Sound Deadening Doors with RAAM Audio Products

For future reference, you can use rubber cement as well. Super glue is not ductile (doesn't bend). Rubber cement allows for some flex where the cone meets the surround. I've put a screwdriver through a sub surround before, and the rubber cement held up to many years of abuse.

 

OK....so I finally got my box from Mr. Marv and managed to finish the installation. Here are some pictures of that installation....

 

is that a HAT I10SW? how do you like it?

 

HAT I10SW? Not sure what that is.

 

it's a 10" subwoofer from Hybrid Audio Technologies. the inverted surround led me to believe that's what you have.

 

Doh!... Yes, I have the 10" Sub from Hybrid Audio inside a custom box by Mr Marv.

It sounds great!

 

nice! i was contemplating going with that, but after much research decided on the IDQ10. that hybrid sub is very efficient and should get loud with little power.

 

I have component speakers that I'm about to install. If the wires are run to a crossover and amp on the back wall of the truck, I can simply disconnect the harness going to the stock speakers, right?

The component speakers are not wired directly to the Kenwood double DIN. They are wired to the crossover and then the amp goes to the head unit with RCA cables.

 

yea, if you're going to wire the new speakers directly the crossover/amp, then you can just disconnect the stock speaker connections. wherever you end up disconnecting them (either in door or behind HU), i suggest you apply electrical tape (or equivalent) over the exposed wire so you don't accidentally short out the HU's speaker outputs.

 

So Package #1 from RAAM covered all 4 doors and you still had enough for the back wall? That's pretty impressive. Can you tell a significant difference in sound quality and exterior noise reduction? Worth the money for the deadener?

 

Yes, I had enough to do all 4 doors and the back wall. It made a huge difference in the sound and was very impressive. I've never done sound deadening before so I had no idea what to expect. No vibrations of the metal, all the sound is kept inside the truck, less road noise, etc.. (Very impressed!) I thought it was worth the money.

 

Nice. So you only did the recessed metal parts on the back wall?

BTW, where in NJ are you?

 

That's correct. I spoke to Mr Marv about it and he advised that it would be plenty to achieve my goal. Plus he mentioned that it would make the fit of the sub box tighter had I covered the entire back wall.

I am in the South Brunswick area of central NJ.

 

Did try to put the material inside the entire channel where you ran the cables, or only parts where it was open?

 

Only in areas that were open and easily accessible.

 

Quick question I see where a 3 way speaker is not necessary for the front door speakers as there already is a factory tweeter is a 2 way ok??

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html
How would these be?

 

You will be fine with a 2 way and those jl speakers will do the trick. 3 way would definitely require some crazy modifications and will take a lot of time to tune. 2 way is much simpler and will give a you good sound.

 

Did you have to call them to get the discount or was there someway to do it online? I want to do my doors and back wall for sure. I've also thought about doing something under the front seats but i'm not sure what all I would need.

Curious what the MrMarv box cost you as well if you don't mind disclosing.

 

Yes, I had to call to get the discount.

I've been told that the floor would be a waste of time and money. Focus on deadening the doors, back wall and possibly the roof. (That's what I've been told.)

The cost of the box will vary depending on what you want, and what type of sub is going in there. Give him a call and he'll gladly offer some options and prices. (Very nice guy to work with and he knows his stuff!)