Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I'd just link the front if I was you.


Anyone know if it's worth it to fully upgrade to both chromoly inner and outer 35 spline shafts or is it more than adequate to keep the OEM inners and just upgrade to 35 spline outers?

 

Full chromo

But I guess you could keep the inners as long as they are not "neck-down" inners, ie. stock inners originally necked down to a smaller diameter at a point which made them weaker. Factory (spicer) replacement shafts were full diameter the whole length of the axle.

And check out durasolid for axleshafts, they used to make yukon's shafts...

 

Well of course it's worth it to someone with deep pockets I'd run the stock stuff and see what you break.

 

Yup, stock D60 is still stronger than the best D44 stuff... and the D44 holds up pretty well to 37s (for now)

 

Subbed. Hoping to learn a thing or two so that one day I can do my own SAS.

 

I'm surprised your axle is holding up as well as it has. Stock shafts?

 

Superior axle and gear chromo shafts (American version), and longfields 300m u-joints. It's not stock . I feel like I wheel it really hard compared to most others around here... Guess Nwitaco can vouch for that, and 45acp.. Over the few years of wheeling I've learned alot and know how to control the skinny pedal alot better. Way different wheeling here compared to where you're at though!

 

This^^^^^

 

What do chromolly axles go for approx ??

 

Depends on the brand, quality, and the axle it's for. Usually 600-1300 if memory serves me correct.

 

I got a full set for the front from Yukon for $550 shipped on sale.

 

Fuuuuck... was saving my pennies for a DD, but RuffStuff has a 18% off sale going on. Was thinking of picking up stuff for the links. What size rod ends would you guys suggest?

 

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/78X34SET15.html

 

I bought shit because they were having a sale too LOL Between Ruff Stuff and Ballistic, I've made 3 or 4 different orders from each because of their sales For links I would NOT go any smaller than 1.25" heims for lowers, left and right thread obviously. 7/8x3/4 heims would be good for a panhard rod, upper link and steering components but definitely not for lower links. Consider using 2.25x.375 wall DOM tube for lower links (1.5" ID), unless you want to go with Heretic Fab heat treated chromo links then you can get away with some smaller material.

 

I'm definitely used to D44 stuff because D60 parts seem enormous! Assembled my axle shafts yesterday, stock 35 spline inners, Spicer joints and Yukon 35 spline outers. Should hold me over just fine for now. Now if I could just sell these 35 spline Warn Premiums, we'd be in business!

 

Any reason I should go with johnny joints over heims on certain parts?

Stupid question, but what is the difference between the two anyway? Assembly?
(-edit- nevermind, watched the vid on Currie's site.)

Also, looks like the local metal supplier is having a 15% off sale (for orders over $300), so I'll probably pick up the lower link material from them.

http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-3504-204-2-14-od-x-375-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx

 

Johnny Joints have rubber in them so they will dampen road vibes, hits, etc. If you use all heims it will be a rougher ride.

1 1/4" joints for lowers, 7/8" heims for all other links

My lowers are 2" dia. 1/4" wall DOM sleeved with 1 1/2"dia. 1/4" wall DOM

 

Johnny Joints are rebuildable and like NWI said, they'll dampen more than heims. The argument is a rebuildable joint will "unbuild" itself in time whereas a heim will not since they weren't meant to be disassembled for any reason. You will be lubing a heim joint more since they have less slippery plastic inside but the main benefit of heims is they are A LOT stronger than Johnny Joints. Another thing to think about is Johnny Joints only come with a 9/16" through hole for mounting where heims you can run whatever you want pretty much. More people have bent 9/16" bolts than blew up Johnny Joints, FWIW.

From Poly Performance, the full Johnny Joint kit (with jam nut and tube adapter) I got was less than Ruff Stuff heims but I don't think Ruff Stuff was having a sale at the time. They might be roughly the same cost now that Ruff Stuff is having their sale.

 

I also forgot to add that some prefer to use heims on one end and a poly bushing on the other for the same dampening reasons.

The idea is to get some rubber somewhere in the mounts for the lower links so you dont rattle your teeth out of your jaw.

Using bushings on one end reduces your adjustability, but will save a bit of coin as well. And if your suspension is dialed in the added adjustability in link length isnt really necessary anyway.

 

I would use the barnes enduro joint over a johnny joint. In everything I've rode in that had hiems I didnt really notice a rough ride just that they made noise. Granted most of the riding was offroad.