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100k 100,000 MILE MAINTENENCE THREAD!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 92dlxman, Jun 22, 2013.

  1. Jun 22, 2013 at 7:14 PM
    #1
    92dlxman

    92dlxman [OP] drinking whats on sale

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    Kevin
    Visalia, CA
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    08 access 4x4 4.0 6-gear
    5100s, ome884s, wheelers aal kit, and some rustoleum
    well, she finally clocked over, as I can imagine many of you guys have done the same and most of you will in the future. this will be another one of my kind of "ongoing" threads until I feel its complete, which likely, is never.

    so lets start with a list of things that we all must address on this vehicle at one point or another, and I will address them as applicable to my service schedule. anybody can add their experiences to this as long as its a decent writeup. for instance I don't have an auto or a 4cyl so maybe you guys good add in your 100k shenanigans if you choose.

    and remember, 100k does not make your truck old, it only gives the opportunity to make it like new again.

    all things to be done at one time or another:
    brakes (to be checked)
    clutch (to be checked)
    diff fluids (due at 110k)
    t-case fluid (due at 110k)
    tranny fluid (due at 110k)
    u-joint grease (due now)
    spark plugs (due at 110k)
    cabin air (to be checked)
    engine air (due with oil)
    engine oil (when light comes on)
    engine coolant (due now)

    so today, I attacked the coolant change. this was the easiest vehicle (of the three I've ever been this intimate with:rolleyes:) to do a coolant changeout ever! starts with a trip to the dealer, for 3gals of Toyota Super Long Life coolant. my local dealer had it for a surprising 25$ per gallon for the 50/50 pre-diluted stuff. that's a par-for-the-course price from what I've seen. and if my dealer had it in stock, yours almost definitely will lol.

    now, its time to get comfy in the garage, get some radio going, sweep it up if not already clean and lay out some cardboard. drive your beast in with the heater on and shut her down. I start all motor work by removing the skid plate(s) and engine cover. the first drain is on the drivers side of the radiator. lucky for me, a 4gal paint bucket fit nicely under there. open her up and remove the radiator cap. let her drain as you stand back and feel super tough.

    the next drains are on the block. the drivers side is accessible through the wheel-well. you'll notice a brass 10mm nut with a 3/8" tube bent facing out below it. it is in line with the aft uca pivot. (pics soon) attatch a bit of hose to the tube and route it to your bucket. I used the same hose I use for my oil-filter drain. a bunch of wobble extensions are necessary to to get your ratchet into the wheel well to keep your knuckles from being burnt on the exhaust mani, right above the draincock. mine was scary tight for a 10mm nut. with a good amount of pressure, it went "tink!" and started draining. tighten it when you are done.

    the passenger side is very similar, but the draincock is slightly aft of the drivers side one
    [​IMG]

    you can see the black hose running to it just aft of the rear uca pivot. same procedure, a few wobble extensions and more than comfortable force to break it loose. tighten er up when its done draining.

    now comes a moment of choice. to flush, or not to flush. my only option for flushing was to run a water hose through the system. I went to remove my t-stat and found that it was integrated into the plastic fitting that houses it. I got scared as usually I would just remove the t-stat, re-mount the housing, disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses, and flush the motor through the lower hose. this was not possible on my truck. I figured it would be fine not to flush as my old coolant came out perfectly clean. if yours is dirty or contaminated, find a way to flush it. just make sure you have a way to purge the tap water out when your done.

    now comes the unbelievably easy part. my 92 22re pickup hated coolant swaps. . . . lots of work to fill.. . . easily held air.

    on the 1gr, make sure your heater is on, and all draincocks are closed. add in you mixture of coolant nice and slow to the radiator. if it seems full, squeeze hoses to try and gurgle some air out. I got almost 2 gallons in this way. now, start the truck. I usually leave the radiator cap OFF. the coolant will swell a bit, then the t-stat opens and should suck coolant away(I let my truck run for about an hour). top off the radiator, if necessary, and close the radiator cap. fill the reservoir, and go for a drive.

    when you come back, shut the truck off, and carefully start to remove your radiator cap, if air comes out, let all positive pressure bleed before completely removing cap. add coolant, if necessary. if only coolant wants to come out, your good. make sure your heater works, and check fluid level one more time. check reservoir level and call it a day

    my truck filled very easy, it hardly burped with the t-stat opening. they must have put a lot of thought into eliminating air traps in this cooling system
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2013
  2. Jun 24, 2013 at 10:45 PM
    #2
    2wheelnut

