Alignment, caster camber problems?

When measuring from the centerline of the front hub to the centerline of the rear one side was 1" shorter then the other.

 

Shorter side to side ?

ie driver's side measurement versus passenger side measurement

 

Correct.

 

Thanks

 

Your welcome.

 

USUALLY but not always, that can be corrected by loosening the leaf pack u-bolts and verifying the center pins are in the correct position. Sometimes however a more aggressive method needs to be taken. Measure the length of each leaf from center to tip of leaf on left and right. If these numbers are significantly different then the leaf packs may need to be disassembled and repositioned.

 

Thanks, but the dealer messed it up and they also fixed it. I am not sure what they did to fix it but it is running straight now.

 

Thanks for the info and to every one else that left feedback! I will add that since taking it out for the weekend and having it up to hwy speeds with a canoe on my home made rack it wasn't all over the road as suggested. Is that wierd? I will head down to the shop and see what they will do.

 

Probably should have thrown this up along with my question but here it is. the printout I was given. Sorry its sideways..

 

This topic has kinda been beat to death but here are my .02. I installed a 3" lift on my 2013 DC and had the alignment done to factory specs.



This alignment ended up causing my truck to have a "loose" feeling in the steering wheel and created a ton of bumpsteer problems. After checking on TW to diagnose the problem i realigned my truck with some specs recommended by TW members.



This setup is MUCH better! The looseness is gone and the bumpsteer is really unnoticeable. The driveability is better and the braking is solid and not squirly. I do have Light Racing UCAs so the 3* caster was possible for me but you probably wont get that without aftermarket UCAs.

 

Where did you go for your alignment? I see your location is Denver.
Here are my latest numbers after going back to the shop today. Camber is still off and the tech said that he can't get it closer to 0 without the caster going into the Neg. Any truth to that?

 

You're probably going to need UCAs to get a good alignment. Might be able to try another shop but I doubt you're going to get the numbers you really want without them. That's why I didn't risk it and just bought them with my lift.

 

This^

I have LR UCAs also and they are normally required to get there numbers exactly, however I have heard of people getting 0 toe and 0 camber with a low 2* caster with stock UCAs but never seen any proof. Many shops just don't know how to align properly or lack the motivation which may be the case for you. My 2nd alignment was done at Coloradoland in Littleton and as you can see they got it right on so I would guess they might be able to get you taken care of or at least improved from where you're at now.

If you look at the specified numbers for your truck on the alignment sheet you can see where they should be able to get with stock UCAs which are way better than the numbers you have on your alignment sheet so I would have someone else try again. It is certainly possible to get 0 toe, 0 camber, and at least 1 or 2* caster.

 

Thanks for the Info. I appreciate all the feedback given!

 

I'm getting a lot of "bump steer" after 2 1/4" leveling. Stock rear. Bilstien 5100's 1.75, 1/4" top spacer. On the highway steering wheel kind of moves up and down on its own. Drives straight, but the wobble is driving me nuts. Had it aligned 3 times to get to these specs, but doesn't feel any better. Kind of a dead feel on initial turning. Brand new 265/75r16 bfg at 32 psi. 45k miles. Any ideas?