Best motor oil???!!!

Why? Is an outstanding oil just like pretty much anything over the counter. Even if the so called best oil isn't changed it still has its limits.

 

Been using mobil 1.From day 1

 

STi with its turbo is a lot harder on oil than the Taco. You likely won't notice any improvement with Motul 300V vs other oils.

Compare the EPA mpg figures for a 2013 Taco 2.7 vs 2010. Engine is the same, but Toyota "magically" ecked out an extra 1-2 mpg by using synth oil, so they look better from a marketing/CAFE standpoint. The 4.0 likely didn't show a tangible mpg increase with synth oil.

 

All oil is good even the cheap stuff. It has to meet API standards. Read the back of any oil brand. It will say meets API SM SL and so on. I have been a diesel mechanic for 20plus years. I have had customers request all the high price synthetic oils. I do oil samples on most of my customers engines annually. I have seen no differences from the different brands. It is more important to change at regular intervals and use a quality filter. But what do I know I only turn wrenches for a living.

 

Hear hear.

 

Any dino oil will work. Just change it when you're supposed to. It's all the same liquified dinosaur poop.

 

been using Pennzoil 5w3o- 15 bucks at Walsmart since '06. no probs here lol

 

To put things in perspective, you can stop changing oil altogether and still get 98,000 miles out of a 1GR-FE before engine failure due to oil sludge blocking the passageways:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/232540-2008-tundra-1grfe-v6-engine-dead-98k-9.html#post5541472

 

Well, to be honest, that was 50k of dealer maintenance and 50k of nobody knows.

So that damage could have been "cooking" for 50k... or the dealer may be responsible.

 

Here's a BMW engine failing after 60,000 miles without oil change:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...OS-job-in-progress-after-40k-on-an-oil-change

 

Only a complete tool would drive a vehicle that long without a oil and filter change.

 

I use that mobile wun stuff

 

Mobil-1 in the crankcase, Chevron in the gas tank, Toyota LLC in the radiator, and Bulleit Rye in the Glencairn.

No more, no less.

 

The book says to use SLLC instead of LLC in the radiator, though as a top-up it doesn't matter.

 

Agreed. I've read most of the articles at blackstone-labs.com, and this is spot on. And even the intervals can be spaced out closer to the 10K mile mark, nowhere near 3K. I've been using supertech (wal-mart brand) with confidence, saving cash every 9K mile oil change (7K when towing). I don't mind spending money on my truck, but I despise the thought of being one of the "sheep", following the crowd mindlessly.

 

If you'll go back and look at older Toyota owner's manuals, you'll see that the 5,000 mile service interval began at the same time each respective model got the "Maintenance Required" light added to the dash.
My 2003 Tundra had 5,000 mile "severe service" and 7,500 mile "normal service" intervals.
Wife's 2004 Rav4 has only a 5,000 mile interval... it has the reminder light.

Once you are out of warranty, any quality synthetic coupled with the OEM filter can be run to 10k without issue so long as you keep an eye on the oil level. Some Toyotas tend to use a little oil, some don't.
My Tundra and the Taco never showed any noticeable drop on the dipstick. Wife's Rav4 will drop between 1/2 and 1 quart over 5,000 miles.

 

I just did mine today with Castrol Fully Synthetic-Titanium (premium of the two synthetics they offer) I hope it's good, anyone have any experiences using it?

 

Curious why they have Titanium in the name. Certainly don't want titanium in my oil.

 

BG 5W30 with their MOA additive, great stuff plus additional warranties on your engine!

 

Yeah totally, it was only $4 more so I figured it must be better. If is cost more its gotta be better