Top Tier Detergent Gasoline

Oh okay.

 

Gas may vary based on how close you are to a refinery - the gas for a given city may come from one or several refineries. As previously stated, the difference is the additive package specified by the brand and/or retailer. For instance we have a refinery here in Memphis. Some gas comes in from out of town, but most comes from the local refinery and the additive pack is added at the rack when the tanker truck is filled. They even have a pipeline from the refinery to our airport for jet fuel.

For places still selling ethanol-free gas, check pure-gas.org.

 

There's a whole thread about Costgo gas rolling around here somewhere. I used it a few times a couple years ago, but no more. By tracking everything, I found that I was getting a 6% monetary savings ($3.75 vs $4.00) over buying Shell, but I was losing 25% in efficiency (12 MPG vs 16) under the exact same driving conditions. No brainer--no more Costco gas. Now it's only Shell (V-power on road trips) or Chevron unless I'm in BFE and have to buy local sewer water to get back.

 

The ethanol industry has a HELL of a lobbiest group.

 

I ran Costco and Sam's gas in my dirtbike for a couple of years.
If I didn't get back out to the dez for a few months, I'd have to rebuild the carb AND rejet. Within 3 months, every brass part was covered with what looked like mold... a green "fuzz" but it would not wipe off, even after soaking in carb cleaner. It was some kind of corrosion. Didn't affect the zinc parts, just the brass.

And yes... I drained the tank, opened the bowl drain, and ran the engine until the carb was dry before parking it.
Never had that problem once I went to Chevron.

 

Same. It's the only Top Tier around this area. I checked out that link years ago and discovered that after using Costco for years.

 

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That green corrosion was the gasoline attacking the copper in the brass. Someone done goofed. Gasoline is supposed to meet copper corrosion specifications; there are a number of ways to "treat" or blend the gasoline to meet this specification.

 

Ok people FUEL is FUEL is dont matter where you buy it at..IT comes on the same pipelines as the rest of them... To be honest even the fuel depots where i went to pick up your fuel even they dont even know if its exxon,shell, phillips in there tanks. the list goes on i have cards for fuel company's you NEVER heard of but yet you use them... i have a wallet full of cards for them for the depots.

Additives like in shell are add as the transfer to our trucks as it loaded..

GAS IS GAS PEOPLE...

Take it from someone who as transfered over 20 million gals of fuel... Job i dont want to get back into but my current job doesnt look so good.

 

^^^

 

It happened more than once, with both Sam's and Costco, and purchased at stores in different counties.

 

It's a burden I've learned to bear

 

Geographic area doesn't really matter if everyone buys out of the same tank of bad gasoline.

A very major refiner on the Gulf Coast had to pay for repairs to quite a few people's gas tanks a few years ago because they sold gasoline didn't meet the silver specs and a large city and surrounding area was affected.

If someone made a batch of bad gasoline and sold it, a lot of people are going to hurt.

 

I just don't buy it anymore.

Wife puts that shit in her Rav4... my vehicles have always taken a steady diet of Chevron.
Taco gets better mileage than her '04 Rav, even though her's has a higher EPA rating.

 

Honestly NO... its all in your mind. Alot of stuff oil companies talk about alot of stuff but alot is just plain BS... Engines today are advanced and ecms are advanced enough to handle fuels without additives..

Remember one thing some additives can screw with o2 sensors and screw up cats so be careful when using additives. Some additives DONT burn and leave a film behind.

Its like diesel fuel do you see grades for them? NO.. High and low sulfer. High sulfer is for heating Oil and like farm tractors and low sulfer is for highway use.. Diesel engines one thing that can be a factor is algae.. Same could be said for all gasoline(fuel) it will turn into turpentine additive or not..

 

Then there's my results with Safeway grocery store gas. You're trying, she's not.

 

Fuel storage is sealed in modern stuff so it will recondense if it really gets in excess of 150*, any engine can tolerate 5% water. The biggest issue is the fact ethanol dissolves shellac storage tanks, boat tanks, lawn mowers etc. this of course plugs things up. Boats have all ways had issues with water in the tanks long before ethanol fuels. I would say if anything it was more dry carbs and corrosion from evaporation. I don’t like the ethanol ideal because I only get 9 out of 10 gallons of what I went to the gas station for but it really poses no problem for fuel systems in normal use. 285K of ethanol use in my “97” 2.7 Taco and it was mostly only used only in the fall and winter during the last years I owned it.

 

Evaporation itself does not cause corrosion. You have to have a very specific series of events and chemical reactions to occur for there to be corrosion.

Brother, hate to say this but you're really misinformed. Additives aren't there to instantly clean your engine, or if you get a batch of bad gas your engine is going to explode or cease working or whatever. The additives that you see marketed by Chevron, XOM, Shell, etc are added because they help protect the engine over time. All things being equal, I can guarantee that if you were to dissect two engines that have been run for 50k miles, one with top tier additives and one that hasn't, you will see a difference. You can run gasoline that has zero additives but you're much more at the mercy of the overall quality of gasoline you're buying. There is another set of additives that refiners add at the refinery (usually) when whatever they're producing, like gasoline or diesel, aren't meeting spec... whatever those specs may be.

Also, there are different grades of diesel that are sold on the market. Not a whole lot of marketing goes into selling diesel to the average John Q Public consumer, because by design and the physical properties of diesel, diesel engines are a lot more flexible (not as sensitive) when it comes to the type of diesel used. The biggest differentiator between diesel grades is the cetane number. Most everyday equipment like your Home Depot diesel generator or diesel pickup require a Cetane number of 45-55. Heavy equipment, like diesel locomotives for example, require a different cetane number for their engines to run like they should. USLD and LSD are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to diesel fuels.

 

Agreed

 

Lol let them. This is my business.