Long Travel BS Thread

this is what iv heard too, i actually need to do the same thing now that you mention it ha I ran into a buddy who had one with him a few weeks ago who was gona fix his so i got the part number off him, his at least was

77213-35370

 

Adam sent me this pic his buddy got from Pismo, pretty stoked on an action shot. This was a rad little jump Brian showed me the night before and we went back and hit it the next day.

 

did a few google searches and came up blank, anyone know of a company making solid motor mounts for a 2.7 or came across one at somepoint?

 

if you followed the issues, a few companies included DMZ have noted that it's not the motor mounts that are weak or breaking, it's the frame where the motor mounts are mounted that are caving in. Get a homie to plate the frame and you'll be fine. Otherwise, hit up DMZ

 

That's the neck I used on my 05 taco. Worked great.
Fuel tank to filler pipe hose. Part#77213-35370

 

I did my own rear LT and I am not sure if you can get away with using the stock hangers. It is going to cost you more money to get a custom pack that will fit then it would cost to just move the hangers. Click on my sig picture and my build has a ton of pics, if you have any questions let me know

 

spindles are back in if anyone is interested, message us... engage

 

Bought some 1"ID Fuel Hose, Clamps and a Female x Female hose barb for 5 bucks.

I just used the barb to connect the new hose to the existing hose, followed by the filler neck. I also added a small section of 5/8" hose to the other piece of the neck.

 

This exactly!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

I gotta do this soon!

 

Anyone ever get a p2111 code when jumping? Throttle acted weird until I restarted the motor and it is working fine now.

 

No.

 

It came on right as I landed. It was a hard landing though. I've been abusing it some more until now (minus hard Jumps) and it has been fine though. Probably need to just clean my throttle body out and check the connection.



Just got home a little bit ago. It has been fine since. Maybe I will clean it out today if I find a friend's driveway to borrow. (I live in an apartment complex now and can't do shit...)

When the CEL came on we popped the hood and looked and listened and didn't notice anything obvious and temps were fine. When I got back in the cab I noticed that it was idling at 1100 rpm (at this point I had already googled the code and knew what it was) so I gave it some throttle and it barely moved so I put the pedal to the floor and held it and it would peak between 2000-2500rpm. Let off the throttle dropped to 1100 rpm, floored it again and only revved up to 2XXXrpm again... CEL wouldn't clear, so I just shut the engine off let it sit for a second then restarted it, CEL was gone and it has acted fine since.

 

^I would slow down on the jumping, aren't you just running bilstein 5100s?

Is there a way to check if an alternator is good or bad? Stupid question I know but I'm trying to diagnose my truck before taking it to a shop and not familiar with electronics. It was dead this morning. Jump starts fine, idled for 5-7 minutes, went to drive it and its not responding/slowly loosing power. I tried this process again and same results. Its got 123,000 miles on it too..

 

Go to Vatozone Krish...most of them have a battery/alternator tester. Some shops don't have a mobile alternator tester though...so you might have to drive around a lil bit...or just call

 

Do they have a mobile tester? (on a cart) Try limping over there?

 

Yes, with the truck running you should be getting 14 volts at the battery. If it's below that...time for a new alt. Another hillbilly way is to take off the positive battery cable with the truck running and if it dies, you know the alt is toast. I just replaced mine, oreilly's has the rebuilt OEM bosch units in stock. Don't put a china one in there, they don't last. I just replaced mine with around 80,000 miles on it, but it has been scuba diving several times and appeared to have eaten a lot of sand and a handful of gravel judging by the looks of it lol.

The brushes probably had 50K miles left in them or so.

Why mine failed; the deally whopper dun broke. It appears to have been that way for some time. (voltage regulator assembly)

 

edit:13.8 to 14.5 and should maintain and confirm by turning on headlights and reading voltage.

the second option works too but a big if as to what could happen to the ecu, I used to do it to pre ECU cars (yeah i had a few)

 

Mine still runs. I suppose it isn't the "right" way, but nothing I do is. Lol.

 

My voltage is at 13.8 while driving, is my alternator going?