newbie question on 4.0L V6 oil sludge

Toyota had a major recall for engine oil sludge damage - mostly '97 - '01 Avalon, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Celica and Lexus 300/RX models. Based on my web search the late mode 4.0 V6 found in the '05 up Tundras doesn't have the sludge problem.

The '06 Tundra DC 4.0L 4X4 I purchased a couple of weeks ago with 35K on the odometer hasn't been driven much in the last couple of months. It did get a 40 mile highway trip from the seller to my house. A few days ago while exploring the engine bay I was pretty shocked to see the oil filler tube and the inside of the oil cap coated with about 2 - 3 mm of gray oil/water emulsion.

The PO had the engine oil changed by the dealer at ~5 - 6K miles but as mentioned it has been in a "parked" mode for the last two months. The temp gauge moves normally suggesting that the thermostat is OK

Is this sludge build up normal?

Questions:
1. Being aaanal compulsive I change oil + filter every 3K miles. Will this eliminate the curent oil/condensation syndrome?
2. What a wimpy oil filter - IMHO a weenie-sized filter belongs on a lawn tractor. What are options - change filter between oil changes or an aftermarket external oil filter with a full-size, full-flow filter?
3. I'd like to use 10/30# from April to Nov (here in MD) rather than the recommended 5/30#. I wouldn't think that this would void the warranty. Comments?
4. Does the 4.0L V6 have a flat or roller cam/lifter system?

Thanks in advance, Tony

 

1. The oil condensation issue is common with this engine. You'll see some other folks comment on that, I'm sure.

2. The OEM filter is fine. Toyota recommends a 5K OCI so there shouldn't be a problem. HOWEVER, I prefer a better filter like the Purolator PureOne.

3. No, it won't "void the warranty". A warranty can't be "voided". The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (in the USA) states that the manufacturer must be able to prove that something you did, mod or otherwise, caused the failure in order to deny you warranty coverage. Using 10w30 instead of 5w30 shouldn't do a bit of harm. I personally would just use 5w30 because that's what the engine calls for but it's up to you.
4. I have no idea.

Of course, you have to consider that I'm a dog and you're a cat and, as my mortal enemy, I may be misleading you.

 

Thanks for the info.

Interesting that condensation/oil issues are inherent to this engine.

Is the OEM thermostat spec'd at 190 degrees F?

I asked about flat vs. roller cams because of the EPA mandaged elimination of anti-friction additives (ZDDP) in commercially available oil formulations last fall. If the 4.0L V6 is a flat cam engine then I'm will to consider additives such as GM's Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) and/or ZDDPlus. A better option may be the Brad Penn Racing, or other oil brands, that are formulated with ZDDP.

Tony

 

I can't see any warranty problems, but you should use the oil recommended for the 4.0. There is a reason for Toyota doing that, just like Corvette installing Mobil One right out of the box.
Jeff V6, 06,SR5, 6spd, 4x4

 

As for the sludge, I had that problem a winter ago. I have a 05 prerunner 2wd with the 4.0 in it and at the time 90,000 miles. When I seen the sludge in the cap I freaked(cap half full). I called the dealer and he said it could be the PCV valve sticking or the short winter driving I was doing at the time that could cause the sludge. The short miles I was putting on it(2 to 5 mi) when it was so cold out did not let the engine warm enough to get the condensation out and in turn caused the sludge. I changed PCV and quit the short mile driving and sludge went away.
AS for the oil I change every 5000 mi as required by Toyota. I used to change every 3000 but my driving is 95% highway and not dusty. If I was out of normal driving conditions I would change every 3000 but found that was a waste of money.
The weight of the engine oil required by the manufacture is the one I use because they are the ones that built the engine. The 10-30 probably would not hurt the engine but like others suggest thats up to you. The oil ports in the engine are designed by engineers for a specfic weight. I used to overkill too and found that I was wasting my time and money so these days I go with what the manufacturer says to do.

 

I run 530 in the winter and 10 in the summer months haven't had an issue

 

Several things.

As mentioned above you need to get the oil up to temp to burn out the water. Sort trips are bad news, especially in cold weather.

You mention the tiny oil filter. Do you have the short one? Mine came with the short filter and I swapped in the taller one. If you have the short can, like 3 to 3-1/2" tall, that's the wrong filter! I don't recall the right number, maybe someone has that handy.

Use the Toyota factory filter. If you question that, do a search.

I recently took apart a 3.4 engine with 100K and was shocked by the sludge buildup. I've seen that in other engines as well. What I've started doing is adding Seafoam to the oil 200 - 300 mile before the oil change. That stuff really cleans up the oil passages. You wil see the oil blacken up pretty quickly if you have never done it, so it may take several oill changes to get it all out. On an older engine I would buy a bunch of cheap oil and repeat the treatment every few hundred miles till the bulk of it is out. You need to watch it and dump the oil when it gets black because it will load the filter too.

3K oil changes are just a waste. That whole fiasco was just a ploy to pump up maintenance revenues. That's when all these oil change outfits sprang up everywhere. The old standard was 7K back when engines were much dirtier, and oil not nearly as good. Good oil and filter changed every 5k to 7K with a Seafoam treatment is as good as it gets.

 

do you have evidence of this? put up or shut up

 

you tell me genius

 

Common sense. No large company would endorse another without some sort of kick back.