Maintenance

Soo what have you guys done to your trucks in regular repairs?

I have about 87k and have only been changing the oil on a regular basis amd changed the stock air filter.

What do you guys suggest I change?

 

Not trying to be smart, but... Do you have an owners manual? All the maintenance should be listed in there.

If you don't have one, this is a great place to be.

At a minimum... Front & rear differential oils & transfer case oil should be changed every 30,000 miles. Automatic trannies don't need changed for 100,000 miles. I'm not sure about manual trannies -someone else can comment.

Lubricating your driveshaft grease zerks every 30,000 miles.

Rotate your tires every 5,000 miles.

 

what about front and rear brakes?

 

Spark plugs for sure since you haven't done them

 

Not as regular maintenance but replace as needed. You should change/flush the brake fluid every 2 years though. Coolant I usually do every 5 years but I know a lot of people who change it every 2. On manual transmissions I usually change the gear oil with the diffs and t-case every 30k miles. I have to say I was extremely happy looking at the service records of the 05 I just bought. Guy maintained it just like I would have. At the dealer and there were notes saying they didn't recommend some of the services but did it at his request. Much nicer than when I checked the records on the last one I had and just about every entry said "customer declined service"! That truck was a mess. But it was cheap.

 

Brakes are an 'as needed' - when they get thin and/or the rotors get scored/worn.

With brakes..... the pad wear will vary tremendously from person to person. There's no way of determining mileage of pads.

 

For general maintenance, check your owner's manual. For general repairs, I fix what's broken or is giving you signs of wearing out. So far, that's included pulleys (idler and tensioner pulley + belt), LCA bushings, brake pads and rotors, auto door locks, HVAC fan and a new battery. Soon, I will need to attack the drive line as my carrier bearing is wearing out and I will replace the universals while I'm in there.

 

I recall the 4 cylinder suggested interval for replacement was 100k miles. Of course I did them at 85k on the 05 4cyl I had. Air filters should be changed obviously too. Frequency depends on conditions obviously.

 

Hot damn! Are you saying, finally a vehicle I don't have to install all my own zerk fittings!? Woo!

What about the suspension? Does that have any fittings?

 

Maintenance Menu:
http://www.toyota.ca/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WWW.woa/6/wo/Home.Owners.MaintenanceMenu-otPE6TVv9lDv60sKGd0azw/3.7?o110000e%2ehtml

 

With the drive line, it depends on which model you bought. I don't believe all the models have servicable fittings. If I'm recalling correctly, only the 4wd models have a greasable driveline.

The suspension does not have any fittings. If your truck is new though, it's not a bad idea to remove the lower control arm bolts, grease them and reinstall them. They have a tendancy to rust in place.

 

Toyota also says that ATF is set for the life of the vehicle, which they added later for a drain and flush at 100k and now 60k, but that doesn't mean it's right. 100k on spark plugs are excessive even on iridium plugs which I know are not stock in the 4 cylinders. 25-35k for copper tops depending on driving conditions.

 

For maintenance, see this sticky in the technical chat forums:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...nance-2nd-gen-30-000-60-000-90-000-miles.html

Also, ATF is NOT for the life of the vehicle. Trust me.
Mine was black as night at 60k. Toyota changed their recommendation to a flush every 60k. It's not that hard to do yourself if you follow the guides on this site.

 

ATF is NOT for the life of the vehicle. I also said that above

It wasn't always so, they've changed it to that interval after years of the 2nd gen being in existence. But it is 60k now

 

Yeah, sorry, I was agreeing with you.

On a side note, my diff and trans oils were also very dark at 60k. After about 3000 miles, the rear diff looked dark again... I found it was contamination from water. Since relocating my breather, I have not had that problem.

 

for my 07 atomatic v6 4x4 gets an oil change & tire rotation every 3k and every 30k is the bigger services for instance

90k



and 150k

 

all of these are good suggestions however... if youv'e not done any of the above listed flushes (Transmission & diff) then it may not be a good idea... I know people are going to argue with me here but i've seen this scenario tons of times and it always turns out the same: someone here's that their diff's were supposed to be flushed every 30k and theyre now at almost 90k (three cycle periods in) so they figure "OH SHIT!! i'm way overdue!!" and change the fluid... 2 months goes by and their diffs blow up.. (same with transmissions but obviously on their own flush schedules)

now here's the reasoning: if you leave the same fluid in a diff or tranny, then the parts get used to the old fluid. the teeth on the gears will wear a little to accommodate the built up gunk that's in there and when you flush all that out and put in fresh they start to slip because of the missing build-up.

so in the end, if you've missed doing the flush cycles I'd STRONGLY advise against it... if you want, pop the fill plug and top the fluids if they're low at all but I wouldn't drain them.

just my 2c

 

Along with what everyone else has said, might want to clean the throttle body

 

I type in my system what ever mileage I have and I shows me what Toyota requires so I screen shot it and posted that's all

 

Never heard of that happening with differentials... Also, with the transmission, it's the torque convertor, not the gears that don't operate if it's too worn in using bad fluid. If the gears themselves are worn so badly that changing the fluid causes them to grenade, they were screwed to begin with and the fresh fluid was not the culprit. They probably started hearing weird noises, then decided to change the diff fluid but, by that time, it was already too late.

The torque convertor works on forcing fluid between plates so if the fluid is gritty, it can be the reason the plates continue to have enough friction to operate. Changing to fresh fluid takes the grit away and can make it so the torque convertor no longer functions. It begins to slip excessively and eventually just pukes out.