Warped rotors -- cant get this issue to go away

Good point.

But if its ever so slightly dragging it doesn't necessarily = when i put the brakes it will pull. They could easily be braking evenly but one doesn't fall back all the way. It is also possible that minimal drag would create heat and end up warping the rotors after time = no pulsing right after the repair then pulsing after time. This time it definitely took less time for it to start pulsing.

My bet is on the calipers. Now that I think of it this happened to me on a bike after I replaced the pads. I didnt re-set the pads correctly/didnt fully purge the fluid which = a slight drag on the rotors = heat = warped rotors.

BTW its not pulling to one side or the other

Anyone want to place their bets?

 

I checked them about 15k ago but ill check again. I am going to flush the brake fluid. that will be a good time to check the calipers and bearings

 

Just got my breaks done at Shwabs back about 1500-2k miles ago and my breaks are already seized up, which is the first reason I went over there. Don't ask why I didn't just do it myself lol mom paid for it. But so annoying. I really dislike Shwabs.

 

Are the pads wearing evenly on both sides? That will be another indicator.

I've heard / read that resurfaced rotors will re-warp more quickly. There is less metal to dissipate the heat, and that the metal has "memory" (not as sure about that one).

 

Ill be pulling the wheels of to purge the brake fluid. Ill check for that too. Ill do a close inspection.

I believe the "metal has memory" -- if the internal structure is warped. But not so much the less material to dissipated heat. they take off very little metal but then again it is possible.

 

My daughter has to be the best at getting new brakes to pulse. Lots of high speed braking due to tail gating. Has two driving modes, on the throttle, on the brakes, no coasting allowed. Brake hard to the stop sign, hold foot on brake. Hard braking down hills scrubbing of 10-15 mph. Not saying that's your technique, just how she does it. Contributing factor maybe the heavy Nissan quest van.

No question that the original brakes on my '07 weren't great, but no pulsing. Powerstop haul and tow? rotors and pads are better but now I think the rubber lines need to be upgraded to SS 'cause it's still got a little sponginess.

 

If you have the coin, check out the Centric and Stop Tech cryo treated rotors at Tire Rack. Between the two brands you have a choice of plain, slotted, or drilled rotors.

 

I am in Mexico right now. I need to make a run for Laredo so it still might be a possibility but I dont think my options are as good here as over state side.

Plus it will more than likely cost 40% more.

Cost of doing business here in MX

 

YES! I totally agree. Especially after 100K. Anyone know where to get them?

BTW -- did i mention i love that bike

 

Get a mailbox at the UPS Store or comparable place in Laredo, and have them shipped there so you can p/u when you're in town.

 

Thanks, its a very Honda bike, built because they could. The very complex little dohc v4 runs like a sewing machine, has an awesome snarl to it with the Hindle 4 into one and handles very nice. I once beat it down the highway from Duluth, MN to Black River Falls, WI running right at 7k rpm hour after hour. Whole trip from McGregor, IA to Brainerd, MN to Ely. MN to McGregor IA including the blitz from Duluth to Black River Falls it used a little less than a pint of oil with close to 40K on the motor at that time.. Unfortunately its now a love hate relationship. My 66 year old body hates to go more than a few miles even in its relatively open sport bike crouch. So it sits mostly although my 6 and 4 yr old grandsons have their eye on it .

I haven't gotten too serious about the SS brake lines yet but I think Tire Rack has them as well as others.

 

mine are warped too, I had them changed less than 10k miles ago....and they are warped already, pulsing when braking at highway speeds...the first time I had a sticky brake caliper. If I have to replace them again, I'm gonna see about finding soemthing new that will keep them from warping...

Mine only pulses when I hit the brakes hard. I have resorted to engine braking whenever I can get away with it, I'll have to go get it checked soon.

 

How are you or your mechanic installing the wheels? Are you torquing them properly? If not, that is your problem. Any and all floating hubs will create a brake pulsation within 5 to 10K miles. Even if your mechanic is telling you he is torquing them, his equipment might be flawed.

 

What is a " Floating Hub "?

I know what a " floating caliper " is. But we don't have those on the Tacoma.

 

They have been re-torqued by myself every time. I dont believe they are that sensitive that if the wrench was flawed it would affect more than 10 to 20#. Ive had wrenched go south but always the internals goes and there is no click. I used to have access to a torque wrench calibrator and even cheap ones after abuse they were dead on.

If that even really is a probable cause you would have to stand on one of the lugs with all you weight and hand torque the rest. That is some serious metal. Its not going to move. At least that is IMO

 

Not a clue how it was done last, the dealership did it for me as my usually place was closed and I needed to go back to school 2 hours away

 

Sounds like you ride your brakes a lot and over heat them?

 

I know this is an old thread but I think it to be useful information.

The braking power started to really go down hill so i decided to check them out. I finally got around to pulling it all apart and the calipers are sticking. Many suggestions above were rock solid but in this case it is the calipers. I kind of figured that was the case.

I think it worth it (common sense) to confirm this every time you have the wheel off. I know this to be good advise but seem to have slipped my mind that last few times. At the very least spray them down with cleaner so as to remove grime that accumulates around the pistons on the seals. Also, I think it worth mentioning that I replace the fluid every 12 to 15 months.

 

I TOTALLY agree...!!
The pulsation with the brakes is due to a sticking caliper.... Has happened to me 2X... I'm gonna be due for brakes next year, so I'm buying the new calipers NOW and painting them and servicing them BEFORE they go on the truck.....

Talk about rust.... Why don't they paint the F'n things....(just bot a new corolla...for the wife...it's got painted calipers)...???? WTF..??

I never would have thought that the calipers were doing this.... till I figured it out...!!