E-locker actuator

Part # 41450-35010 E-locker actuator. Can anyone tell me what all years this # will fit? Also, I need the nuts and bolts that correspond to mount it. Are they available through one of the online OEM parts vendors?

 

Not sure why I haven't received any responses. This is new to me. Do I need to do something else too. This happened on another post that I had too.

 

further google search has verified that this part goes from 95.9-08.05... Hit up camelbacktoyota in the vendors section, Jorge can get you straight! Or go online and find a parts diagram.

http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329
to save you some time

 

Thank you. I have the part already. Found a sweet deal on it. Now I just have to research the install and hardware.

 

If its just the front diff actuator its literally just 4 bolts, might need some rtv for a complete seal

 

title says e locker actuator...not ADD for the front.



op, the e locker motor is bolted in through the 2 long studs on the drivers side of the housing and one bolt that goes through locker actuator into the third member housing. you do not seal it when you put it on. what project are you working on?

 

But the part number is for add front actuator

 

then wtf is this guy talkin about lol

 

Not sure where you found your info but, part # is for rear diff.

This truck was from New York originally. Therefore the frame has been replaced as of 2011 I think probably because of the massive amounts of salt and snow. I did the gray wire mod without knowing the actuator was seized. Tried to take it off and inspect and it started to crumble to pieces. I came across a used one for a nominal price and here I am.

@ID, to your knowledge, are the long studs available from the dealer? I am striking out at the online OEM vendors. As you probably guessed, I snapped one trying to take this thing off.

Thanks for the help.

 

My bad guys ha still had the part number saved in my copy and paste from looking at parts, as for the bolts I think I have a PDF saved from when I did my conversion that has damn near every bolt listed

 

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page...ountry=(12=USA)&sectionID=&componentsID=41-01

This what you're looking for ?

 

you snapped a stud taking off the actuator haha? how did you manage that? The motor should just pry out.

anyway, yes. the studs are available from the toyota parts counter. There are 11 studs that hold the rear third member in. 7 short ones, 2 slightly longer ones, and 2 very long studs (these ones are black) that go through the e locker motor. You will have to pull the third member to put the new studs back in the housing, but thats not hard at all. the studs just screw into the housing. I would recommend getting the studs from toyota because they are the correct length, however if you have to buy nuts and bolts get them from a screw/bolt store. toyota wanted about a dollar a piece for each nut and bolt, i got all 11 nuts and bolts in grade 8 for 2.30 from a local bolt store.

 

I imagine its because of all the corrosion and not enough PB Blaster. I can't wait until I have this locker working.

@Afro, wondering if I have to drain all of the diff fluid for this fix? And thanks for the link you posted. I will check it out.
Is there a good write up about this fix somewhere? I found the e-locker fix thread on another site, should I just use that resource?

 

yes you will have to drain the fluid since you need to pull the third to fix it. have you ever removed a third member? I would take the time to type it out but its easier to show you. here is a link to my build where i swapped axles. should cover the basics.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-builds/193487-idtrucks-build-thread-13.html#post6912852



basically you need to drain the diff, loosen/remove all 11 nuts from the third member, unbolt the brake lines from the hubs (crimp the brake lines to prevent fluid loss) unbolt the hub from each end of the housing with the 4 bolts holding it on. then pull the axle shafts/hub assembaly out about 4-5" (careful not to scratch the housing or splines when pulling it out) then pull the third member off the studs and set it aside. then you can put in the new stud(s), re seal it up, put the third back in, put the axle shafts back in and reconnect the brake lines.

 

Like id said you will have to drain it and I had a link to a rebuild I found but didn't know if you had already ordered one, if give the rebuild a shot first unless you have a really good deal on one

 

First, I really appreciate the help from both of you.

Secondly, I am not sure where I steered you all in the wrong direction. So let me clarify.
I am only wanting to fix my broken actuator. With that said, do I still need to pull out the third member in order to install the new one.
Sorry if I wasn't so clear on the matter.

 

I'm pretty sure ou can remove just the actuator but don't quote me ha here's the link I found earlier

http://rodnh.byethost12.com/tacoma/locker.htm

 

Thanks. I have read that and I will use that as a reference.

 

so did you snap a stud or not? Are you just not going to fix it? Maybe you are confusing terms here and are saying you snapped something you did not.

to JUST replace the motor you do not need to drain the oil or pull the third. just unbolt the whole actuator from the third and swap em.

 

@ID, is there a stud that holds on the actuator?