Bilstein 5100 / Eibach Gallery

Mine dint look like they're at that much of an angle either

 

Anybody recommend a good uni-ball upper control arms? Was looking into all pro or cam burg

 

My truck with Toytec ultimate lift installed....wow what a PITA. Came out looking awesome though!

 

I'd pick camburg probably.

 

why you say PITA?

 

If your going to do this buy new ubolts is a must! I ended up just cutting mine off. It just took forever to get the whole lift done.

 

Your truck does look great. It took two of us about 14 hours to do the entire lift. The hardest part was removing the old ball joints off the upper control arms as we did not want to completely disconnect the spindle and use a press so we left it in place and removed them.

 

14 hours to do the lift? did i miss something, i just installed mine. 5100/eibach spring combo. took me roughly 3 hours to do front and rear.

front remove wheel, remove lower shock bolt, upper 3 bolts. sway bar end link, remove 4 lower balljoint bolts. secure coilover assembly with upper bolts finger tight. pry UCA downwards and line up the lower shock bolt. then use a jack from below the LCA and line it back up. torque bolt's and release jack. re-connect sway bar end link.

rear took even less time. jack truck up, remove bolt's from diff housing for hard lines/mount for brake line tree so it can "bend up some" and allow more diff sag. brush dirt out of u-bolt threads. little heat, penetrating lube. breaker bar and remove by hand. compress leaf springs together with c-clamp at front and back of differential. remove nut off centering pin. drop differential down, slip in your AAL. gently raise differential into place, leaf's will remain centered. may take a bit of tension to push it through. then reverse steps.

that's how i did mine. all on the ground with hand tools, first time working with a leaf spring in my life, i had tinkered with the front a bit before though.

 

Probably took that long if he lives in an area that uses a lot of road salt. Installing the lift on my truck was a PITA for the rear suspension. All the bolts were seized and required cutting off bolts and the bushings for the front eyebolts of the leafpacks were fused to the bolt.

 

I am from Maryland and the roads up here in the winter are terrible so that didn't help me any plus I didn't have anyone helping me that had done it before or anything and it took about 10 hours total.

 

I coated all the bolts for about a month with pb blaster and it still was a PITA. I hate road salt!

 

I am in NM and loosening bolts was easy using penetrating lube the night before. Did you install UCA's? that took about two hours. We did Dakar leaf packs with rear axle shim, not AAL. How about an extended brake line + bleeding and adjusting? Carrier bearing drop? We also installed Polyurethane steering rack bushings which took some time. Also we had to fabricate the bolt holes for the skid plates to get them to fit after the diff drop. No vibes on the truck. For me, it was not a race as my truck is my baby and wanted to allocate plenty of time to "lift it correct". However, congratulations on completing your project in a timely fashion.

 

I sprayed all bolts everyday for a week on my truck before I tore it apart. It was still a PITA. It's done now so it's not a big of a deal. I wouldn't look forward to doing it again until I replace the whole leaf pack once my AAL wears out. I would like to replace more bushings on the truck as it is ten years old. Little by little I guess. I did not replace the UCA's. since I had to buy tires and wheels I didn't want to spend more money then I already had to lift the truck and then add the wheels and tires. I want to do some more bushings and replaces the UCAs soon though. We will see how the alignment goes.

 

Yes, you did miss something. Changing the upper ball joints is a bitch.

 

roger.

 

Is anyone in here running this setup?

Bilstein 5100 Adjustables up front & Bilstein 5125's in back?

http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-9...5-series-rears-95-5-2004-pair-front-rear.html

 

If I am not mistaken the rear shocks you speak of have a longer travel then the 5100's but your not lifting 4-6" so they are completely uneccessary. Just get the 5100

 

with the right tools/method, and as long as they aren't too corroded its cake.

It took me about an hour to do one side when I put on my all pro UCA's.

Used a pickle fork to separate the UCA from the BJ, and some sockets and a big C-clamp to press out the ball joint.

The ball joint shot out at me like a rocket, but nonetheless, fairly simple.

 

I have Bilstien 5100's/Eibachs in the front now with an AAL/5100's in the back.

Rears springs have had it and I'm thinking of going with OME Dakars and OME Nitro Sport shocks but keeping the 5100's/Eibachs up front. Anyone running this setup?

 

I just got 5125's, hopefully throwing them on tomorrow. I needed another 2" of travel after adding longer shackles with my AAL.