Forced Induction Mods- What's next?

So after reading the URD Walbro fuel pump install, I'm wondering if pulling the bed and bumper isn't easier too. Do you have a good write up on the bed pull method?

 

APR recommends a smaller pulley for some significant power gains at my altitude. I'm going to pull my s/c snout and do some machining. Also recommended a full exhaust which I can't argue with and will try and do ASAP. At this altitude, intake and exhaust mods really help the motor breathe. And that's what's holding my power back- air flow. Once I do these mods, I'll probably need some of the extra fuel capacity of the W155. Right now, I have plenty of fuel though, even at 6,200rpms! This truck with another 40Hp is going to be rediculous. URD 2.825" pulley for sale.

 

If your truck is lifted, it is very easy to do the install. Just have less than 5 gallons in the tank, and drop it. Hell, I have done them on DJM lowered Xrunners in literally 30 minutes. Including putting it on stands.

 

Its a 4X4, barely lifted. I'll try the drop the tank approach with an empty tank. I should be able to do this without a tranny jack for the tank I hope. Do you use a big ass strap wrench to remove tank retainer ring or will something else work? Thanks for the advice, this looks pretty straight forward. I can't turn wrecnhes yet (post surgery) so this will have to wait a couple weeks. I'll probably do the snout mods at the same time and work on a new exhaust quote. Then she'll be ready for another pull on that DD dyno!

 

I just mark the big white ring in a couple spots. Then with a large flat head and a hammer, tap it loose. Then the opposite to tighten. Until the marks line back up.

 

Can anyone give some tips or a write up about removing the truck bed? Or is it easy to remove the tank? My truck is not lifted so I am leaning toward removing the bed. Is the truck bed removal pretty straight forward?

 

I will say that with my 2.825" pulley w/ reflash/stock pump/stock FPR when i put the vacuum line to the S/C nipple my AFR's on Torque are leaner than when its put to the intake. When its connected to the S/C nipple it throws the CEL P0174 and p0171 instantly, Either way it throws the P0174 (i believe) for lean on bank 2 eventually.

With the line to the Intake i can go a week without a CEL, as soon as i connect to the S/C it throws it immediately.

Under full throttle w/line to the intake Torque shows the called for AFR at like 10.7 and metered AFR at 12-11.9 i believe.

Any thoughts Tor?

 

Two things.

First, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak, and or are creating a vacuum leak.

Secondly, upgrade your fuel pump. Seriously.

Some pictures of how your engine bay looks when you do the FPR mod. The s/c area, the intake where the nipple is, and how it is when you have the vacuum routing in the factory style.

Also, on the driver side of the s/c where the hoses plug onto the s/c above the valve cover.

 

Hey sorry man havnt been on here, will do my best to get these for ya.

I also want to get a boost gauge installed this week to test the vac leak theory.

Been workin on my miata the last month or so prepping for its own boost

 

Hey guys, always reading you with interest. Always appreciate Torsp comments.

About the FPR and fuel pump.

I've bought a fuel pump from URD with the 2.85 pulley but didn't install it yet. Ok my set up is a TRD CAI 1st gen with an AFE ProDryS, DTLT headers, TRD catback, TRD SC and reflash, URD 2.85 stealth pulley and URD MAF controller. oh and i've done the OEM FPR mod.

Since these works, i've done a lot of data logging and fine tune on the fuel map of the MAF controller. It doesn't seem to have any problem with the fule pump cause at WOT, in fact i've to reduce a lot the amount of fuel between 3000 to 5500 rpm (fuel map cells from 10 to 9.4) to lean the mixture from 10 to 11-11.5 AFR. But i can see from the data and the fuel map that the AFR is getting just a bit leaner near 5 500 rpm (fuel map cell 9.5) but there is still room before having a problem of lean mixture. Based on that, if i'm adding any mod and still increase power, i will swap the fuel pump for the wallbro HP.

I'Ve not seen any problem with the FPR mod and it has not generated any error code. The only thing is, i feelthe truck hesitating when giving him throttle at low rpm. Let say you're running at 1000-1500 rpm and 15-25% throttle and depress the pedal to 35-40%. I'm investigating on that if you have any comments cause we are still in closed loop in this area and my trims are near 0 all the way.

Oh in fact i'm having error code . The check engine light and traction control light are lighting up when i spin the Wheels on a start (the wheels were not really spinning before the SC). It's a low mass air flow sensor input probably caused by the traction control trying to close the throtle to avoid spinning. I remove the code, and everything is ok until i spin the wheels again . Last dyno was 298.2 RWHP at 5500 rpm and 328.6 lbs-ft at 3700 rpm. Max boost 7.5 psi.

Any body know what would be the gain by installing NST pulley kit with the overdrive crank pulley. Pro and Con.

Sorry fot he english quality and not trying to steal the thread but infos and question are related to original thread.

 

If you pull the ABS relay then you can do a burn out.

Is the fact that you want to add the NST overdrive pulley because you do not want to add a smaller upper pulley and have to cut the snout? If so, then you need at least the water pump pulley as well. And would need to swap in better bearings for the NST idler pulleys. They are smaller than the OEM s/c idler pulleys, spin faster, but have bearings that just don't last long.

Plus, NST no longer makes the kits, so getting one means someone has to sell one.

I would honestly get the snout cutting tool from URD, and just get a smaller upper pulley. All in all an easier mod to deal with.

An easier bolt on mod would be the URD Y-pipe though. And that will give you some strong gains with your current setup.

Both though.......... now that will make you smile like a little kid.

 

Thanks Torsp.

I'm taking note of your comments about NST pulleys and the smaller SC pulleys. Dont want to cut the snoot before the end of warranty.

The problem with the URD Y-pipe for the 4x4 is the routing that seems to be different from the OEM one. It is crossing under the transmission instead of under the transfer case and i already have a specific skid plate to protect the exhaust and the transfer case. I will have to check the Y-pipe from DougThorley to see if the routing is OK.

What about the hesitation on the throttle? Do you think it can be related to the FPR mode. Maybe the vacuum generated by the SC on the diaphragm when quickly depressing the pedal at low rpm is too important creating a low fuel pressure for just a little moment. Hummm... I will try to data log this problem and see what's happening there.

 

To test the FPR mod theory is quite simple. Just cap the FPR and the line feeding it. Doubtful that is the case. More likely it is the 90L pedal recall that is standard on all of the newer models.

 

Hi Torsp,

The 90L recall was not about pedal that stuck in the floor mat?

I've done a check end when pedal depress at low rpm(1500-2000), when in closed loop, the mixtuxe is getting rich fast than come back to 14.5 AFR.

Fuel is coming in faster then air! A throttle body with a too long response time? Still investigating.

 

Yes, but it works by cutting throttle when the one set of wheels are spinning faster than another set. So if you remove the ABS relay, you effectively bypass that function, and are allowed full wheel spin. Try your test with the relay removed.

 

Hi, I own a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 V6, and Some time ago I had installed a TRD (Black) Supercharger and A TRD Long Headers, but the damn thing has not worked at all, incredibly I am getting no boost at all, later I installed a boost gauge and to confirm my theory on idle is in -20 but when in acceleration the needle will only go up to 0 boost, the pick up runs as if nothing is installed and I'm going crazy here, the dealer did not do a reflash or anything to the ECU nor they give me answers on my problem, so besides a TRD Air filter I have done nothing else to the engine, Did I waste my money ? Am I doing something wrong or did I miss something else, I really need help here, Thanks

 

Seems to me that: your belt doesn't have enough tension on it, you have a massive boost leak, and or your bypass valve is stuck open.