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Do I Need New Rotors?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by FARNORCAL, May 24, 2013.

  1. May 24, 2013 at 7:55 PM
    #1
    FARNORCAL

    FARNORCAL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm doing a break job on my truck tomorrow. I didn't see any bad scoring on the rotors. Should i change them out anyways. I already bought a set to be safe. Any thoughts?
     
  2. May 24, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #2
    TacoTony

    TacoTony Well-Known Member

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    Yeah you need to know if they're still at manufacturers specs, if they are then you should get them resurfaced
     
  3. May 24, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #3
    FARNORCAL

    FARNORCAL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Most of my buddys were saying to change the rotors and pads. Just want to hear what ya'll think. I figured it wouldnt hurt but I'm out $100 on new rotors. Didnt want to deal with turning rotors either. I've heard that most just slap new pads on though. My truck only has 50,000 miles on it and it an 2006.
     
  4. May 24, 2013 at 8:31 PM
    #4
    FARNORCAL

    FARNORCAL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah they're original to my knowledge. I bought the truck at 20k
     
  5. May 24, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #5
    kmd garage

    kmd garage Well-Known Member

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    Don't forget to check for run out(warpage) If your pedal has been pulsating when stoping or any vibrations in the front end chances are there is some warpage. I usually just replace the rotors rather then turning them. They can be had cheaper then my time to take them down and have them turned. Plus I am not a big fan of taking off material any how.

    Since you all ready have them just replace them. Safe insurance on an important aspect of your trucks performance.

    While you are in there do not forget to put some quality brake lube on the contact surfaces of the calipers as well as the caliper slider bolts if so equipped.
     
  6. May 24, 2013 at 8:47 PM
    #6
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    I have 70k miles on my 06 and I have not changed my brake pads. I still have about 1/4 inch of the stock pad left. But I don't brake very hard.

    When these pads are worn out I will be replacing with some OEM pads and I have no need to replace the rotors.
     
  7. May 24, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #7
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    Isn't qynla on his factory rotors at 325k+ miles?
     
  8. May 26, 2013 at 7:03 PM
    #8
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Brake not break.
     
  9. May 26, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #9
    TacoTony

    TacoTony Well-Known Member

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  10. May 26, 2013 at 8:46 PM
    #10
    TacoTony

    TacoTony Well-Known Member

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    I tryed
     
  11. May 26, 2013 at 9:06 PM
    #11
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    I do my own brakes and when I do, I order up pads & rotors. I pull everything off and take the old rotors down to have turned. If they're within spec after turning they go back on. If they're too thing after turning out all the imperfections they go in the trash and I install the new ones. I just plan on changing the rotors so that way I'm not out anything if I have to. If they can be turned then I just put the rotors on the shelf for next time and saved some bucks. I do this with all my vehicles over the years and it works pretty well. Every now and then I have to sell a pair of new rotors because I sold or traded in a vehicle before using them but no big deal. I don't trust anyone else to touch my brakes.
     
  12. May 27, 2013 at 1:03 AM
    #12
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    68k on my stock brakes, checked pad thickness tonight. 5.2mm I figure I have another 45k at least, and I'll check my rotors then.

    Standard thickness:
    11.5 mm (0.453 in.)
    Minimum thickness:
    1.0 mm (0.039 in.)

    Using a micrometer, measure the disc thickness.
    Standard thickness:
    28.0 mm (1.102 in.)
    Minimum thickness:
    26.0 mm (1.024 in.)

    Just for kicks

    Provisionally fasten the disc with the hub nuts.
    Torque: 113 N*m (1,152 kgf*cm, 83 ft.*lbf)
    (b) Using a dial indicator, measure the disc runout 10
    mm (0.39 in.) away from the outer edge of the disc.
    Maximum disc runout:
    0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)
    (c) If the disc runout is the maximum value or greater,
    check the bearing play in the axial direction and
    check the axle hub runout (see page AH-1). If the
    bearing play and axle hub runout are normal, adjust
    the disc runout or grind it on an on-car brake lathe.

    As long as mine aren't warped and have plenty of thickness left I'll just run em with new Toyota pads when it comes time. YMMV
     
  13. May 27, 2013 at 6:54 AM
    #13
    PSJ

    PSJ Prerunners Work

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    As mentioned, there a lot of variables with brake wear and rotors. I have 46K and my original brakes/rotors look great and I have no issues. 50K is not a lot of miles, and if you have no rotor issues as mentioned just have them checked/resurfaced. A good shop will not do the work on the rotors if there is no life left in them. My guess they are still good. No need to replace usable parts...
     
  14. May 27, 2013 at 8:46 AM
    #14
    jmg256

    jmg256 Calmer than you are

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    108k on my original factory brakes from 2005...I've got at least 40k left before I need to replace pads, will do rotors then...
     
  15. May 27, 2013 at 12:18 PM
    #15
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I'm with you on this. I have never had to replace the factory brakes with less than 100K miles on them. As good as brake systems are these days unless they are raced or abused there is no reason to replace them any sooner. Of course I am older.... When I sold my last truck ( 20 year old daily driver ) it still had the factory brake pads and rotors.
     

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