Idaho BS thread in the PNW

Just watched the goods and taken 2 since Boise is too boring to go explore. Both are great movies though!!

 

Alright gents here's the situation. Got the regear done, new axle is all in and driving good.

However there is some issue with the locker enguagement. At first it would have both wheels locked in both off and on switch positions. We could hear the locker motor working the whole time. Then we took the motor out and slid the locker gear over to unlocked and locker position a few times easily. Put the motor in and when it locked it would hardly catch and we could hear the diff ratchet as we spun the tires, like it wasn't sliding the locker over enough. Also weird was that it unlocked when the switch was put in lock position.

So something with the wiring or the locker motor .

It locker abbé unlocked seemingly fine when it was out of the housing

 

Wow..that's fishy man..I'd say it was in the diff if the motor works outside the diff.

Also cody...your build can kiss my builds ass

 

oh fuck you, yours is literally full of BS
<3

 

Lol I know.

But come on..you haven't done anything to Tiffany in the last what? 20 pages haha

 

No the motor worked and moved what seemed to be enough when it was in the third and the third was out of the housing. We didn't take the motor out and run it by itself because we know the motor works because we can hear it. And it can't be the diff gears it self because we can lock and unlock it all just fine with a screw driver pushing on the locker gear. So either the motor isn't pushing the collar out far enough due to wiring or an internal problem, or we just didnt line up the gears right with the locker motor and the diff teeth. Not sure past that

 

first all, Tiana.

secondly, just wait...

you have the RTT, I'll have the shiny

 

Hmmm..well I can't see how wiring would effect it. It's just a simple actuator and if it works it works. Or it's busted. Don't they go out every so often??

So basically..locker doesn't work lol can you drive it?

 

Ill have the shiney too..soon..hopefully..

 

woot working 4x4, truck on 4 wheels, truck with no bed, truck with 89 and 89 degrees camber unsure on castor but not safely movable

tomorrow is air locker time, and than bam bitches 37's

 

Well it might not be being told to go out far enough. Dunno. And ya I can drive it just fine. Been driving back to Boise since like 10:30. Drives like it did before, slow and jumpy lol. I can lick and unlock it too, just with a screw driver

 

Also bumper is painted this week. So monte stfu

 

sorry about the locker bro but it cant be that big of an issue at this point so dont stress. And it's all progress. Moab soon.

 

Im the center of MY universe if you don't like it Find your own universe

 

I know, hoping for an easy fix. Almost in Boise, and no grenade diff. I'd say it's good to go to Moab with.

Dam good work!

 

k just to include a more comprehensive summary of what is fubar


So I got my third re geared and into the new axle and the axle under the truck and everything together snug as a bug in a rug. Just as a side note I just drove 270 miles home after we got this done so the re gear and diff are dandy.

K so the issue. After the truck came off the lift I went to test it and no matter which position I had the locker switch in the tires would stay locked, now take note I wired and installed my own completely separate e locker circuit, but it seemingly worked fine when the third was out of the housing. The motor itself was working because every time I hit the button we could hear the actuator working.

So we pulled the truck back in and took out the motor and slid the locker slide gear with a screw driver to unlock it and we could spin the tires in open diff mode. We then put the locker motor back in with the locker gear slid a bit differently and when I hit the switch it would slide the locker to engage but it was like it would just barely catch because we could hear the diff ratcheting trying to engage but it couldn't, because our guess is the collar did not slide enough.

Also odd was that when I had the button depressed it disengaged the locker, and when the button was in the "off position" the locker tried to engage. Admittedly when I tested the wiring before installing I was not sure if being in or out was locked or unlocked, i just saw it move and assumed it was right. So with that, could there be a difference in how the motor works in "reverse" and "engage" mode? Like if the motor is being told to reverse when it should be locking is it spinning more or less than the locked command?

Tomorrow i am going to test my buddy's motor in my diff to see if the motor or the wiring is the issue. We have eliminated the gears inside the diff as the issue because we were able to slide them into locked and unlocked pretty easily with a screw driver, so if there was a binding issue that could not have happened.




Other info:

Wiring diagram






Testing outside the third:

Out:


In:

 

Like I sad in your build thread. Just bring a screwdriver to moab with you! haha

 

Thank god

300 miles isn't going to tell younifnthe gears are ok. Took Brady 4-5k

Hmmm wish I could see your wiring in person. I'd be a much better help there. You could potentially have a crossed connection somewhere

 

The way you explained it Mark or sounds like you are not dumping the voltage

Did you install a good ground??? And like monte said check all your connections it sounds like you just applying power still

 

Ya, got both grounds on the bolt for the bpv