PCV valve replacement

PCV valve replacement: re 2008 Tacoma V6.
After searching the internet and finding minimal info on the PCV valve replacement I thought I’d add my $0.02 worth.
To start, make sure your engine is cold. The job is a minor PITA but it’s less so with the engine cold.
Tools that I used for the job:
19 mm socket that is 2.5 inches long
3/8 inch drive ratchet about 6 inches long
18 inch steel pipe about 1 inch diameter
5/8 inch inside diameter fuel line tubing, 2.5 inches long, any straight tubing will do.
Fender cover
Throttle body cleaner




PCV valve. At the valve, squeeze the wire spring clamps together, pull toward you about ¼ inch, pull the hose off the valve. It comes off with minimal effort.



PCV valve with hose removed



Socket, ratchet and extension in place.




Put the pipe over the wrench, stabilize the wrench as best you can and apply fairly heavy counter clockwise pressure (my valve was probably installed by Godzilla, because it took some effort to get the sucker moving).




Once the valve is turning easily, push the tubing over the end of the valve and rotate until you can pull it out (the tubing will help prevent dropping the valve between the firewall and the engine). Rattle the valve, if it rattles, good. Give it a shot or three of throttle body cleaner, until it runs out clear. If it does not rattle and you give it a number of shots of cleaner and it still doesn’t rattle, you’re going to have to buy a new valve. Push the tube over the valve, this will make screwing it in easier.




I torqued it to 20 ft lbs.




Push the hose over the valve, this will help to screw it in and replace the wire clamp. That should do it. HTH this helps someone.


Oh yea, don’t forget to use your fender cover. Ok, ok, I know it says Ford, but there is no way I'm buying a Tacoma fender cover until this one gives up the ghost.
Mark

 

CORRECTION: the inside diameter of the fuel line tubing should be 5/16" not 5/8"!!!

 

Thanks for this post. I did a major tune-up this weekend and decided to replace the PCV valve, which opened up a Pandora's box for me. I had a hard time finding the valve....only one auto store had one and only one in stock. When I tried to screw it into the engine block, it would only go about 1/2 way. I thought the treads on the block were messed up, so I spend half the next day hunting down a tap, which I never did find. I think it would be about a 15 or 16mm tap, but I cannot find any specs on the thread size. Anyway, I gave up and just torqued it down to about 20 ft-lbs.

From your pictures, it looks like it is not designed to screw all the way down to the block, is that true? Maybe it is a tapered hole in the block? I've spent a bit of time searching for answer to this, but cannot find one. I hope someone on here can verify whether or not the valve should screw down flush with the engine block. Here's how mine looked with the new valve torqued to 20 ft-lbs:

 

Compared to the 2nd photo of the original factory installed one in OP post, it looks to be about the same amount of thread showing. I'd say your good to go. If you have doubt check for vacuum leak. Squirt a shot of motor oil around the threads after you start it and see if it gets sucked in or bubbles.

 

Thanks byrd. Good idea with the shot of motor oil. The hole must be tapered. I'm glad I didn't find that tap in town. Otherwise I'd probably have a broken tap stuck in the engine block right now, or messed up block threads.

 

Hey op what is the Part number and where did you order it from?

 

You can find at the stealership for V6:

Part Number 1220431030
Part Name VALVE SUB-ASSY, VENT
MSRP $5.57

 

Thanks i looked on Rockauto.com it was 3.50 for the same part.

 

No problem, is there shipping involved? Some charge some don't. If not that's the cheapest plan.

 

yea so going to the stealership is cheaper.

 

LOL! Yeah sometimes it is, but then there are some places if you spend a minimum amount they ship it all free. Just have to shop around.

Also they recommend that you take it out every 30k and spray it out with carb cleaner to get the gunk out, if it rattles it's still good. If it doesn't, replace.

 

One question do you need to put like Teflon tape on the new PCV value??

 

No mention of it in the manual. I would say no.
It does say if your PCV valve is clogged it will cause your front or rear seal to blow due to pressure buildup inside engine. If your leaking oil from there that could be the cause. Learn something new everyday, I was unaware of that.

 

i need to check mine :S.

 

Same here, I got 53k on her now so that is now bumped to the top of my to do list. I always knew you could clean them out and if no rattle replace, but not about the possible blowing of seals. I can do without that.

 

Damn stealership i just order new pvc value 6.35.

 

Your in Ca that's why, my dealer shows $5.57 for the online price which is what they would charge me in house. Your prices must be a little higher out there. That sucks.

 

Well op thanks for doing write up.

 

I bought mine at Autozone, $12.50! Seems like a non-standard PCV valve. It wasn't out on the display rack with all the others....was behind the counter. And only 1 store in town had one.

 

Change mine yesterday the original still had the rattle but i stuck the new one in 100k it was still good to go.