How are you Tacoma Frame holding up?

Has anyone ever tried OSPHO prior to Rustoleum paint?

PK

 

My frame and whole under carriage is nothing but rust. Not a single inch of te so called coating left anywhere.

Mine will be rusting through at some point. Never had a truck with rust this bad for Chicagoland winters.

Major points for toyota to fix.

Frame coating or the steel composition itself
Rear Springs
Driveline vibes
Out of spec front diff/bearing

I can deal with the rest of the ticky tack issues.

 

x2, except mine is an '06. You can buy a wire brush attachment for your drill and get most of that off, the use a hand brush as necessary for the parts you can reach with the drill brush, then paint with rustoleum.

In the PNW you are unlikely to get enough rust for it to ever be a problem for the lifetime of the vehichle, unless you live on the coast and drive on the beach a lot, or are up in the mountains every day during the winter. Even so, we don't even use pure granular salt on the roads here -- we spray brine or chemical deicer, both of which are way easier on cars and trucks.

 

Have it professionalyy undercoated if you are looking to stop/ prevent rust. had mine done for 200 dollars. He power steamed the whole underside of my truck, then undercoated everything but the tranny and driveshaft.

 

Did you ended up painting your frame with the rustoleum. I mean if its never going to be a problem for the lifetime of the truck I'm tempted to just leave it.

 

I went to Line X the one over here in Fife to see how much they charge to undercoat. They said $250 does that sound reasonable?

 

IMO there are serious issues with using Line-X as a undercoating. First one being if it does get a hole in it you can't see it and everything then rusts underneath the Line-X the whole time you think it's A-ok.

I would never put anything rubber or latex on a frame.

 

Is there a better way? Any suggestions? I want to take care of it if possible. I would like my truck to last a long time.

 

You folk have me thinking. I'd like to keep this truck for a while. I'm thinking my first mod is to jack it up and POR15 the entire frame while it's all shiny and new. If you've never used this stuff, you owe it to yourself to give it a good look. Usually you want to apply it to bare metal, but I was talking with their rep and he said to give the whatever the hell surface coating Toyo uses on their frames a good scuffing and apply two thin coats. Should hold up just fine. If you spray it, use a good mask because once it's on it's there to stay.

 

I don't find a lot of rust on mine after winter but what I do I hit with a wire brush then some solvent, then I hit it with rust reformer in a can, then hit it with some rattle can black paint as needed.

It looks pretty good under there.

 

This weekend will be the 4th spring in a row I sand mine down and paint it.

Ill be brushing on a rust reformer before I prime & paint this year in hopes for better results.

 

Einstein defined insanity as doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result. Before you do this again, seriously check out POR15. I've had that stuff on my beat up (sorry about the heresy) Jeep skid plates for years and the paint (not the plates) looks shiny and new. Absolutely no rust!

 

I found a galvanizing company here that has a tank that will accommodate a frame. Thinking about it.

 

Yeah I hear ya. I will probably leave it alone. Hopefully if it get bad enough Toyota will roll out the buyback program thingy like what they did with the 1st gen Tacoma.

 

Will POR 15 hold up to deep gouges?





Now picture what my my frame rails and sliders look like.

Whatever you coat them with Ill rub it off so why waste money on POR15?

Your skidz needed more use lol.

 

x2 I have this same issue. The entire underside of my rig is gouged to shit!

 

Hahaha! Nothing holds up to the gouges. That shit you gotta deal with the regular way. Still it's shiny new and there's no rust at the regular places like the bolt holes or the under (over?) side where water, salt and that fuckin' magnesium chloride sits and eats everything else. For frames, where someone's paintin' the damn things every year because all the road crap eats everything else, POR15's the shits. Between time and material, it'll pay for itself in, like, the first time you do it.

 

After losing my first tacoma to rust I'm paranoid as all hell about my "new" taco. I'm going to vent for a second LOL... everyone told me I should be doing back flips for the money Toyota gave me but honestly it doesn't go very far with today's prices. Since I bought my first Tacoma my life went down the shitter, so was unable to take on a truck payment or put money down to hold a truck until Toyota cut loose with a check, but lost the loaner as soon as I got the check...so no wheels to go look. Working with just the buy back money I didn't know if I should get a newer truck with more miles or an older truck with less miles. Definitely wanted another Tacoma, but now reading posters talking about the same prob in newer Tacomas has me worried about my 07. Like another poster said, this one has to last awhile.

First thing I did when I brought my truck home last week was get under there with a wire brush and some rust eliminator, every speck freaked me out. I went ahead and ordered 2 quarts of POR 15, going the wire brush on the drill method and coat the shit out of it. Thinking of ways to blow that stuff inside of the frame LOL. Dumb question that I've been wondering about, should I remove or at least loosen any screws underneath before I coat with POR 15 or just paint over? Thanks and I appreciate you guys on the board! I'll take pics as I go.
Linda
PS I can't figure out how to put a pic of my truck under my name so here she is.

 

Notice how the rest your frame is fine but the cab mount is rusted? As a rule, anything exposed to road spray will rust much faster.

Solution? Do the cab mount chop while you are at it , then thoroughly coat the area with POR15 and black rust paint.

 

Hate to do this to you, but if you're working with bare metal you'll want to use their Metal Ready first. I was thinking about using their Chassis Coat spray for the areas I can't reach any other way. It's almost as permanent as the real stuff. I know, I know, I really drank the KoolAid on this stuff, but it really kills anything else I've ever used.

If you coat the threads of anything, it'll be hell getting it back together. If you coat, then retighten, it'll be hell getting the bolts back out.