1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

winch battery?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by amp3d, May 14, 2013.

  1. May 14, 2013 at 8:05 AM
    #1
    amp3d

    amp3d [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2011
    Member:
    #62377
    Messages:
    97
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Toronto
    Vehicle:
    02 Prerunner TRD
    Hey guys,
    about to pick up a winch in the near future. I dont want to do a dual battery setup if I don't need to, since I hope to never have to use the winch at all :) This will be mounted on a 2" front receiver

    I don't do any hardcore wheeling, but I do a lot of motocross so this is just for the emergency times where I get my bikes and truck in somewhere and can't get the prerunner out.

    I was going to pick up an optima yellow, but after checking here a lot of people think they have gone downhill. What do you guys think?

    SHould I just stick with my stock Toyota battery for now? And if it dies one day, so be it, and pick up a different one?

    Thanks!
     
  2. May 14, 2013 at 11:04 AM
    #2
    Sittingbull2

    Sittingbull2 Old N.R.A. Hippy

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2012
    Member:
    #87633
    Messages:
    124
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mitch
    Southeast texas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Xtra Cab SR5 White
    3" Body lift, ARB Front Bumper w/9000 lb. Warn Winch, Chevy Alum. Rims w/ Kelly 285's M/S
    Put a load tester on it and see how good it is. Load tester will make it seem like you have something hooked up to your battery. If it is good stay with what you got. I have winch on mine one battery. When I do use it I keep the rpm's up a little while I winch. haven't had no problems yet been on my truck for 2 yrs. and it's been used quiet a bit.
    Sittingbull2
     
  3. May 14, 2013 at 11:38 AM
    #3
    jaunty

    jaunty Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2012
    Member:
    #82164
    Messages:
    118
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    99 V6 TRD Automatic 4x4
    i also have a front mounted receiver. (also ran wiring to rear) check the amp rating on your winch for max pull, the stock battery won't yield as much, but it will still work. I ended up getting an optima blue dual purpose version.
     
  4. May 14, 2013 at 11:59 AM
    #4
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2013
    Member:
    #102450
    Messages:
    1,978
    Gender:
    Male
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    '96, 4x4, v6, manual hub
    Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Leafs with Orbit Eyes, 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" Hi/Lo Beam HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15º clocking
    Check out the Sears Die Hard Platinum batteries. They use the same cells as the expensive Odessey batteries. I've used my Die hard with the winch about a dozen times (sometimes for long pulls) and the battery hasn't skipped a beat.
     
  5. May 18, 2013 at 11:12 AM
    #5
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2010
    Member:
    #48053
    Messages:
    756
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    BiLL
    Bozeman, Montana
    Vehicle:
    2011 Access Cab 4x2
    Locking Tailgate & Gas Cap and extra bed D-rings
    The main purpose of dual battery set up is to isolate your starting battery such that it can restart your engine. Car starting batteries are designed with thinner plates for a lot of shallow discharges and not deep discharges. So to avoid premature car battery failure, it is best to use a deep cycle battery for deep cycle applications.

    If you use one battery for both starting and deep cycle applications, than a deep cycle battery with enough CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to start you engine is preferred. While using a single battery for deep cycle application, running your engine concurrently at 1500 RPM or more will produce all or most of the current required to minimize the discharge of your battery.
     
  6. May 18, 2013 at 11:21 AM
    #6
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,383
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    I prefer the security of my dual battery set up...

    but if I were going to go with a single battery
    for both starter and winching...

    I would be looking a wedging in a deep cycle group 31

    It's big... and heavy...
    but a powerful beast with lots of reserve :)
     
  7. May 18, 2013 at 11:52 AM
    #7
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    I wouldn't bother with a second battery for just winching.

    Your not supposed to connect the winch to the secondary battery anyways, not directly. You keep it on the starter battery as its closest to the alternator. A better alternator would do better then a second battery.

    That said. doesn't sound like you'll use it extensivly. So a Die Hard would work great.
     
