Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

I just saw in another thread that you got your 285s mounted. Any rubbing issues? I am curious if the +1* (over stock) setting helped you gain clearance, also wondering about the 1" spacers and how close you are to the UCAs because most people run 1.25" spacers on stock wheels. Pictures would be awesome

 

i just installed the spec ride bushings a few weeks ago and all washer were the same size and i used 4 total per side

 

So my ball joint on my LR UCAs is in a slightly different position on each of my UCAs. My caster is only off .1* (2.6* vs 2.7*) but it's kind of bugging me that they're not symmetrical. Think I should loosen them up and make sure they're in the same spot and take it back for another alignment?

 

Are your other numbers good? I would just leave it alone if all the numbers are good

 

Camber is .4* and toe is .07* on both side of the front. Not sure if that is close enough to zero or not.

 

caster is ok
some like it a bit higher....
and thats fine .01 off from side to side...

toe needs to be close to zero
camber and toe is what wears you tires
camber doesnt seem horrible tho

 

I have an ome lift same as bjmoose and lr uca's and the lift has been installed by yours truly for about 2 weeks. Alignment completed and lr's set at neutral. It drives great though I do need shims I have a shutter vibe around 55-60 very minor. No take off shutter though which is good. My cousin's a service manager at town fair tire in ct. They adjusted camber and caster then toe and everything was within spec.

Now all the sudden I'm getting the infamous clunk people have talked about for example driving over a speed bump when turning. I wasn't driving over a speed bump but I was offroad and there was a change in grade and I was turning to the right almost at full lock.

Im wandering if its the boot on the balljoint of the lr's contacting the 885's not sure though I need to test this theory by flexing the truck somewhat and getting droop and taking pics.

Anyone have this similar issue ? I have only hear it once so far.

Also side note my exhaust hanger rubs my leaf spring pack holder on the side anyone else have this same issue ?

 

Did you loosen your LCA bolts when you installed your lift? Double check that they are torqued to spec (not sure what it is) double check everything and make sure its torqued and make sure there is no play side to side in the UCAs. another thing it could be is the sway bar contacting the spring, OME shocks/springs are not supposed to have that issue but some people have had that problem before. I doubt the balljoint is touching the springs, but i have also seen one or two people have that happen. Just jack the front of your truck up to get the wheels at full droop and see how much clearance you have. If everything checks out there is a chance the noise could be the shock itself topping out, its been mentioned a few times because alot of people seem to have the "when goes over speed bump clank" issue with OME, but no one has really been able to prove that the noise is coming from the shock itself.

 

Sway bar is my guess. Install the relocate kit. Cheap and easy.

 

Or just ditch it all together.

 

Torque those lower control arm nuts n bolts to 100ftlbs

 

I have swaybar relocate kit installed. i will check torque on lca eccentric bolts never touched them before or after install. all other bolts are torqued down and everything seems to have clearance. anyone know the torque values for the lca bolts offhand?

my drive shaft angles are almost identical (1st shaft 5.5 2nd shaft 5.8) and I have a 3.1 degree angle on the rear diff to housing. I think I'm going to mess with some washers on the carrier bearing bolts to rid those shudder vibes at 55-65 mph range. Keep y'all posted on my findings.

thanks for the help!

 

Thanks will do right now!

 

I had popping sounds when turning full lock to full lock just after installing ToyTec's ultimate lift. I found all four lower control arm bolts lose (two on each side; they connect the LCA to the knuckle/lower ball joint assembly). I torqued them to the specified 120 ft-lbs and all is well.

 

well I brought my torque wrench to work and I could only get to the two rear 19mm bolts (1 on each lca) bc the skid plate was blocking the front 2 bolts. The rear two were torqued around 100 ft lbs I put them at 120 f lbs. Ill get the front two torqued down at 120 ft lbs when I'm home in the morning and see if the infamous clunk nose from the front passenger side arises again.

 

Will be waiting to hear your results.

 

I was speaking about the bolts on the lower outboard side of the LCAs underneath the wheel bearings - they're nowhere near the skidplates. I think the bolts you're talking about are the caster adjustment cam bolts . . .?

 

I thought you were talking about the adjustment cam bolts. I will check the torque on the outboard side bolts on the lcas and torque to 120 ft lbs thanks for double checking my ignorance. Also for those of you who have had the infamous clunk from turning on a grade and going to full/almlost full lock.

READ THIS POST

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/11926-steering-stop-cap-write-up-2.html

It seems that steering stop cap on the lca hits. Other ppl have had this issue and use grease,lube, some mentioned candle wax to prevent the metal on metal contact. scroll to the end of the post for pics.

The part that is shiny is your steering stop on the LCA. There is one on each side of the LCA, on both LCAs and one on each side of the knuckle on both knuckles.

 

I looked this morning at my outboard lca bolts on each. Its a castle nut with a cotter pin. When I installed the ome lift I never touched them. I don't have replacement cotter pins so if I never touched them I would imagine they are still torqued from the factory. I tried the write up in the post above where u grease your steering stop caps. I'm going to see if I get any more popping sounds at front lock to the right with a grade change. If I still hear it I might as well pick up some new cotter pins and check the torques on the castle nuts on the lca's and re cotter pin. thanks for the help.

 

You're close! It's not the castle nut on each LCA that you should try tightening (that's for the ball joint), but rather the two bolts that straddle each of those castle nuts. Using the front of the truck as reference, one bolt is in front of the castle nut and one is behind it. The bolt in front of the castle nut is situated directly under the steering stop.

I hope this clears it up, and I hope that torquing these four bolts to 120 ft-lbs solves your problem!