Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

I used the same settings as dry, and I was just under the truck cleaning the frame before putting anti-rust on. Not wet or dripping from either fill or drain plugs.

 

ok thank you I will be doing this tomorrow morning been letting em soak in pb blaster all day, maybe they will all break loose pretty easy.

 

I sprayed PB Blaster on mine for a full week before I tried it, once per day. I used a breaker bar and kept hitting it with a rubber mallet to break them loose. The only casualty was the rear diff fill plug got three corners rounded off. Got a new one for under $7.

Edit: I see your in Mississippi, so you should be good with your original plan. I'm in one of the worst spots of the U.S. for rust

 

I got my rear diff and transfer case changed but can't get the plug out of my front diff

 

subbed! great writeup!!!

 

I changed my front diff and t-case. t-case wasn't too bad, but front diff was solid black. I even filled it up a tiny bit and drained it again to get some of the extra goop out.

This was at 60k miles. The stealership said they did it at 40k. Lies.

 

The stealer ship is supposed to do mine today when they do my free oil change today hopefully they do it ill know they I couldn't get the plug out if my front diff I plan on trying to break it lose after they change it to make sure they did it but I did get the t case an rear done.

 

They charged me 49$ to do it with my fluid. They stripped the plus and got it out some how an put a new one in

 

im assuming its the fill plug? If it is take it out and antiseize that bitch before it locks on again.

 

No it was the drain plug on the front

 

I just finished both diffs and the transfer case. Was not bad at all I'm at 27,000 miles so figured I would do it now. All the plugs broke loose easily, front diff drain plug was definetly the tightest though. Put all synthetic in might just be in my head but it does seem to drive smoother. And it also seems smoother shifting into 4WD. If I can just talk myself into changing spark plugs I'll save some money!

 

That front diff was a pain. I couldn't get them out with a 1/2" socket wrench, had to get out the 3/4" and use an adaptor for the 1/2" allen socket. Even then I had a hard time.

I imagine they torque them tight because they can (since it's a steel case)? I don't think it's necessary to torque them that tight. I didn't use a torque wrench to put them back in, but I didn't put a lot of load on them and no leaks.

 

So if the front diff, rear diff and t-case are all the same size bolt can I replace all of them with the hex bolt pictured? And just to confirm is the hex bolt part #90341-18021? Also will these fit the transmission ? I plan to replace all of the drain and fill bolts because they're extremely rusted, look like crap and I fully expect to screw a few of them up in the process.

 

Found an aftermarket drain plug company... Goldplug.com


Here's the front diff drain bolt- http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Automotive_Drain_Plugs/AP24.html#.UejOWmS9LTo

 

Thanks 4 the link. Ain't cheap tho is it ?

 

I didn't think it was too bad.. Last time I picked up a Toyota one I paid about the same and its not magnetic

 

Magnetic is nice. Let us know how much it picks up next time you change it. Mine is stock so it would be interesting to know. Thanks. Curious George

 

It'll be a while before I order one. I just changed my diff fluid 10k miles ago and I change it every 30k. Unless I lock the front, re gear, or break something it'll be a year till I do it again.

But if I do order one ill share my experience

 

Is the thread the same for a 1st gen's front, transfer and rear diff? If so I'll get three of those mag plugs, not just for the mag but it would be nice to do away with the hex- my front is done, totally done for.

 

Thanks.