  8. May 18, 2013 at 6:03 PM
    #8
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,383
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    wut ? :der:

    I'm gonna ignore everything you just typed
     
  9. May 18, 2013 at 6:15 PM
    #9
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Lol then I'm sorry..your an idiot.

    You want the winch closest to the alternator connected to the starter battery. You then simple connect the two batteries with your isolator to gain the extra power from the second battery. Then use your handy hand throttle to kick up the alternator so you have the extra power too.

    Don't believe me? Look up any wiring diagram on dual batteries from a big name company. Will be like I said above.
     
  10. May 18, 2013 at 6:24 PM
    #10
    hayabusa3303

    hayabusa3303 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2011
    Member:
    #61062
    Messages:
    556
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    florence sc
    Vehicle:
    95.5 taco 4x4
    ARB bumper, warn 9.5 winch. carbon fiber hood. Leer top with thule racks and MOAB from thule. Electric fans, blue sea fuse block, Sony dvd Head unit, Xm tuner and HD tuner. New carpet and new racing seats. ( other half doesnt like them i think). Nwor springs and adjustable coil overs. Sky jacker rear shocks. Slot and drilled rotors. Engine Titanium ceramic coated headers, no cat, jba cat back. URD Rear Sensor Simulator. Leds all around and inside cab and HID H4 hi/lo beams.
    2x he is correct on this...
     
  11. May 19, 2013 at 12:14 AM
    #11
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Member:
    #34006
    Messages:
    22,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Roaming the PNW
    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/2.37" Pulley Haltech Elite 2000 Standalone ECU Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Doug Thorley Headers Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT, Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    I think you'll be fine with your current battery as long as you leave the engine running while you are winching. Keeping a starting battery charged is the key to its longevity. It is quite possible the alternator will not be able to keep up with the drain the winch puts on the system if the engine is just idling. So if you are forced to run the winch quite a bit on a recovery, either pause winching and raise the idle for a while to allow the alternator to recover the state of the charge or have someone keep the engine RPMs raised while you are winching.

    FWIW, I am using a single yellow top. I went this route mostly because the deep cycle properties of the yellow top allow it to handle deep discharging that can occur when winching.
     
  12. May 19, 2013 at 3:23 PM
    #12
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,383
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    yep, I'm that idiot whom runs his winch directly off the Aux. battery.

    Been doing it's job since '05
    And with the very same YT installed back in '05
    ~Optima's aren't supposed to last that long tho'~ :rolleyes:

    There's more then one way to skin a cat...
    Same goes for dual battery installs and winch hook up.

    My system works to isolate the starter battery and e system
    from the heavy loads associated with winching.
    An internal short or short at the winch's leads...
    could spell disaster for other winch install methods.
    but some precautions can be taken for that as well.

    My Aux. battery carries all the heavy loads...
    So if failure occurs...
    The starter battery/e system will be unaffected
    and I will be driving home that day.
    (possibly with a fubar'd Aux. battery and winch, but oh well)

    If the winch is hooked up directly to the starter battery...
    I might suggest that a breaker be run on the +POS side of the winch.
    To better protect your electrical system.

    If not... make sure you bring along some fuses/relays with ya.
    Hopefully a fuse/relay blows before too much heat occurs and melts shit.

    The the method you may follow may be more popular/efficient...
    tho' it still doesn't mean it's what's right for everyone.
    If the winch is farther from the alternator...
    Using larger (awg) cable should be able to compensate.
    Resistance might be slightly higher...
    but is likely not a deal breaker.

    I use my winch for self recovery and assist...
    it's not really meant for industrial use.

    It's most important to me (security)
    to have the starter battery and e system separated
    From the winching duties.

    Alternator voltage remains the same/constant to either my Stater or Aux. battery.
    The Isolator will send the power to which ever battery
    is demanding power the most, first.

    I do not use a battery combiner... never needed that.
    My winch load is only drawn off the Aux. battery/Alt.
    It's a deep cycle 34/78 YT...
    and I have never irreversibly drained it during use.

