New England B.S. Thread

Make your own! It's much cheaper to buy metal stock and make em the way you want em

 

Is that a luggage rack on the back of that vette?

 

Same ones I have! You'll love them, at least I love mine. I have everything I want for a lift EXCEPT ome coils and tc UCA's...

 

Sweet!! I'm excited for more flex!

I just need Superflex rear coils and some 885's for the front. Might keep the 5100's up front and set them at the lowest position. I love how they handle! Might go with a MT front shock though, not sure. I need some UCAs too. Mine contact the spring now at full droop

 

i forget you need coils in the ass end too... wonder if you could make JK coils work?

i like my 5100s too, they are great for what i need. an MT coilover would be overkill for me. im torn between TC and camburg UCA's though.

 

Nah we have big fat coils in the rear. I'd rather get Toyota specific coils. They aren't that expensive.

I probably would stick with the 5100's up front but the icon/radflo/fox coilovers look so awesome! I want something that can easily handle 3" springs

I like the camburg UCAs too, but I hear a lot of negative things towards the uniball. I might consider the total chaos ones with the heim joints for uber alignment

 

Uniball is a solid setup as long as you keep on top of them.

 

And stainless steel balls. No one likes rusted and pitted balls

 

I had rusted balls I pressed them out and upgraded to stainless

 

I think I might need new rear shocks. Especially the rear passenger. Every time I went over a bump it sounds like the tire was slamming the ground.

 

Mine does that too. *bumpTHUD*

 

I'm the king of not maintaining shit until it breaks

 

That's called repairing, not maintaining...

 

Hummm, this past weekend seems to have taken my driver side lower ball joint. Is it a pain to replace? Or should I do a whole new lca?

Just looking for a little advice.
I see that Moog makes a lower ball joint for $26 but I don't have a press or large pitman arm pullers. I expect the right tools and the work to press it back it in may cost more than a Replacement LCA $138 and I have all tools for the new lca and can sell the core to folks looking to rebuild a spare. Does that seem right?
David

 

One thing to consider is that your LCA bolts could be rusted to the LCA bushing, meaning they would have to be cut out.

The good thing about replacing the whole LCA is that you get new ball joints and bushings.

 

If I had a alignment under a month ago would that tell you anything about its condition?

 

If the setup is the same from gen 1, the lower ball joints take no time at all and won't ruin your alignment.

 

Depends on if they loosened the LCA bolts to align the truck or just set the toe and that's it. If the LCA bolts seized, they wouldn't be able to adjust the alignment using the LCA bolts.

 

From what can see it is a completely different bracket setup.

Okay. Great! They def adjusted it 3 times that day for camber and caster. LCA is gonna get replaced! The loud Pop and clunk has to go... Is it best to do both sides around the same time? I am not seeing the same wear or movement on the passenger side.

 

The ball joint mounts upside down to another piece that connects it to the spindle. It can be pressed out and a new ball joint pressed in it's place. The only reason I suggested the whole LCA is because if the ball joint is shot, chances are the bushings aren't doing great. If you replace the whole LCA, you will definitely need a new alignment.

Your call on the passenger side, if the ball joint is tight, it shouldn't need replacing.

BTW, where did you find a complete LCA for $138 and are you sure it has a new ball joint and bushings? I'm assuming they're not OEM lowers?