Homemade Crank Pulley Tool

not bad

 

I thought it was a decent time. We were not in a hurry and there was a few cold beverages consumed as well.

 

wish i saw this a long time ago. i didnt want to remove the radiator etc to use an impact gun since you cant fit anything in there worth of crap. just ended up using a 3 foot breaker bar with a pipe wrench while the truck was in 4wd low and on blocks and still ended up moving with that. had to heat it, still destroyed the pulley but thats what i was replacing anyways. will make one of these next time or just pull the radiator nice work tho

 

5th gear in 2wd would have worked better...

 

I made one of these 4-5 years ago when doing the belt job in my wife's old 4Runner. Layed it against the frame when I was re-torquing the crank pulley. Dame thing busted the cast ring in the balancer! So I pulled it off, got a used balancer, and put it back on using my impact and some loctite. I took it off with the impact too. It's been 70k miles since then and it's still fine. Of course it's due for another belt soon but it's not mine any more so I don't have to do it this time.

 

This is a good video to show how well & un eventful this method is when done properly, I've used this method many times....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=O_6SFBg7_dg#t=3s

 

I used this method lastnight to both remove and reinstall my crank pulley bolt. I saw some other references to this method using an old timing belt to remove timing cam gears which I also used successfully. Not my idea, just interpreting it for use on the crank bolt.

Use an old, intact belt to wrap around the crank pulley so that it is doubled under and wrapped onto itself, catching the loop on the nearby stud sticking out from the lower timing cover / fan mount. See pics...

This pic shows how the belt is looped around the pulley for bolt removal, the black disc representing the pulley. Installation is the mirror image...

I have used the "starter trick" before without a problem, but I hear that you can potentially break flywheel teeth, the starter, or a minute chance of damaging bearings. I liked this method because I could feel how tight the bolt was coming off, using a 1/2" drive socket, a breaker bar, and a 3' cheater bar over that. Not having a torque wrench to go above 150lbs, I tightened it (tighter than hell) proportionately to the force it took me to remove it.

 

Bout a year ago did the timing, new water pump, crank seal and cam seals with a friend. Took us a couple days cause we had a HELLUVA time getting the seals out. Then we found that crushing the seals (carefully!) with a flathead and a pair of needlenose turned that job into a five minute ordeal, lol. Anyway, as far as a tool to hold the crank pulley while breaking loose the nut, we cut the old timing belt EXACTLY the same distance around the pulley, then held 'er in place with a good grade chain break (wrench, tong or whatever you wanna call it). Then another breaker bar with the socket and she was done. No radiator pull or anything, just the fan. Worked great. Had to cycle antifreeze when done but who cares about that? That's playground shyte, hahahahaha.

EDIT: Used the same method for the cam pulleys. Sorry bout that! Only done that job once ya know!

 

@ yellozebra: Very cool man.

 

Does anyone have experience with the Schley SP 64400 tool? I need a tool and don't mind spending the money for this provided I know it works good.

 

Guess I'll answer my own question since I now have experience with the SP 64400 tool. It worked great.

 

Yellowzebra that is very clever. For those with manual transmissions, just put it in 5th gear. Works for me every time for proper torque.

 

I did mine with a breaker bar laid on the frame and bump the starter. For tightening just put in 4th and "torque" to spec (i.e. really fawking tight). If you have an auto then I fell sorry because you have the wrong transmission

 

Thanks for this

 

Nice ill be making this soon. If anyone needs its pm. Ill be doing the timing belt, water pump and all other stuff as well.

 

That's how I remove those bolts too, just a click of the key and you can finger that bolt right off. Also, be sure to unplug the distributor harness or harnesses on coils (if distributorless) so it doesn't start up, you'd have a bad day if it does!

 

Here is my go at it. It's on a pivot so I can use it on a different pulley if I ever need to.





The factory tool that Toyota dealers use is about $250. Buying a universal holder from is about $53. Here is the break down of what mine cost me:

$13.77 - 1/4x48 flat stock
$2.12 - Two M8x1.25x60 bolts
$0.82 - Six M8x1.25 nuts
$0.79 - 3/8 bolt
$0.58 - 3/8 nylon self locking nut
$0.26 - Two 3/8 washers

Bare bones would have cost me $18.34 but I decided to paint it and Plasti Dip a handle on it so after primer, paint, and Plasti Dip at an additional $17.46 my final price was $35.80 which is $17.20 cheaper than the universal tool and a whopping ~$214.20 cheaper than the tool Toyota garages use.

 

so how often do you actually have to change the timing belt on the 3.4 engine?

the way I see people talk about it, you'd swear its like every other year this needs to be done lol

seriously, how often do you do this? im thinking of getting a 3.4 taco

 

I recommend people do it every 80-100K (including water pump.)
I usually just buy the Aisin kit that has all the idler pulleys, w/p, and tensioner.
Removing the Crank bolt I ALWAYS use the breaker bar and hit the key method, dont worry about unhooking coils or anything, if it starts it just takes the bolt completely out. I dont normally have to remove radiator, to install I have a strap or chain wrench to tighten back to spec, and always put a drop of red loc-tite on the bolt before install.

 

thanks