    The alternator has kept both batteries charged and ready.
    Even during a heavy pull...
    the Start/Aux. battery are able to effectively maintain/regain any lost charge/capacity.

    But then... I don't run my winch continuously like some nimwits would.
    Instead... I pull in timed increments while letting things cool down in between.

    I have a HO alt. I have yet to install...
    Haven't really needed that as of yet...
    But will be installed to insure that supply meets demand.


    I never said you were wrong...
    nor that... others advice was wrong.


    Just said I was ignoring your comments :p

    Not every dual battery set up
    has the same intended purpose or goal in mind.
    A winch can be run to either start/aux battery...
    and made to be equally effective and efficient.
    The batteries can even be combined...
    if you think you need that. ( I never have)

    If my system were fubar...
    I think I'd be the first to know.

    For me...
    Having security is more important then have anal-retentive efficiency :rolleyes:

    I'm not really offering any advice here...
    just defending my own choices. ;)

    to each their own of course...
    follow whatever advise you think is best for your needs/use.

    idiot out [​IMG]
     
  13. May 19, 2013 at 4:41 PM
    #13
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    What??

    Post up a diagram on how your setup is wired. Your making it sound like its in parallel not isolated..
     
  14. May 19, 2013 at 6:50 PM
    #14
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,383
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
  15. May 19, 2013 at 6:59 PM
    #15
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    So your isolator is automatic that switchs back and forth between the batteries.

    With that setup basically like having two starter batteries. So that way works. But I think most newer systems don't do it that way. They have the alternator + go to starter battery then a + cable to an isolator that goes to second battery. So when the isolator is on it links the batteries and charges both or you can use them when winching. But then turn off the isolator and you can still use your fridge lights or whatever that is on the secondary battery so it'll drain but the starter won't.
     
  16. May 19, 2013 at 10:48 PM
    #16
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,383
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    yep, dependent upon demand.

    except the Aux batt. is removed from the vehicle's e-system.
    And I'm not using starter type batteries.

    I'm old... so that's my excuse. (old dogs suck at new tricks) :p
    I'll leave that newer digital age stuff for you youngsters.

    Tho' I do wish I could afford a diode type isolator.
    That would bring the efficiency up a notch.

    You seem fairly smart for a youngster
    so I'll give you that [​IMG]

    idiot out
     
  17. May 19, 2013 at 10:53 PM
    #17
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Right. My secondary bat doesn't run my trucks electrics either. But they are still linked if needed..so really can just jump myself if the starter bat dies.

    But there are a million ways to skin a cat. I never came across that kind of setup in my research. But I like it.

    Youngster out :cool:
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  18. May 19, 2013 at 10:54 PM
    #18
    superwhite

    superwhite Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Member:
    #66224
    Messages:
    226
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    sean
    Western NC
    Vehicle:
    07 double cab 4x4
    Dana 60 rear Chevy 63's shackle flip mid travel gears lockers and 38's in progress
    I have my truck setup with a gell cell starting battery, isolator, and two yellow tops for auxillary loads. Never been able to kill the batteries even overnifht and i can jump the starying battery from the aux if i leave the radio on overnight or something. Probably overkill but its been near impossible to get stranded so far...
     
  19. May 19, 2013 at 10:58 PM
    #19
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Member:
    #34006
    Messages:
    22,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Roaming the PNW
    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/2.37" Pulley Haltech Elite 2000 Standalone ECU Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Doug Thorley Headers Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT, Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Where do you have the yellow tops mounted? Got an pics?
     
  20. May 19, 2013 at 11:11 PM
    #20
    superwhite

    superwhite Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Member:
    #66224
    Messages:
    226
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    sean
    Western NC
    Vehicle:
    07 double cab 4x4
    Dana 60 rear Chevy 63's shackle flip mid travel gears lockers and 38's in progress
    No pictures right now but i have them mounted in the toolbox. Had one mounted in the engine bay but it was too cramped. Have a 2-0 wire ran to the batteries with a circuit breaker in case of a short.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top