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Brakes, transmission, E brake help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by pinktaco05, May 11, 2013.

  1. May 11, 2013 at 10:36 PM
    #1
    pinktaco05

    pinktaco05 [OP] Active Member

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    NE Nevada
    Vehicle:
    05 Silver TRD Debadged
    Kenwood DNX6980,5100's, Eibach's, All Pro Expo's, Timbren's, Toyo MT 285/75/16, K&N FIPK, Magnaflow, URD short shifter, Westin grille guard
    So, today I was launching my boat(14 ft aluminum, very light trailer) to go fishing. Upon trying to pull out of the ramp, my truck would not go forward...or back. The rear driver side wheel was locked up and would not budge. I could smell that burnt brake smell. I did have the parking brake pulled originally. I could not tell if it disengaged, since my ABS and Brake light are both on. Also, my check engine recently came on, and will not clear with the odometer trick. Finally, after pumping the brakes a lot, it released and I was on my way.

    Fast forward to leaving the lake. I was not going to use the parking brake, so I left my manual transmission in 1st gear, truck turned off. While I was loading the boat, I noticed the truck slid a couple of inches. Then a couple more. Then a couple more and I got inside.

    Does anyone have any idea what would be causing these problems?? I don't see how they could be related?? Do you think I should replace the speed sensor?? Going into the water is bad, but I definitely don't want to be at 9,500 ft and have my truck roll off the mountain...

    119xxx miles. Original clutch. Short throw shifter. All pro expedition springs.

    Thanks for any help!
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  2. May 12, 2013 at 8:15 PM
    #2
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I would have used reverse rather than first as it is usually a little lower gear ratio.

    Did it slide? I don't think it did.

    I think the steepness of the ramp and the weight resting on the gear was turning the engine over. I have seen this before. Clean the rear drums and brakes, grease your e-brake cables and use them or start chocking your wheels. Either will prevent the engine turning over when resting in gear.
     
  3. May 12, 2013 at 9:53 PM
    #3
    pinktaco05

    pinktaco05 [OP] Active Member

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    NE Nevada
    Vehicle:
    05 Silver TRD Debadged
    Kenwood DNX6980,5100's, Eibach's, All Pro Expo's, Timbren's, Toyo MT 285/75/16, K&N FIPK, Magnaflow, URD short shifter, Westin grille guard
    The trailer weighs 150lbs.....the boat, which wasn't on the trailer yet, weighs 341 lbs with motor. 491lbs is not a lot to be towing...and the ramp is not very steep at all. The truck did slide....swear on my left nut, it was sliding.

    Where/how do you grease your e brake cables?? Is it under the console where the adjustments are??
     
  4. May 12, 2013 at 10:05 PM
    #4
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Central Coast, CA
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    06 4x4 Off Road Access Cab v6 6spd
    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    I have had more than one manual trans vehicle turn the engine over when trying to hold it with just the trans left in gear, engine off. Normal, even without a trailer, or a load.

    As far as one brake not releasing....could be e brake cable, or could be a hydraulic problem.

    Are you sure you were not smelling the clutch? Pretty easy to get mine to smell, and it's only got 15K on it.
     
  5. May 12, 2013 at 11:03 PM
    #5
    byrd

    byrd Unknown

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    Get a set of wheel chocks. $7~20.


    [​IMG]
     
  6. May 12, 2013 at 11:40 PM
    #6
    pinktaco05

    pinktaco05 [OP] Active Member

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    NE Nevada
    Vehicle:
    05 Silver TRD Debadged
    Kenwood DNX6980,5100's, Eibach's, All Pro Expo's, Timbren's, Toyo MT 285/75/16, K&N FIPK, Magnaflow, URD short shifter, Westin grille guard
    Definitely wasn't the clutch...I know what that smells like. I've driven with my wife before :) Ha Thank you, but not really interested in wheel chocks....I have plenty already....I would like my truck to operate properly. I have been on this boat ramp and several others at least 300 times in this truck, and have NEVER had this problem. Not looking for a bandaid, would rather cure the problem.

    If anyone has any tips on performing any of this mechanical work, or a test to isolate the problem, it would be greatly appreciated.
     
  7. May 13, 2013 at 12:56 AM
    #7
    byrd

    byrd Unknown

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    Pull your rear hubs off and check your brakes. When was the last time it had a brake job? It gets dusty inside there as the pads wear down and them being submerged in water probably gummed it up on the adjuster. If it gets lock on they will grind pads down when driving. If your pads are shot, replace them. It's fairly easy to do rear brakes, also have your drums turned. While it's apart grease up the adjuster. I've added a diagram of the rear brakes which shows what needs to be greased. Also, if you have to change the pads get new springs. I don't think your wheel cylinders are bad, but if they are leaking replace them or rebuild. They make kits for all that. Cheaper to do it yourself than pay for labor.
    As for it slipping in gear, that is normal all manuals will do that without the Ebrake on or tires chocked.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  8. May 13, 2013 at 1:20 AM
    #8
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Maybe we are talking about two different things.

    Are you saying that the tires didn't rotate, but the truck slid down the ramp?

    What I am saying is that with the Parking brake off the weight of the truck is resting on the engine; the only thing preventing the wheels from rotating is the engine compression. Given enough weight the engine will turn over and yes the engine will even turn backwards. This will appear to look like it moves a few inches, then a few more, then a few more every time the compression is overcome4 by the weight. That is where my money would be. The manual transmission doesn't have a parking pawl like an automatic transmission would.

    Now for your Parking Brakes if you are going in the water there are all kinds of parts that would seize and cause a wheel to lock up. Normally it is the cables. Check that they operate freely ( using another person ) while you are under the truck and apply grease to the inner cable as it moves in and out of the outer jacket on both ends of each cable. There isn't much else you can do except replace the cables. Check the drums as outlined above by another poster.

    Except for the e-brake getting stuck I think your truck is operating as it should.

    That was my 2 Cents.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  9. May 13, 2013 at 8:34 AM
    #9
    gdctaco

    gdctaco Well-Known Member

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    06 access cab 4x4 O/R
    rr diff mod in-cab 110
    Weird I just had the same problem. but I had to take the wheel off and smack the drum with a hammer to get it to release, dragging the truck back and forth on gravel wouldn't get it to release.
    What I found was the housing/bracket that the cable mounts to at the back of the drum has broken and allows the pressure of the released cable to be diverted as slack in the cable, instead of disengaging the parking brake.
    The diagram Byrd posted doesn't show it, its behind the drum dust shield part of the outer cable.
     
  10. May 13, 2013 at 9:31 AM
    #10
    byrd

    byrd Unknown

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    Best I could find of diagram for rear view of brake assembly.

    [​IMG]
     

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