Grinding into 3rd gear

So I dont need any special pump as research has shown?

 

A bit confusing there. You recommend removing the fill plug first, then say don't remove the fill plug until the drain plug is removed. Also, there is no pressure in a gearbox. They are vented to atmospheric pressure. The only possible "spray" would be gravity drain if the fill plug is removed already. No risk of pressure.

No, you do not need any special pump. Most quart bottles of gear lube have a special tapered cap that you cut the end off, then insert a small plastic tube over it to put into the gearbox/differential. Most parts stores have enough tubes that they can give some to you.

 

Forget spray or pressure; here's my advice:

1) Loosen the fill plug

2) Remove the drain plug

If you skip step 1, you might find yourself unable to remove the fill plug, and with no fluid in your gearbox. So much for driving to the nearest Autozone to try a different socket.

 

VERY true information right there! I usually always remove fill plugs first, but never really thought about that before since I work in a shop and if a fill plug won't come out, we have to figure a WAY to make it come out. lol. Usually involves welding something to the fill plug, then replacing it later.

 

For whoever got Butt Hurt by my "redneck" information, get a life. Just trying to help out. If you don't like what I have to say, put me on ignore so you don't have to read it.

 

I wrote loosen fill plug first, remove drain plug, then remove fill plug. How is that confusing?

And yes for some reason mine sprayed gear oil out as I had removed the fill plug 1st, not just loosen it. Truck was on level ground, transmission was still hot so maybe my breather is clogged up, I wasn't about to disassemble it to find out.
I have read in these threads where that has happened to others as well so who knows why. Regardless, when changing out any oil of the drivetrain components, you always want to loosen/remove the fill plug 1st, then remove drain plug since most of us don't have the luxury of a fully equipped shop.

Jay238 when was the last time you changed the gear oil? It's recommended every 30k. When I did mine I had just bought the truck at 47k and it was still on factory fill and had the occasional 3rd gear grind, I changed it to RP and no longer have that grind, now at 53k.

 

I have done that trick before! I hadn't thought about it until you mentioned it tho!

I agree with byrd. Older fluid tends to get thicker with age, and this causes the blocker ring in the synchro to get sticky and not do it's job as well.

You DID say loosen the fill plug. My silly brain processed it as "remove". I should slow down my reading a bit more. Yeah, those breather vents can get clogged with dirt and cause issues. I should have thought more deeply and read better. My bad.

 

I'm at 199,000 miles on my 05 6sd MT. I am starting to get the 3rd gear grind. I changed to MT-90 over the weekend and it feels much smoother now.

What is the 2nd step refered to in the quoted post? I don't understand the abbreviation used..."do rec'd shifter"?

 

You will need a pump for the transmission change. It will make it a lot easier. You cant fit a bottle anywhere near the fill. Just about any cheap pump will do.
Its a really easy change, also i would spray some pb blaster on the bolts first to make it easier.

Torque bolts to 27ftlb
You could follow the Transfer case walk through on here.

 

BamaToy1997, it's all good, our goal is to help others who have questions about the procedure. I was just surprised it sprayed, never had that happen before.

Jay238, it was my 1st on my truck. However, not the 1st manual trans oil I had changed, I did my Chevelle countless times in the past. A hand pump is a must for doing it, makes it so much easier since on a 4x4 you have the driveshaft running right in front of the transmission fill plug. Also the advice on using PB blaster is good. I used Liquid Wrench on mine but the end result is the same. Mine had the factory grease pen mark in blue on it. I think I can locate a photo. If yours is factory fill, the bolts were put on by Hercules and might be a bit tough to break loose, mine were. Use a long racket or breakover bar will help.

Found the pic not the best in focus but you can see the grease mark from when it was torqued down, factory marks it after it's been done. You can also see the boot from my front driveshaft, not much room to work there.

 

It was my first change, I'm still riding the original clutch too. The grinding is gone. I'm trying to baby this truck till the Gen 3 appears and then I'll make a choice on getting a Gen 3 or the last of the Gen 2. However, if the new Chevy Colorado has a diesel i may be tempted to go that route.

