How many miles is on your 2.7?

Did you get in an accident?

 

No - the frame just rusted thru and Toyota bought it back. I actually drove the 2000 for nothing because they gave me one and one half book.

 

2001 2.7 Prerunner doublecab auto with 196,000 completely stock (bought in '05 with 68,000). I have replaced O2 sensor, battery, synthetic oil and mobil1 filters every 10,000. I had 91,000 on the last set of Michelins.
I need front brakes though so my question is what to get? When I look up parts I am asked if it has 11.61 inch rears....? How do I know?! help please.

 

Your comfortable with 10,000 miles oil changes ? I was changing mine at 3,000 and when I switched to synthetic I went to 5,000. The last oil change I didn't get to do til 6,000 and it looked pretty dirty. I'm hoping to get 300,000 plus.

 

This truck is great, the synthetic oil still looks like honey at 10k. It doesn't burn a drop either. My check engine light comes on/off and the code is for egr. I hear you can take it off and spray clean it instead of replacing. I may try this soon also to save $100.

 

10,000 is a long way between oil changes. I wouldn't recommend it. But if it still looks clean, more power to you. Are you changing the filters every 10,000 as well?

 

2003 PreRunner with 201k miles!! still runs like a champ! Can go another 200k miles, i hope..lol

Oil change every 5k miles with full synthetic and new oil filter! Just changed the diff and tranny fluids aswell.

 

10,000 is the factory recommended OCI on my wife's Camry and I thought they upped the 2.7 to 10K miles in the new owners manual if you are using 0W-20, I could be wrong about that part though.

 

I think this is pressure from the Government to stretch out OCI to save the environment - that and maybe to advertise less maintenance like when they first started eliminating zerks on front ends. All it means is guaranteed to fail so they can sell you a new one. If I go over 5,000 on syn it doesn't look good so I'm sticking with that. Just had another thought - what do you think is different with my 2.7 from 08 and a 2.7 now that would allow it 2 B OK to double the recommended OCI - IMHO nothing but the BS I mentioned above.

 

You could be right. I plan to stay with 5k OCIs on my Tacoma and do 7.5k on the Camry after the free change at 10k and 20k but I suspect with synth oil either would be fine with a 10k OCI

 

I'm not concerned at all with going 10k due to the light color of the full syn oil, using a good filter, and I don't push this truck hard at all either. I still strive for 25mpg and 90k from my michelins.
But does anyone have a clue about my question on the brakes? What's with the 11.61 inch thing?

 

I DIY so it cost me $20 - $25 for syn with filter and I use a good filter so I compare that to $30,000 plus for a Tacoma with options and too much is OK by me on the OCI.

 

2.7 Tacoma with factory-fill synthetic still requires 5k OCI, even though other Toyota models allow 10k.

 

Go to the dealer and buy your brakes from them. They are the best material you are going to get, and they will know which rear shoes to provide you with based on the VIN.

The guy at Autozone is presented with a list for 2wd and he doesn't know which shoes are for the Prerunner and which are for the 5-lug.
Chances are, if you tell him you have a 4x4, he won't ask which shoes you have and you'll get the right ones.

 

Ditto.

Even with synthetic costing more than conventional, I still stick with the OEM change intervals.
Extended drain intervals are NOT the primary reason to run synthetic. They are pushed by Amsoil salesmen who are trying to justify the cost to customers, IE: Oil costs twice as much, but you actually SAVE the cost of the filter by doubling the OCI... But that is not the primary advantage of running synthetic.

1 - Better cold-flow performance
2 - Better film retention (benefits you every time you start the engine)
3 - Better viscosity retention at elevated temperatures - the reduced level of viscosity improvers needed in synthetics are more stable in shear, and allow a synthetic 5w40 to maintain the viscosity performance of a 15w40 conventional (Diesel engines only, just an example)
4 - Better resistance to coking - Coking is what forms the basis for sludge. It is also a critical feature for turbocharged engines, where the hot turbo is shut down and the oil flow stops and "cooks" in the bearings. Conventional oils will "coke" (not "cook") and leave carbon deposits which build up over time and lead to bearing failure.

#3 and #4 are the basis for the logic of running extended drain intervals.

 

1 & 2 are the reasons I like syn. I've always heard the most wear is at start up.

 

Yup. Every time, the engine is turning with no oil pressure.
Take the valve covers off of an old Chevy 350, pull the coil wire, and see how long you have to crank a cold engine before oil starts squirting out of the pushrods.

It's not a "long" time, but it's uncomfortable.

 

At one time I looked into a gizmo that would build up the oil pressure before starting but I didn't follow thru.
Here is a link to a (pre-oiling)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-24-006/

 

Ya, a couple of my racing buddies had similar rigs back in the 80s.
Just had to remember to close the solenoid before shutting down.

What I don't see on that, or in the installation kits, is a control valve.
Done properly, the accumulator is open at all times the engine is running. That way, if the pickup is uncovered during hard cornering, the accumulator takes over.

But without a valve, it's going to dump as soon as the engine is shut down.

 

I'm impressed ! I thought I was posting some information of interest to the subject but you already knew all about it. Let us know if you actually do a similar mod and how it worked out. Thanks.