OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Any further word on longevity of the bushing from those who have it installed?

 

Do you mind giving the sizes of the parts ,washers ,etc for your home made puller?

did you have to grind the washers?

thanks

 

I just needed a good reason to pull the trigger on this. Will be ordering the ARB and gears for the front next week from ECGS. I just wish I could gear the rear at the same time, but Ill need to wait to get my core charge for the front back so I can pay for the rear. 4:88's here I come

 

I have had it installed for at least 40k miles. So far so good.

 

(1) 6" long 5/8 bolt & (2) nuts.
(2) 1.5" wahser 1/8 thick .. Thicker better
(1) 1/2" thick steel plate
I used angle grinder to grinder off 1/16" 2 parallel side
of the wahser.

 

Thanks ,I will give it a try .

 

Anyone know the best aftermarket CV axle replacement ? I pulled mine today and it has some slight needle bearing marks on one side . I plan on ordering the bushing monday .I guess the axle needs replacing also .Any feedback on which cv axle to get ? Are the ones from the auto parts stores any good?

 

I replaced mine with AutoZone Remanufacture duralast CV axle with lifetime replacement warranty .... Cost me like $90 wih core... 12k miles no problem.

 

Personally i would not recommend oreily. The one i had to order in was so tight in one joint that i could not bend it at all and the inner CV joint had so much slop that i could feel it click back and forth when rotated. NOT good. This may have just been that particular one but that was my experience. I ended up getting a reman one from napa and have had zero troubles at 12k on it.

 

NAPA remanufactured here too.

 

x2 on the Autozone. I've put 20k miles on it so far.

And thanks for sharing the pic of the needle marks on the axle. Haven't seen too many other people have those marks like I did. Still odd that they would gouge like that (has to happen in 4wd).

 

Do I need to keep anything from the old CV axle,seals ,etc before turning it in for a core?

 

How did you get the cv shaft in the differential?

 

The arb kit already has a bushing for the front diff you don't need the ecgs one when you put their locker in.

 

The bushing is cheap compared to the locker.

 

Pushed it in by hand. When the splines are lined up, it goes in easily. Getting the old one out though was a PITA. IIRC, you only have to transfer the metal shield over from one axle to the other. It'll be obvious when you have them side by side.

 

nice
i had a friend who had one i borrowed that
i need to buy him some beer

cvj axles......
oe axles rebuilt

might need the dust shield.....
if you get a cvj axle they have all new

i put nut back on lined up splines. faced the the c clip opening facing down and gave it 2 good taps with a lump hammer
and to get old out of cv i used a cold chisels and a lump hammer a few taps and out she went.....
good luck

 

^^ Ditto on the additional pic.

As previously posted here, my right side had developed the same needle scoring at very low miles on a stock truck. This would be on the stub shaft that comes out of the passenger side of the front diff, not the CV shaft. The right side uses the same needle bearing. To me, when I saw this scoring on my truck, I kept thinking that the bearing running surface is being hammered by the needles in some fashion.

 

did you check the worn mark against the adjacent surface with a Micrometer?

I bet its still ok.

 

They're gouged in and can be felt by hand. It's no longer a round, smooth surface. I think what you're seeing is the "band" where the shaft rides in the bearing. Zoom in on the pic and you'll see lines on the shaft (length-wise). You can see them better on mine below. See the vertical scratches in the pic?