 

No problem Jay238 I think changing it from regular dino gear oil to synthetic gear oil is the key in getting rid of that 3rd gear grind. I noticed immediately that it shifted much smoother, I'm on my 2nd clutch as it was replaced at 44k according to Toyota owners web site. Why it was changed I don't know, it doesn't specify. I bought the truck with 47k on it.

This is what it says on the service record:

PRIME ITEM 05/09/2012 CUSTOMER STATES TOW IN CHECK CLUTCH AND SHIFTING ISSUE ~|~ ~|~REPLACED CLUTCH AND RESURFACED FLYWHEEL Parts
Name Part # QTY
DISC ASSY, CLUTCH 3125035451 1
BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH 3123060241 1
COVER ASSY, CLUTCH 3121060280 1


CUSTOMER PAY

The parts list as 2012 parts, regardless I didn't pay for it and now enjoy knowing I have a new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing installed 3k miles before I bought it.
Now that I know this I wonder if my tranny oil was changed at that time, it doesn't state that it was, but for peace of mind I know when I did it at 50k.
Currently at 53k in miles and enjoy smooth shifting and clutching.

 

Talking about clutches as well, I am pissed at mine. I bought what I BELIEVED to be a good one last year, and the pressure plate has already lost it's strength, and the clutch started to slip. Now I am looking for a good replacement....again.

 

Do recomended "shifter" replacement

 

Curious Bama,
Just what brand of clutch did you happen to buy? If I recall correctly LUX clutches (made in Mexico) were garbage. The Aisin clutch (Made in Japan) were far superior. I believe there are some TSB's out for this issue on original install.

http://www.tacomahq.com/758/tacoma-tsb-5-speed-manual-clutch-disk-defect/
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005/402099-manual-clutch-quality-tsb-info.html

Do a little research on it to confirm, may save you a headache down the road. The part number listed in my previous post is the Aisin clutch for a 6 cylinder. Which is what they replaced mine with. This may have been the issue with mine, I didn't own the truck at the time so not sure.

Part number for 4 cylinder:
31210-26172 -- AISIN pressure plate, Type B.
31250-60500 -- AISIN clutch disk, Type B

Hope this helps you out with your clutch issues.

 

Actually I was totally aftermarket. I was well aware of the issues with the factory style LUK clutches, but thanks.
I installed a Bahnhof Stage 3 kit in mine. Just luck of the draw I guess. Mass production sucks. lol.

 

Understood, I actually had the same experience with aftermarket clutches with my Chevelle until I opted for Hays. After I pulled the trigger for it, never had any clutch issue with it since. To bad they don't make them for Taco's.

 

Yeah, I think I have installed about 500 clutches in my career, so I have seen several different kinds. Even the BEST quality clutches can still have a bad one in there. I think that is what happened to me. Bahnhof has made some really good clutches that are used in racers and I have talked to several who installed them in their LS1 high performance engines. I think I just was the unlucky one who got a bad pressure plate. The clutch disc itself is still in perfect condition. It is a ceramic 6-puc. I am thinking I may install a backup pressure plate that I have, just for the hell of it.

 

Check out http://car-part.com/ and find a used trans out of a newer truck. For your situation that would be the cheapest option, and you could do it yourself or find some inmates from here in your area willing to lend a hand. The MT-90 will help prevent damage. Sorry, but it won't repair gnarfed syncros.[/QUOTE]
Will a newer transmission really fit perfect in a 2005? trying to figure out this exact same problem and if i can replace it myself

 

I also have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma with a 6 speed manual transmission that grinds going into 3rd gear. I have taken this into 2 different transmission shops and they've both completely rebuilt the transmission, replaced all of the gears and synchro's, etc... and it STILL grinds going into 3rd gear. I have spent 4 thousand dollars on this damned truck and no one can figure out why this thing still grinds. Toyota says they don't even made the transmission anymore and if we were to take it to them to have it completely replaced, it would be almost 7 thousand dollars. 4 grand spent and it's still not fixed and no one seems to know how to fix it. The 2 transmission shops it went to was AAMCO and another local transmission shop, neither could figure it out. So unless I decide to pony up 7 thousand dollars for an aftermarket transmission from Toyota, I guess I'm just stuck with a 3rd gear grind for the rest of the trucks life.