What the #@%! is wrong with my steering?

Hi All

First off, first post. If you want to link me to the right discussion about this I appreciate it. I searched around some but couldn't find my exact dilemma.

The problem is that I've got "loose" steering on my 2wd 98 Tacoma SR5 with a 4" lift, 180,000 miles on her.

Loose: play in the steering wheel, and most troubling, shaking at 55mph+ sense of floaty-ness that is just... wrong.

Now I'll get into the (boring but important) history of this issue, I'd really really appreciate some feedback into what I tackle next.

First off it's been a great truck. I've had it for 10 years, traveled across the country a lot. I can't put into words how good it has been to me. I've replaced the alternator and the starter and then standard maintenance. That's all.

UNTIL... about 4 years ago my driver side lower ball joint popped out while I was deep in the woods. It was an interesting tow. But had the ball joint replaced and all was well.

AND THEN, and this really is where things have been effed for me, and making me kind of crazy: driving along a boulevard in LA where I currently live, 40mph rounding a turn in traffic and my passenger side lower ball joint pops out. In this case my truck slammed into the pavement pretty good. The tire was ruined from being dragged on its side for 50 yards etc.

And popped in another ball joint (and replaced the front tires) and it was "fine".

Except that ever since (and indeed, leading up to it for a short time, bad ball joint) I noticed a 'looseness'. It really felt like I was captain of a boat, the way it floated.

So I attempted to remedy the situation.

I:

•*replaced the rack & pinion. my mechanic said it was pretty worn out. makes sense, had to happen, didn't fix the overall floatiness.

•*replaced the bushings.

•*put on (all 4 now) new tires

• got her aligned

•*took it back to my alignment guy and he tried bending the frame, he said he thought that might be the shaking on the freeway problem.

make a long story short, nope, nope, nope and nope.

It feels loose, and it shakes at high speeds, and frankly, six months later I'm at my wit's end. It feels dangerous and I don't enjoy driving it. And that sucks because I've got a few road trips in mind this summer. I'm also more broke and tired of "fixing" things that don't fix it.

So I'm turning to you guys, noob that I am, looking for some feedback.

Here are my thoughts, my totally-not-the-kind-of-dude-who-pretends-to-know-jack-shit-about-working-on-trucks thoughts:

Several years ago, the power steering pump was making it's cat meowing sound. I looked to get it replaced but couldn't afford it at the time and kept driving. Yeah. I know. Anyways. I've heard differing opinions on this, but doesn't it seem like if my power steering pump wasn't keeping adequate pressure in the rack that that could be causing the problem?

It's great for mileage and camping, but could my 'dealer-installed' 4" lift that came with it when I bought it used be the culprit?

Actually that's all I've got.

If anyone can give me some thoughts on the matter I can't tell you how much I'll appreciate it.

Thanks guys!

 

Hey,

Some suggestions for the moment with luck one of the more experienced guys with 98's will show up and provide some more insight. Here goes:

98's were part of the frame recall has your frame been checked ? ( If the frame is rusted bad enough in the right spots it could be weak and under load flexing)
Have you checked:
Control Arms Bushings
Sway Bar ( If Installed ) Bushings
Motor Mounts ( Could Cause the Vibe but not sure if they could cause the steering issue)
Old trick when it is vibrating be on a safe clear road get it to vibrate throw it in neutral if it is still vibrating it is running gear if it isn't it is drive train. ( Not sure if this trick still works lol did till the early 80s :})
Rack and pinion check gears for sheared pins allowing the drive gear or the rack to shift you can do this by jacking up the front of the truck have someone turn the wheels and you pull the wheel the other way if it shifts to you IE away from the way they are turning your rack and pinion unit Is jacked up.
Are there any journals in the steering column that may be loose, worn or broken ?
Again check frame at mount points for struts, sway bar, control arms and check front axle assembly for broken or cracked mounts.
While you have the jack out , jack it up at different points watch for movement where there shouldn't be and listen for metal on metal rubbing sounds some weld cracks are so fine you can't see them with a strong light takes a little movement to see them. Try various points and even check the rear for the same as the front crack, loose mounts etc if your rear end is shimmying around it will make vibrations and cause you to have to constantly correct with the steering wheel.

