Colorado B.S. Thread

ouch, thats awkward!!!!!!

 

i bought mine used, a 2010 with

$714 36xxx Jobsite Chest, 36" W x 19" D x 16" H, Tan

36xxx miles on it in 2011 paid 24 and change. in alabama the manual was tough to find but i played the dealer like a fiddle on it. they had it listed as an automatic and it had the leer shell. i dont think id ever buy new again. two months later i got an email from the ford dealer i bought it from asking me to come sell it back and let them put me in a new ford. the ol we need used cars trick. it has barely depreciated at all from what i paid

 

I never thought I'd buy new either due to the amount of money that you light on fire the second you leave the lot. However, after doing some Craigslist shopping around the Denver area (and within a couple hundred miles of), I realized that if I wanted a clean, low mile Taco, I was only going to be spending about $1k less to get used over new. It made my decision easy.

 

Same here. I could not find a used 12 or 13 for less than I got mine new. Made it a pretty simple decision really.

 

The reason it had barely depreciated was because they had margin in their new vehicles. That's how they get you. Make you think they're going to give you all the money on your trade when they've got thousands of cushion in their vehicle to make it seem like you're putting one over on them. It's all a #'s game.

I got a 2010 4x4 CPO's w/22k miles and a Supercharger for about that last year. It helps if you've been in the biz and know how the system really works.

 

Nissan Larry H Miller here in denver I would never recommend it
was looking for a car for the wife back in Jan sales guy was ok but the finance manger was a tool, after a few hours of working a price out the door for a car he comes back and says oh i cant make that work so when i told him we were leaving he took his print outs and threw them across the sales floor like a 5 year old throwing a fit

 

If I end up going to a dealer for a car (again):

1.) I am going to email them for a quote.
2.) If they can't get me out the door within an hour, I'm leaving.

You guys are way too patient, waiting 8 hours for the salesman to "sell" you the car. If they want the sale, they will have their shit together and have the paperwork in front of you.

 

That's how my transaction was. I got the email quote, went in and did a couple of test drives (Sport vs OR) and talked about options. I then shopped around to see if I couldn't get a better price (I couldn't even get that price matched). So I went back and put my $1000 down for them to order the truck for me. Done.

 

2 week juice fast check-in (technically day 15 but we won't get into the math associated with these terms):


Starting Weight: 290.8
Current Weight: 270.6
Previous Weight: 270.4
Lost since yesterday: +0.2 :-(
Total Weight lost: 20.2

The first thing that might jump out at you was that I've gained weight for the first time during this 2 weeks. Sunday when I got up I was the same weight I was Saturday morning & today I had expected to wake up to even higher loss than my recent trend of 1.5lbs/day. Needless to say I was surprised and bummed to see that my weight had not only not decreased once again but had actually gone up. I did some research and it seems as though these plateaus can happen with juice diets and I'm changing a few things to try to keep ahead of the curve and get back on the gravy train. I found this site with some pro tips on overcoming a weight loss plateau so I'm going to try a few of those as most of the rest were in line. One of the big things I think is that I'm going to make more veggie juices. I had been wanting to do that anyway and this list even mentions that. I think I saw that you want a split of 80/20 veggie/fruit intake so I will start trying to get closer to that as I had been drinking more of the fruit Bolthouse Farm juices. I was starting to get tired of the sweet taste anyway so I decided to start doing more veggies. I'm going to do nothing but fresh veggie juices for the next 24hrs and see how that affects things. Here's a recipe I just made that is pretty tasty:

5 carrots
5 stalks celery
1/2 green pepper
2 tomatoes
1/2 head broccoli w/stem
1 Serrano Pepper

This yields one large glass of juice and is pretty tasty. The flavor is pretty mellow and you would probably even lower the carrots and celery by 1 for less juice if you don't want it and this would serve to enhance the other flavors.

I just wanted to post an update even though it wasn't positive for those keeping an eye on things to see that it happens and don't let it discourage you if/when it does. Check that link and see if there's anything you can do to spark the loss again or if it's just going to be a matter of time.

 

While we've never purchased anything from them, we always go there for parts and look around. All the salesmen we've encountered are very nice and non pressuring and always remember us when we come in. Most of them seem to actually know about the trucks too which is a plus.

 

Anyone ever heard this mumbo jumbo that 5100's set at 2.5" change the spring rate and make the truck ride more harsh?

 

Yes. With OR springs as they're progressive.

 

I keep hearing the same thing all over this forum since I joined but it's not true. The fact that the springs are progressive have nothing to do with it. There's a mini debate about it going on here if anyone cares to join. I want someone to prove me wrong but so far no luck. I planned my suspension on this 'fact' before I started and if I had to do all over again, having seen first hand how the suspension on these trucks work, I wouldn't do it the same way. I'd order up another 1" or so ALL and do the full 2.5" on the 5100 up front.

 

If the spring is progressive and you apply more preload to it, wouldn't that reduce the effectiveness of the spring? Therefore your ride would be worse.

 

I switched my 2nd gens front springs to the eibachs and I liked them. With the 5100's @2.5 then I put them to 1.75.

 

That's the definition of a progressive coil. It gets stiffer as you compress it. Therefore, if you have a suspension component that's pre-loading it (aka compressing it), it's going to be stiffer.

 

I understand what progressive means. Tell me how you're applying more pre-load simply by adjusting from 0" to 1.75" or even 2.5" The top of the spring moves 1:1 whatever distance you increase the height which is how you get lift. Might want to read that thread before we start the same debate here. I don't disagree with how a progressive spring works. My stance is that changing the setting of the 5100 in and of itself does NOT change the compression. There's more factors that aren't being taken into consideration by people saying this.

 

With stock springs on a setup like that, all you change is the installed (full droop) preload. All your doing is changing the installed height. Think of it like a lift block, stock ride, just higher.

One could argue that because the control arm angle changed, that caused the ride difference. At the heights given from that lift, I don't really think so.

 

You guy are looking at it wrong. While the uninstalled preload did increase, the total spring compression at ride height is the same as a stock truck. Initial preload has nothing to do with ride height or the springs reaction to/at ride height.

 

As much as I know you love to argue, I'm not going to debate it. If you want me to say you win, that's fine. I really don't care enough about it.