Max's wanna be overland build

Craftsman has a damn good warranty don't they? I thought with craftsman if you break it they replace it no questions asked for life.

 

They will.

After that hex broke we used a harbor freight one that we were sure would fail too but it didn't.

 

I see! haha Nice!

 

Yeah Ill take em back and get new ones but clearly I need an upgrade.

 

Still waiting on word from Cortez, she told me she'll know the end of this week. So I've got my fingers crossed! Then I can maybe start working on the cruiser. Till then I've got a bumper in the works and just outlining my plan of attack.

Need to research on what kind of sound deadening I can line the floor boards with that is water proof and won't trap water in the floor.

 

Cool stuff

 

Thanks!

 

Hey Max how many miles do you have on your truck?

 

Why do you ask?

It's not a secret or anything just curious. 67k

 

Just curious because it seems like you actually use your truck, have pretty good reliability, and you have major modifications. I eventually want to go with 35's, but I just wasn't sure when I should do them. I can't now cause of the cash, but I want to have a plan.

 

I've had a couple minor problems but nothing too rough. My inner cv boots did finally give out but they dry rotted right at the shaft, nothing to do with wearing through. Just got it all put back together actually.

Should have just ordered they Toyota kit but I decided since those boots lasted for shit I'd try some beck anrley. Well I guess maybe it's not a bad kit but comes with really obnoxious clamps and I had to go down to the store to get some different kinds, didn't make it to Toyota in time. Anthony gave me the toyota clamp part #s though.
On top of that I had a hell of time even with a 3 jaw puller getting the damn tripod off. Had a hell of a time getting all back on too. Ended up popping off the 3 little deals and baking it in the oven, then with a 1 1/8 socket IIRC I pounded it back on. What a bitch.

Anyway...

I guess all I really do is change the fluids frequently and grease the drivelines often. At about 45k I replaced the front hub seals because I noticed it was chewed up (when I was doing my re-gear) and the garder spring was broken and the other one was in shit shape too. That made me nervous about the front wheel bearings and they were kinda making a grinding noise. Swapped in some new ones and pulled all the races apart, one had some real nasty grease in it but no pitting or scoring on the races or rollers so they probably could have run a great while longer but hey live and learn. Then I blew up that side gear at moab and had to replace the 3rd and shaft and bearing(old bearing looked good though!). I guess I also had a brake lock up on me, some shit got bent in the drum, I think when my e-brake locked up on me while wheeling with some guys out of Salt Lake City up American Fork Canyon, I had to drive F and R until the damn thing popped. Then about 4 months later it just locked up in a parking lot. But yeah...

Oh and I killed a no. 2 idler with a bunch of mud and nasty water.

 

Posted this in another thread but figured since we're on the topic here, may as well cross post it.

68k on my stock brakes, checked pad thickness tonight. 5.2mm I figure I have another 45k at least, and I'll check my rotors then.

Standard thickness:
11.5 mm (0.453 in.)
Minimum thickness:
1.0 mm (0.039 in.)

Using a micrometer, measure the disc thickness.
Standard thickness:
28.0 mm (1.102 in.)
Minimum thickness:
26.0 mm (1.024 in.)

Just for kicks

Provisionally fasten the disc with the hub nuts.
Torque: 113 N*m (1,152 kgf*cm, 83 ft.*lbf)
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the disc runout 10
mm (0.39 in.) away from the outer edge of the disc.
Maximum disc runout:
0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)
(c) If the disc runout is the maximum value or greater,
check the bearing play in the axial direction and
check the axle hub runout (see page AH-1). If the
bearing play and axle hub runout are normal, adjust
the disc runout or grind it on an on-car brake lathe.

As long as mine aren't warped and have plenty of thickness left I'll just run em with new Toyota pads when it comes time. YMMV

 

I'm so lost in your thread now. Did you downgrade your truck so you could buy another rig?





What's that thing hanging on the rear door?

 

haha kinda

I bought the 80 -- scale back this truck
got money for me -- sale of the gears
less worried about breaking the rear end again
better fuel economy?

that's a ham antenna mount for my 2m radio

 

So I cut a sidewall pretty good, I was at 12psi and getting it pretty good though. None-the-less, add the thorn through the sidewall of the other tire and that's 2 sidewall incidents(in a month), the former I plugged and have been running since. Firestone MT's aren't doing so hot. 10 ply too.

 

Never was a fan of Firestones. Wife got some on a car and they were bald in 6 months. We got some on a car & the tread seperated on two of them with less then 10K miles on them.
Stones suck.
Look at Mick's lips and tell me they don't.

 

It's too bad because I like the looks, and they're not too loud, and they ride fine. Just seem to have weak sidewalls. I mean I've killed some BFGs too but I wheeled those for a long time before killing them and this is 2 in a month...

Time will tell but I think I'll be running mismatched tires before long.

 

If someone quotes that post above...



Matt

 

I seriously have about 1700 photos so I just selected based on thumbnails hoping they'd be good. I have a few more to upload yet.

 

Once again great shots Max.
Are all the pics from the same trip?
Where did you go?
Is that a GoPro on your hood?