Just some thoughts if nothing comes of it well by the time your done inspecting the truck maybe someone here with more knowledge will answer.

Cypherian

 

Play in the rack. Not sure if Tacoma's are adjustable, but on some cars they are.

 

Tierods is the only thing that has't been mentioned in all of this. Jack it up and see if the wheel moves fore and aft. Then check the other side. There is inners and outers.

 

Thanks for the leads, this is great. I'm going to get some work in on it this weekend and see what we can find out.

Rag joint and/or tie rod sound especially close to problem... but we'll see.

Will post back if I can figure it out so that hopefully it'll steer people in the right direction (bad pun intended).

 

Is the rag joint the one that allows the steering shaft to collapse in an accident that is notorious for breaking on our trucks?

 

I had some similar issues on my 95.5 SX.

I wheeled the hell out of the truck on weekend and wrecked the LCA bushings. The truck would literally float 3-6" inches in either direction all by itself on a straight road. Frightening to say the least.

Rack and pinion. After a few years of pushing wide 33" tires back and forth the R&P ate it. I sourced a replacement and installed it. Drove fine for almost a year and then the inner tie-rod went to hell and the rack started to leak. Got a replacement under warranty. Lesson: Even though its a "new" R&P its most likely a rebuilt, and may have crapped out on you. If the inner tie-rod end is junk it's no joke to replace yourself.

If your truck is 2WD and you have the lifted spindles this may not apply, but I was chewing through ball joints having my ULA and LCA pushed as far down as I did with the lift from my front C/O's cranked. Needless to say I got really good at replacing them. I was also having the same issue with the outer tie-rod ends. Truck was tearing them up.

The last issue that comes to mind running a lot of lift was the wear and tear on the drive shaft U-joints. I should have clocked the transfer case down the alleviate the extreme angles.

Good luck isolating the issue. A lot of good ideas from the other guys above.

 

Yes. Although I never personally experienced an issue with it in 15 years.

 

I know you said it was alined, but I would check it for toe out. take a string and tie it to a block or something that will be about center of wheels, may have to remove mud flaps so they are out of way, stretch string from rear to front till it just touches tires, If it touches front of front tire with a gap at rear of tire it's toed out, if it touches front and rear of front tire at the same time it's dead ahead, Anyway, I would try toeing it in a little and see if that helps.

 

I agree with the lower control arm bushings, they can really make the truck float and "dart." I would double check those and the sway bar linkages/bushings.

I disagree with the inner tie rod ends, pretty easy to change if you have big wrenches.

 

If you haven't already

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O01xIDnuk8

 

I could never get them to break free. Thought for sure I was going to destroy the R&P. Dunno, that was some time ago now.

 

I am a Tacoma Newbie, as well and had a serious problem with shaking. I bought my 2000 Tacoma about 6 weeks ago. It had Procomp wheels and a 3" Toyotec lift. The thing shook like an earthquake at 60mph. I figured it was the drive line from the lift the guy put on it. The drive shafts were pretty far out of line, do I dropped the carrier bearing 1.5 inches and replaced the bearing. It didn't solve the problem. Everything was aligned and balanced. So I read somewhere on this forum that some aftermarket wheels don't seat right on the tacomas. Something about the lugs being loose or not seating right. It was driving me crazy so I said screw it and traded a guy my wheels and tires for some factory Toyota wheels and his tires. Got it out on the highway and the thing ran smooth as silk at all speeds. Go Figger! So now I am keeping the wheels and selling the tires cause I didn't really like the ones I got, but I had to try it! Hey, it worked.....it was worth it. You might want to try it if you have aftermarket wheels on your truck.

 

New thought, may or may not help...

Check the wheels. There are two types, hub centric and non. Hub centric wheels have a hub diameter of 106mm, and when you put the wheel on that center hole is what ensures the wheel is centered on the hub. Some aftermarket wheels have a center hole of 108mm or more to accommodate several makes and models. That style HAS to have the proper lug nut (tapered end) AND you have to torque them properly to ensure the wheel is centered.