Tires rubbing cab mount - need advice

First off, I was recently cruising TN and saw Toku58 update his sig to say "I'll be over at TacomaWorld" so I thought I'd stop by. I've been on TN, TTORA and TundraSolutions for 3+ years but never knew about this forum until I saw his sig.

Any way, onto the question... I just had my Mickey Thompson Classic Lock 17x9 wheels and 285/70/R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers installed today along with my 5mm hub-centric billet aluminum wheel spacers and the set up looks AWESOME.

The problem comes in when I try to turn my wheels. I have always known I would have 'some rubbing' and that I'd need to trim some plastic, which I've done, but unfortunately I've noticed that the wheels are hitting the cab mounts.

I have the DR front coilovers and the LR UCA's. The coilovers are set at the factory height (2.25") and I could crank them up another 3/4" but I don't think that by itself will solve the problem... plus I didn't want to buy the OME rear 3" kit just yet as the truck sets level now.

What I want to know is if it's possible to have the LR UCA's adjusted to move the wheel further forward in the wheel well so that I can clear the cab mount at full wheel lock? I would have to trim more plastic on the front of the bumper, but I plan on replacing the bumper soon so that's not a big deal. I don't have the tools to cut/box and weld the cab mount so I'm hoping that isn't required. If it is, I'll need to go to a body shop to have the work done.

I'm due for another alignment as I'm currently running ~2.1degrees of caster and according to posts I've read (again Toku58's advice) was to have them set at 2.4 degrees with the larger tires.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

First off, welcome!

How bout a pic of where it's rubbing exactly...

 

I'm sure it's the same place as everyone else.

You need to have it cut and a new plate welded.







I have to get mine done asap!!

 

I was going to say. I have a 3" lift up front with 18x9" wheels with 285's and they rub a little at full tilt but not that much.

 

Yeah if they're constantly rubbing you might be able to do something. 285/70/17's on 17x8 wheels and I rarely rub, it usually happens on a big bump if I'm half lock on the steering wheel.

 

im running 18x9 285/60/18 ntg w/toytec coilovers set at 2.5 no rub

 

I'll guess it's his spacers that are making his problems worse by pushing the tire out further.

Dr. - I've been following your progress and sorry to hear about all the issues you're having. Hope you get them worked out. I just ordered a set of M/T Classic II's. We'll know soon enough if they fit....


Edit.....and damnit! I still say M/T's specs are wrong on the Classic Lock!!!

 

yeah thats what i think too. whats the reason for the spacers?

 

I should probably shut up and let the Dr. answer but he bought M/T Classic Locks, the correctly specced wheels according to M/T, and they rub the calipers. Tires were already mounted so I'll guess this is why he still has them.

 

I had about 0.001" of clearance between the back of the wheel and the caliper WITHOUT tightening down the lug nuts so from the start, that was a "no go". I tried to 'shave' (actually trim) the caliper and just like Jed Clampit, I stuck black gold (brake fluid). So, new caliper and a brake flush later and I have 5mm spacers. The wheels now clear the caliper just fine but the front tires are hitting what I think is the cab mount which is closest to the drivers and passengers front door. I can take my steering wheel, point it dead straight, and rotate it EXACTLY 360 degrees either way and I hit metal. 270 degrees either way and I'm fine. I will go take a few pix and try to post them here in a few minutes.

Thank you everyone for being so helpful.

 

I did the same thing and left the stock UCAs with the DR coilovers and stock tires. My tires wore out at 25K which is why I'm now having all of this fun. Pics on the way...

 

Ok, here are the pictures. Photo #1 is the passenger side front tire pointing straight.


Photo #2 is the passenger side front tire turned just over 360 degrees.


Same shot just zoomed in.


A new shot, trying to show the rubbing in the back side of the wheel well nearest the passenger door. There is what i think is the cab mount that is in the way. The drivers side is WORSE but I didn't have the room to take the pictures.



From the front just for fun...


So, am I going to have to trim metal or do the UCA's have the ability to move the wheel further forward?

 

backspace

I run 17x8.5 on 4.5BS and I run on cab mounts (and on fender flare a lot)

 

I don't think the UCA will help, the wheel center is not likely to move forward..

 

Thanks for the advice. I've been laying in bed, rehashing every post that I've read over the last couple of years (mostly on TTORA) about fitting larger wheels and I realized that on the drivers side it's probably the pinch weld that's hitting first. The pinch weld must be the metal seam that is tucked behind the thin black plastic liner which is just before the cab mount. With suspension articulation I'm sure that I'm going to have to have the pinch weld hammered against the wheel well and the cab mount cut, boxed and welded on both sides to make this set up work.

This is not what I wanted to do, but if I can find a reputable body shop I should be OK. The good news is that the tires do NOT hit the bumper section of the wheel well... This allows me a little time to save up for the front bumper and will keep the wife happy too.

Thanks for the feed back everyone. I'm amazed that after 3+ years I've finally found a forum where there are reputable people that actually give good advice and didn't just reply "idiot", "search" or "dousch" to my problem. TW ROCKS!!!

 

Okay, if thats true, I run 17x8 on 4.5BS with KM2's which are a full 33" OD and I only hit the cab mount on biiig bumps.


Anyone ever think that every truck is different and maybe the pinch welds stick out farther on some than others. I mean- its so close in the first place, even if you don't rub.

 

OK, I got off of the phone with SPC (Light Racing manufacturer) and you CAN move the wheel fore and aft within the wheel well depending upon the direction your caster needs to be adjusted.

If you need positive caster dialed in they effectively move the UCA toward the bed of the truck. If you need negative caster dialed in they move toward the front bumper of the truck. Unfortunately for me, I'm sitting at 2.1 degrees drivers side and 1.7 degrees passenger side and would probably need to get to 2.4 degrees on both sides (again, what I've read on the forums). This would only make my problem WORSE!

I just left the body shop and they quoted me $250 for 6 hours of work. The price may go up or down depending upon the level of effort involved. They did say that they'd put the truck on a frame puller, get a (some machine whose name I can't remember) and fully bottom out my suspension and turn the wheels to full lock and full compression and GUARANTEE that I'd have 100% clearance all of the time while on the trails.

That works in my book...