Long Travel BS Thread

Word Ill put you on the list if the others dont work out

 

quick question, I'm going to be replacing all the uniballs on my camburg kit and was wondering what exactly I need to get. for the upper arm will just any 1" uniball work and same for the lowers where they pivot at the frame. are they just standard 1" uniballs or is it a part that must be bought through camburg?

 

Are you looking at cash priority?

 

Cash always talks

 

That's not bad at all. Sounds like I don't even need to ho fixed yoke on the transmission.

 

So it doesn't appear any of the auto shops in my local town are set up to nitrogen charge shocks.

Poly has a kit for about $400. We have a scuba shop in town, I would guess they could fill it.

Anyone have a better idea how to go about getting a nitrogen charge for some shocks?

 

Camburg uses junk bearings, they are hard chromed balls with steel races. You can use better bearings like the fk wssx series, but sometimes the snap rings are tough because the race is .005“ wider on those bearings. They are also more expensive but hold up to the elements better. Camburg uses the aurora aib-16t bearings. You don't have to buy direct from camburg

 

Try discount tire stores. Or buy a uniweld regulator off eBay for 55$ and a small tank at your local welding store for 100$ and have your own

 

Can't u go to a moto/snowmobile type shop? Think all of those r set up for nitro

 

i would do what MCM said and get your own set up. and also the fact that no where in your town is set up for filling them.

 

Edited

 

The big thing is finding a gauge/regulator that will go to 300psi or more. that's why a lot of places cant fill them.

Bingo! Any Camburg upper's or LT kits we service get FK's swapped out.

This.... Some discount's have a reg that can handle it. But you may have luck at a paintball store if you can take the shocks off and bring them in as well.

 

motorcycle shop, they will have the right stuff.

 

Does anyone know the demensions to camburg upper control arm bushings? I having Lsk machine a set of delrin and they need the demensions. I dont have time to pull the uppers and measure my self so if anyone knows that would be awesome

 

could it be 1 3/4" .120 wall? which means the diameter of the bushing should be 1.51". Measure the length easily with the arms on, and measure the shoulder with the arms on. then all you have to do is figure out what size bolt and crush sleeve you are running.

 

Question about relocating my battery to the bed -

Instead of grounding the battery at the frame in the bed, and dealing with the original grounds from the motor and body up front, what if I just ran a negative cable all the way from the battery back to the battery's original location and fastened it to a remote battery terminal.

Basically move the battery, run positive and negative cables right back to where the battery used to be, and install two remote battery terminals. Wire up all the stock wires to those terminals, add a remote fuse block, and have a circuit breaker on the positive cable between the battery and the new terminals.

Am I on track here?

 

I personally just ran the positive from the bed back to the original battery positive connection and ran the ground under the bed.

 

that's what I did to except I used a fuse block to distribute power back to everything. There are plenty of good grounds on the frame rails below the bed.

 

What did you do with the ground wires that used to run to the battery under the hood?

Should be one from the engine and one from the body, right?

For the positive cable, you just spliced it right into the positive cables that used to run to the positive terminal?

 

The original negative battery terminal should be bolted to the frame and properly cleaned and grounded. The cables running to the battery should very thick and heavy (I think i used 00 in my trans am). Running two cables is pretty pointless as the frame will most likely have less resistance than most wires people use.

FWIW I electrical engineer