Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Dampening hits or road vibes isn't much of a concern to me, helps me to know what the truck is doing.

What tube dimensions should I be using for the drag link, panhard and tie rod?

 

I am using 1 1/2" dia 1/4" wall for everything except the lowers.

 

Those are fancy! I didn't even know they existed. Not sure why they talk up shank length, if you have a 1.25" diameter shank, you need at least 1.875" of thread engagement. The rule in the machinist world is 1.5 times the diameter. Say you have 1/2" of stickout for adjustment purposes, the shanks on Enduro joints are roughly an inch longer than they need to be and that's not even taking into account the jam nut.

 

That's a good size. It's likely your drag link and tie rod will be of the same material too, mine are.

 

Yes they are, a couple of my buddies are running them and like them. They have been around for awhile just in the testing phase. In all the testing and all that have been sold there have been no joint failures. You will break the bolt before the joint fails.

 

X2 my uppers and lowers are 2"X .250 wall but my panhard,drag link & tie rod are 1.5"x .250"

 

I know Matt uses (or used) a bushing at the frame end for the panhard. Jerry, what are you doing to keep the panhard from rotating?

And how's this? Anything else I should be picking up from RuffStuff right now? Lower link parts will be sourced elsewhere.

 

Natt tore up the bushing first trip out. He is running a heim with a wobble stopper on either side of it. Basically a machined piece of bushing that slips over the misalign.

If you are not going doubleshear get the safety misalignments for the underside of each heim. Dan incorporate the safetywasher and the high misalignment into one, pretty slick.

You can get axle end or frame end brackets as well if oyu know what your configuration will look like. Anything else just call me lol

 

Is that all hardware for the upper link and panhard? Or are you getting steering too? They have a pretty nice steering link kit with all the proper safety/misalignment spacers and a couple sections of 1.5"x.25 DOM for tie rod and drag link. Unless you want to run tie rod ends instead of heims. I believe they have a tie rod end kit too actually.

 

Yeah Matt swapped that out real quick. I don't have anything right now just the heims rotated at different angles and it didn't flop too much on this last trip. I'm going to make some wobble stops for the frame side i just haven't got around to it.

 

Man I wish I had a better job..

http://roanoke.craigslist.org/pts/3865053776.html

 

Too bad one axle is 60.5 WMS-WMS and the other is 68 WMS-WMS (+-1)... But the pictures make it seem they are similar WMS... I thought early F250 D60's were full width but

Oh, and...

 

Oh damn I just assumed they were a pair.. Full widths are just a pipe dream for now. That would look pretty goofy haha. And I literally lol'ed at that picture.

 

I am not for certain on too many rear axles honestly. But they could be a pair... But there is no D60 rear/ D44 wagoneer combo on the jeeps.. That I am aware of... Maybe Brian will tune in and let us in on some good info

 

I used to see a D60 62" WMS on Craigslist awhile back, forgot what it came out of. Wasn't sure if I wanted to put a narrow 60 in the back of my truck.

Found the listing:
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/3918373073.html

 

Correct, there was however for some of the j series trucks but I think they were full widths.

 

Looks like an optical illusion to me. I would call the person and ask them to measure the WMS to WMS on both axles. It's hard to say if it's a stock Wagoneer front axle (60.5" WMS) or a stock wide track J20 axle ('bout 65" WMS). J20's came stock with 8 lug outers but pretty much all the D44 stuff from the knuckle out is interchangeable anyhow so we may be looking at a completely custom setup with a stock Waggy axle and Chevy 8 lug outers

 

Now that I think about it, they do make Wide Track Wagoneer axles that are driver drop. Hmmmm...WMS-WMS would tell everything.

 

So in researching cases for my swap, I just don't know what to do.
NV4500 HD diesel 29 spline behind a 12 valve cummins. Plan is to run chromoly shafts -- 35 spline, and a 14bolt in the rear with 1410 ujoints all around, which leaves me worried about the case.*

NV4500HD 29 spline to...

NP205 23 or 29 spline will bolt up with or w/o a cheap adapter. Can't seem to find any doublers for either dodge NP205 case. And these cases are hard to find, even the 23 spline.

I found advanced adapters makes a kit to bolt a ford NP205 to the trans and I can easily get a jedmachining 205/203 doubler. That route appears to be in the realm of 1500 or so. Easy to find! -- but probably have to make two long trips to pick up cases. edit: not passenger drop

Dana 300 with a relatively cheap 29 spline input shaft swap will bolt right up. 4:1 gears available for about 500$ -- possibly upgrade output shaft-- all in should be about $1k Downside here is the dana 300 seems to be a weaker unit than the 205/203 or I'd go this route and save trouble and $$. This is pretty much off the table.

Atlas Stak or Klune V are just too much $$$

So anyone have any suggestions?