Bed Rack idea...

Oh and ordered stuff from ors.com (Onion River Sports). A few items from eGay

 

Got my control towers and 66" load bars mounted tonight. Slick setup and lock cylinders are really cool. Inno tire only racks going on tomorrow.

 

This is exactly what I want to do. I have a BAKFlip tri-fold cover on now and want to put this type of rack over it. I figure I don't even need to move the q-towers on the track but just release 1 side from the landing pads and hinge it up when I want to fold up the cover. I am actually planning on using the roof track from an old Cherokee since I have all the yakima parts for that track already and new landing pads and a track will cost me over $300.

My real question is, do you think there is any way to do this with plastic covers still on? I was thinking about taking the covers off and using tape to plan where to put the screws and then replace the cover and screw it the track on through both the plastic cover and the actual bed frame. I just think this will look a lot cleaner. Thoughts?

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing, from what I've seen Theres no reason it shouldn't work.

 

My plan is to add a BakFlip as well. I only left about 1/2" of bed rail on inside of tracks so I'm not sure if that's enough or if trimming the cover's mounting lip would be an option.

 

Anyone with BakFlip able to measure the overlap of cover onto bed rail ?

 

I applaud your ingenuity and that's a great mod. I'm a little late, but I see some of the other people doing the same as you and I have some advise that could save you all some time and money.

You don't have to remove them and keep them off in order for them to take weight without crushing.

Here's what you can do in an hour for a couple bucks to solve the issue:
1) Remove rail caps
2) wash and clean them underneath
3) fill them with DOW 795 black (let cure a couple days)
4) hold rail cap upside down next to rail and mark for holes with pencil
5) install rail cap
6) drill holes through cap and rail
7) remove rail cap
8) install hardware
9) install rail cap and track system

The 795 will take a load as it is structural silicone, but it still remains flexible and isn't rock hard so it won't rub through the paint as quickly as a urethane type product. This should keep the rail from deforming under weight. As soon as my bed rack hardware gets here Ill be doing the same to mine. Ill do a DIY when I get it done and throw a link here.

 

Nice setup 6spdtaco and Airun. I looked on Yakimas site, but they do not have any tech stats on the weight capacity of their towers and such. I have absolutely no idea how sturdy these are, but I am assuming that they are not strong enough for a roof top tent?? Any ideas?

 

They are much stronger than any factory rack that vehicle manufacturers put on their roofs. In post #4 you'll see a pic of a RTT on the exact same setup. I found the pic over on the Expo forum. My eventual plan for the system was to have a RTT on there. Just never got around to spending all the money on the tent!

 

How wide are the tracks? I am thinking about this with my access bed cover

 

I've been thinking about this for a while but id really like to keep the bed rail caps on anyone do it like that?

 

Nice. I am glad you knew it was a RTT as I had no idea. Now I have a direction to move in... Thanks!!!

 

Update: Going on year and a half with my rack over BakFlip setup and its been AWESOME!




Just a few pics to demonstrate versatilility and utility of set-up.

 

old thread but i can answer some questions. you can attach the Yakima universal rails on top of the plastic caps. Mark and drill a small pilot hole in each spot, then i used thick stainless steel sheet metal screws. make sure all the screws are snugged down into the sheet metal of the bed tight. Be careful the screws need a flat head so you can slide the rail cleats up and down the tracks. Once the screws and rack system are tight it will support my weight, the basket, and hi-lift (prob almost 300 lbs all together) with no problem at all.

Yes, the roll up cover can be rolled up with everything in place, you have to slide the cover and bars under everything then roll the cover up. takes a minute or two but it can be done.

Here is my parts list for anyone that is curious about this setup.
-Yakima 60 inch tracks (new off ebay $95)
-Yakima 66 inch crossbars cut to length (used off ebay $60)
-Yakima railrider 1 towers (new old stock off ebay $48) Yakima does not make the "railrider" towers anymore, they replaced them with "control towers", they are much more expensive. i believe you need the "control towers 1 when you use the universal tracks.)
-Yakima loadwarrior basket (local camping/outdoor store $220)
-2 Yakima snaparounds (free from the guy at the camping store)

I did this for around $430, all new from Yakima or in store I would be around $550.

This setup is so versatile and useful. I use it for my ocean kayak, Hi-lift, basket full of camping gear or firewood, and the bed is still wide open.

I attached some pictures of the system close up and one with everything off, you don't even notice the Yakima tracks.

 

Nice stick shifty. I considered same thing but wanted to be able to put back stock. Not sure why, I plan on driving the wheels off.

Edit: and these rack systems do Nickel and dime u to death with tracks, landing pads, towers, lock cyls, bars etc

 

dang, pretty cool idea! I like it

 

yes they do, reason i went with Yakima was because it was a little less expensive then Thule, and I liked the Yakima basket better. But Yakima and Thule are expensive for what you are getting. The crossbars for example are metal tubes with a rubber coating on them and they cost about $100, insane!!

 

just buy 2 new bed rail caps. no ones going to look under them for the rusty ass holes you left

Be sure to reinforce your plastic bed rails if you have weight on them. If not expect rust and crushed bed rails soon. I filled mine with caulk to make them solid.

 

Looks awesome but how do you mount the Kayak to it?