as stated by other posters, it appears that there will be some obstacles..most of which I don't mind dealing with. The one I am concerned with comes from DevL relating to caster. I'm unclear of that comment about adding one degree of caster instead of two. I don't recall my alignment settings (it's been three years!) but I do know that I was hoping to get a little more caster with my next alignment to help with the slight wandering that my truck exhibits. I suppose more caster will get the tire closer to the UCA at full lock???

Thanks for the replies. I will try to find a tire shop that stocks both sizes or will bring in both sizes and work with me to determine what I want to go with.

 

Go with the 34's worst that can happen is you need a BFH to persuade some metal into the proper place ie pinch weld and maybe cmc too. But since you're always on road you may get away without it.

 

I'm going with the 285/75/17's as my next tire, going to have to do a little more trimming.

 

Are you sure the Toyo ATII come in a C load 285/70/17?

 

That is why I placed the question marks there. I'm not sure of the load rating of the "P" version of this tire. I have all but elimited the "P" version however due to the fact that I can get the "LT" version that gives me 23% deeper tread (hopefully translating into longer tire life) for 20% more cost.

Lets focus on the topic, fitment of the larger tire size. Load Range can be discussed in another thread without cluttering this one.

 

NP. I run the Stealth 6 wheels on 2.5-2.8" of front lift with LR UCA's and LT265 70 17. I rarely flex my suspension hard and my tires quickly ripped off my flaps this winter in marginally adverse conditions. If your caster is up around 2.5, I would expect to get some rubbing on the Cab Mount with a 34" tire. Perhaps it might come down to how much rubbing you are willing to accept.

 

I'm running a 295/70/17 and they do rub at full lock, although these arewider and shorter than what you're considering running. Go for it. I'd like toknow what you had to do after the fact to minimize rubbing. I'm going to need new tire later this year

 

I'm willing to remove whatever plastic and/or metal to clear the tires as I have already removed a good bit of plastic to fit the 285/70/17. I can't remove the UCA though and I'm not willing to compromise good alignment numbers just to fit the larger tire.

I have ordered my wheels so once I receive them I'll talk to my local Toyo dealer to work on the tire size. I'll follow up with my findings.

I can't be the only one of us that has wanted to run this tire size and there has to be someone around here that is running it...come on Tacomaworld

 

Where do you rub at full lock? Just on the plastic parts? How close to the Cab Mount and Upper Control Arm do you get?

 

The guy with the White Taco and Matte Black Stealth 6's is running a 305 or 315 width tire. Not sure of his user name, but I am sure Vin would relay it so you could fire him a pm

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/wheels-tires-marketplace/238505-scs-stealth-6-wheels-17x8-5-a.html

 

Normally caster is added by movinv the lca forward. This adds space as it moves the wheel forward at rest. Uca adds cadter by moving thr upper rearward. This moves wheel rearward. To fit large 285/70r17 I had to go with over 3 degree caster because my uca added 2 degree caster and moved the wheel too far to rear. As you correct camber for more lift you lose caster. The lca will be maxed out at 1.X degree caster and adding only 1 degree at uca is enough while moving the uca back as little as possible.

 

Thanks for all the input on this idea but I have decided to abort the 285/75 project and just go with 285/70. They are cheaper and lighter. In addition, I am currently trying to sell a Corvette and purchase a Jeep that is 2300 miles away so I don't really have time to perform the work necessary to clear the 34" tire.

 

I've cut plastic. No issue there. I rub upper control arm mostly and frame at the cross member weld. I dont rub on the cab mount. I intend to replace my upper control arms with LR upper arms at some point which should help.