    2wheelnut Well-Known Member

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    Angelo
    Vallejo, CA
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    '11 S/C K.I.S.S. "Factory Enhanced" DC TRD OR
    TRD Supercharger, TRD First Gen CAI, TRD FJ Alloy, Toyo OC A/T II 265/75/16, 5100's Front and Rear, OME 885x with 1/4 taco lean spacer, Toytec AAL 1.5" non TSB. TSB not done. WheatherTech Side Window Deflector, Satoshi Grill, T Rex Eyelids, Matt123 Skid Black stamped, Modded Maglite with Maglite mod for driver seat, Bed extender. Full debadging
  3. Jun 25, 2013 at 7:40 PM
    #3
    Azntrutek

    Azntrutek Well-Known Member

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    08 TRDsport -Towpackage
    2".5 lift, HID head lamp and HID lights, color match tonneau cover and running board.


    Nice job ... You take care your truck it will take care of you ... My truck has 109k miles on her clock when I did mine last month. I replaced the water pump (nothing wrong with the water pump. just wanted to replace it) and serpentine belt at the same time i flushed the coolant. I used preston concentrate (nitrite, silicate, phosphate FREE) antifree mixed with distill water instead of toyota long life coolant. Beside flushed the coolant. i also changed spark plug; flushed brake, power steering fluid. Changed new upper/ lower radiator hose; thermostat; both front wheel bearing; engine/cabin air filter; T-case front and rear differential fluids. My goal are from now to the end of this summer. i would like to replacing all (5) U-joint, center carrier support bearing, ignition coils and both of motor mount.

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  4. Jun 25, 2013 at 7:46 PM
    #4
    WTFaulkner

    WTFaulkner Well-Known Member

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    Stuff
    This is what is required for 100,000 miles

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jun 25, 2013 at 7:50 PM
    #5
    WTFaulkner

    WTFaulkner Well-Known Member

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    Stuff
    And this for 120,000
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jun 26, 2013 at 8:56 PM
    #6
    92dlxman

    92dlxman [OP] drinking whats on sale

    Joined:
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    Kevin
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    08 access 4x4 4.0 6-gear
    5100s, ome884s, wheelers aal kit, and some rustoleum

    your thumbnails did not work
     
  7. Jun 26, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #7
    92dlxman

    92dlxman [OP] drinking whats on sale

    Joined:
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    Kevin
    Visalia, CA
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    08 access 4x4 4.0 6-gear
    5100s, ome884s, wheelers aal kit, and some rustoleum
    awesome, my dealer didn't have a t-stat in stock so I risked it. and if they don't have a t-stat, they don't have a pump lol. any tips on your belt/ pump replacements, did you remove your radiator?
     
  8. Jun 27, 2013 at 9:47 PM
    #8
    Azntrutek

    Azntrutek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    08 TRDsport -Towpackage
    2".5 lift, HID head lamp and HID lights, color match tonneau cover and running board.


    It was very simple and straightforward to replace the water pump on a V6 engine . I didn't remove the radiator or alternator when i did mine. All i did was remove the fan's shout and the fan, gave me plenty of room to work. There is one bolt (top left on driver side) hidden behind the pulley of the belt tensioner. The hayne repair manual said you have to remove the alternator in other to remove the belt tensioner. What i did was used 15" long 3/8 ratchet and cranked (encounter clockwise) the belt tension til it pass the water pump's bolt. Then held it with my left hand (you can use a small screw driver to help you hold the tensioner when you reinstall serpentine belt) and used my right hand with 10mm socket to removed the bolt. If i did only the water pump it would took me no more than 4 hrs. Since i flushed brake, coolant, power steering fluids .. Etc. It took me total 7.5 hrs and $265 in parts. The dealer wanted $500 just to replace the water pump... Lol.. Oh by the way i used Auto Zone dulralast water pump cost like $96 vs toyota pump which made by Asin $237. Can't beat the lifetime replacement warrant ( and price) of the duralast pump offer by autozone. So far 1600 miles on the new pump.... "Knock on wood" !!!!.

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2013
  9. Jun 30, 2013 at 3:21 PM
    #9
    92dlxman

    92dlxman [OP] drinking whats on sale

    Joined:
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    Kevin
    Visalia, CA
    Vehicle:
    08 access 4x4 4.0 6-gear
    5100s, ome884s, wheelers aal kit, and some rustoleum
    sweet. I cant diss the duralast, I ran one on my old 22re :anonymous:
     

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