Alignment is good, but tires at still scalloping?

40 in the front 38 rear

 

No I am not saying that (I lived in Texas 5 years I know what goes on)

I am saying keep the tires and lose your expectation that you can
fix the tire wear issue. They are fine. Those tires are beasts and
being perfectly balanced and built at the factory by robots is not
on the menu....they have super grip and can get you anywhere, but
expect them to chuff off on the knobs on the roads


you are doing 'severe duty' so start saving up for tires, they are gonna wear out

 

I hear what your saying now. I put a lot of miles on two trucks down here. I am realistic when it comes to running mud tires on road they will go pretty fast. I was making sure that issue was with the tires instead of my front end!

And you ar spot on about severe duty! My Firestone AT on the dodge have great mileage but they were chewed up quick down here! I just figured something had to be wrong because it wasn't until the past few thousand miles they started cupping bad! My bushings look a little shot also. So that's why I was asking for what other people have done!

 

I have replaced many a cupped tire that should have lasted longer...running dirt roads at high speeds is tough on trucks and tires. I bet your airfilters have a short life and the oil is black when you change it.

I drive dirt and gravel roads every day, and the high milage vehicles get expensive name brand tires...

 

Like I said earlier, once a mud tire starts cupping, you are not going to get it to stop. How often do you rotate them? When I was running my superswampers on the highway, I was rotating them every 1500 miles and they still cupped. I was rotating my kuhmos every 3k and they started cupping towards the end of their life. It's what mud tires do. That is why they get louder with time.

 

I do them every 5k miles. This will be about the 4th time. It just seams like this last time has caused them to accelerate in wear???

I run a pro dry s and a K&N. I also have had Mobile 1 in the engine since day 1 and at 198k she is still like new! But I change oil ever 5-7500 depending on conditions!

 

pipelines ? severe duty mang !!!!!!!

there is no harder job on earth for equipment. only mining is about equal.

 

It's rough on trucks! The mountains and swamps you have to drag your trucks in and out. Then whenever your down south here you have the dust, heat and horrible roads. So it is always something with a vehicle!

 

and picking lunch I mean dillos outta the grille

 

that seems over inflated IMO

I run 34 F and 32 R (285/75/16)(Ext.Cab)

D-cab is somewhat heavier...
so I might push that up a little
say... 36 F and 34 R

then do a chalk test

what wheel width ?

Another thing...

If the itre's have any play in them...
or the Steering Rack Guide has play in it...

those could cause irregular wear to the tires
because the alignment may not be staying correct when driven
and/or movement is occurring with the internal rack assembly.

The steering racks on these trucks are junk...
and not very durable when larger tires are installed.

I'm on my 4th steering rack...
and on that 4th rack...
I already had to correct (upgrade) the rack's guide.

The newer designed guide discontinues the roller...
and now uses a solid guide that has no roller.

How to tell which rack guide you have !?

Generally early 1st gen. Tacoma have the older guide style
and '01 -'04 should have the newer...
But I'm not really sure what model year that change occurred.

Sooo...

Look at the guide cover(cap) on the driver's side of the rack housing...
If the cap protrudes... it is of the older design.
If that cap is inverted inwards... it's the newer designed guide.

Of course to be sure... the guide cover/cap needs to be pulled.

Don't worry it's dry inside there...
as the rack's inboard fluid seal is nearer center of the rack housing.

^ if you find fluid inside the guide's housing...
the inner seal has gone bad...
and after that... it'll likely leak into the itre boot.
Once that occurs the rack needs replacement.

I'm betting it's the rack guide... if the itre's are good.

This thread should help with more visuals...

 

If you have wider then stock tires and a stock spec alignment. Your gunna get bad wear. I think stock alignment is slightly toe in.

 

^ tho' wider tires can become fubar'd more quickly
if components or align. specs are not up to par

wider tires do not wear funky without reason.
Improper inflation, alignment specs or fubar components
are more likely to be found as culprit.

false generalized claims are fubar

I've been running wider tires since forever...
never had any issue regarding your claim.

 

I got bad wear on mine. On a recommendation from a buddy who works at a shop i Set them slightly out from spec and they are wearing better. The stock settings are not intended for wide tires and a lift...

 

You are somewhat correct about the toe-in settings
with regards to the factory align. specs. and overly wide tires.

Wider tires may roll more freely with slightly less toe-in
to help minimize scrub off.
But that may also create a slight wandering effect when driven.

My 11.65" width tires run the factory align. settings...
and without issue.
Tho' my caster settings are not ideal, they are within spec.

Not having enough caster can often lead to odd tire wear.
Excessive susp. lift (more then 2.5"(4X) can fubar caster further.
And this can amplify the issue. (caster spec is 1.5-1.9 I believe)
A suspension lift that pushes caster below 1.5 is bad news.


Now if yer running 37 x 1250... maybe.
reducing the toe-in + increasing the caster on those may be of help.

But I'll put my money on the more likely fact...
that something else is aggravating your situation.

I've rolled wider tires since 2000
never had issue with the oem align. specs.

There are many factors to consider when odd tire wear occurs.
Many folk improperly lift the suspension beyond its design capability.

If one is going to push the suspension beyond 2.5" (4X)
they should be investing in aftermarket upper control arms.
that can alter the caster geometry and allow for more caster in the alignment settings.

 

i have 12.50s it may also be that im running poor mans beadlocks. My rims are an inch narrower than what procomp recommends. Im not to concerned because i plan to sell the tires before they get below halfway anyways

 

I have the same tires. I run 18 all the time. As I see Offroad on a daily basis. What size tires are they? If they are 35x12.50x17 ill buy them from ya.

 

Damn read the first post again. Good luck with the tires I love them.

 

^ that explains it

 

Check your Ball joints yourself. Jack up the front about 1 inch off the ground. Put jack under the lower control arm and pry up under the tire and see if you have any play up and down for Ball joint. Then side to side with hands on tire at 3 and 9 o'clock see if you have any movement this position checking is going to see if tie rods and linkages are good. Don't take somebody's word they may not know really there self. They can say they checked it but may not have. Just my .02

Sittingbull

 

well if your tires are cupping
most likely it is a bad buishing
if you have lr uca's
CHECK THEM
I JUST RUINED A BRAND NEW SET OF TIRES due to their pos bushings
if your alingment #s are good it may just be that.....
talking from much exp. here
its very easy to check.....
pop off the ball joint and you will know right away