OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

I have successfully installed my third kit in an fj cruiser with identical issue. Both tacomas and the fj are 1 million times better after the repair!

Thank you ECGS!

John

 

^^ From page DF-36 of the factory service manual:

Step 30 (a). "Install a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the differential carrier end.

30 (b). Coat oil seal lip with MP [multi-purpose] grease. Oil seal driven in depth: -0.45 to 0.45mm (-0.017 to 0.017in.)"

- Don't use a generic oil seal, use an OEM one and make sure you get the correct one for the left side as the seals are special directional-type seals. The parts people are known to mess this up.

- The coiled spring under the oil seal lip faces inward toward the spider gears. Make sure you do not knock the spring off during installation.

- Drive the seal in as straight as possible. Take your time and go slow. Tap, tap, tap, tap... alternating locations constantly. Crooked seals leak. Also, don't hit it in the middle as it will bend the metal frame and leak. Work around the outside of the seal's diameter. I used an old bearing race with the O.D. the same size as the O.D. of the seal to drive it in but a circular piece of plywood cut out in the middle would also work. Others here may also have some good suggestions. The PVC pipe illustrated above by 05 Moose looks like a winner to me.

- How deep did you drive in the bushing? Make sure you did not drive it in so far as it is hitting the spider gears. If in doubt, take some feeler gauges and make sure the end has some space (I'd say at least 0.003-0.005in.) between the bushing and the spider gears. If you are just installing the bushing a better bet may be to drive only to the point where you could get the puller behind it again if necessary.

- Did you remember to put the split ring on the end of the shaft? Orienting the split of the ring downward can help a bit in driving the shaft back in. Once seated, the shaft should have some free play along the horizontal axis. It is the play in the groove the split ring sits in within the spider gears.

- The splines on the shaft can cut the lip of the oil seal. I liberally coat both with grease and go very carefully.

- You said you had play in the CV. Is it the axial play I mention above or deflection slop in the tulip? Or is it play in the CV joint itself? Can you elaborate?

 

Can someone measure the new bushing and lmk the id, od and length?

Theres a few listed on the SKF bearing site but i want to have the correct one on hand before i pull it apart.

thanks.

 

^^^ Your post has me confused. Are you trying to find something similar to the ECGS bushing from SKF? If so, why bother, just order one from ECGS and be done with it. If you act fast, today they are 10% off.

 

Thanks to everyone for helping.I got everything back together .I tried to set the first oil seal too deep and apparently that is why it was leaking ,I flush seated the second one and no oil leaks yet. The bushing was set almost flush maybe just a little bit of an edge could be felt sticking out .I will post a progress report after a few more miles.

 

I just received my bushing in the mail. Have a look at the pictures, did everyones bushing have a seam on the inside tbat is rough to the toucch? I expected it to be dead smooth. Same on the outside. If I run my finger over the outside, there is a noticable ridge in the center.

Second, which side of the bushing goes into the diff? The solid side or the side with the two layers?

 

the 2 layer side goes into the diff
and yours looks better then mine did......

 

What about the inside?

 

Best answers you are going to get are from ECGS

 

The solid side faces out. The inside bushing is not a continuous piece it is split and when pressed in closes the gap. The ridge is the teflon coating overlay. Just install as is and the ridge will flatten out.

The install instructions are listed on our site in the bushing product page for reference and posted here.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/attachment/37734-T8CS BUSH INSTALL.pdf

 

Well I am back to report that I still have the same problem.a humming /resonating sound/vibration at ~60 something.
So far I have replaced the rear drive shaft and yoke .
The front drivers side Bushing from ECG.
The drivers side CV axle.
The drivers side wheel bearing hub assembly.
changed out the drivers side wheel with the spare tire.
The passenger side wheel turns smooth with no rough spots.
The problem is there in or out of 4 wheel drive.
I cant tell where the sound vibration is coming from -front or back.
?

 

Take heart, I feel you pain. I had a Subaru Outback that developed what sounded like a wheel bearing noise. I replaced every bearing in that car including the drive shaft, differential, CVs, all wheel bearings and still the noise.

One day I saw a freeking piece of gravel wedged between a subframe mount and its bracket. Reached for a screw driver and removed the rock. Noise gone. After spending a boatload of money and learning a new vocabulary, the fix was free.

 

Ha ha , thanks for the moral support . I may just drive it until the problem gets worse , I am tired of replacing parts.

 

I am in exactly the same boat with you TR1957. Done ECGS bushing , driver side axle shaft , Both front wheel bearing, tire tod end, stabillize bar link...etc ... After replaced all that parts the vibes, humms ... Still there ... WTF ... So i just ignored the vibe/humm and drove the truck harder like i am stoling it. My Truck's tachometer rarely pass 2500 rpm under normal driving since i bought it. Till lately (after replaced the bushing...etc) everytime i getting in the truck i alway ramped up the gas paddle ... MPG went down hill... But who care i am mad. As after dumping all that monies tried to get rid of stupid vibe/humm but apparently it still there laughing in my face ...))-: Surprisedly after 2000 miles driving my truck like a madman the vibe and humm went away it self.... I am happy camper now... Back to baby it again ....lol.
I am installed leather seats upholsteries last week.

 

Thanks again for sending me the home made bearing puller ,I used your idea to make my own .I think I will just drive the truck for awhile and see what happens . I would think it should be easy to track down a vibration /noise that is related to some spinning part but I guess I am wrong.

 

One more question. The new diff oil seal; should it be driven in to be flush with the outside of the diff?

 

I drove the new diff oil seal O.D flushed with the inner lip (metal shinny) diff housing when i did mine. If you still have oil gear leak issuses after installed the oil seal squared and flush... There are 2 things you should do to solve it. First check the your truck front diff breather ( inside engine compartment on driver side obove the wheel well) to see if it clog up. if it clog up or not spin freely take it out clean it or replace with a new one. Second i think you may have over filled the diff gear oils. Drive your truck around in 4 wheel mode for 10 minutes. Then park it on a level driveway remove the "FILL" plug let all the access oild drain. Check fluid level with your finger and close the "FILL" plug.

 

I am thinking about strapping a fm wireless microphone to different parts of the drive train and listen for the noise on the radio while driving.

 

Can anyone tell me what size socket for the axle nut on 2nd Gen 4x4?

 

35mm