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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

Page 1865 of 11191
  1. Jul 20, 2013 at 10:41 PM
    #37281
    se7enine

    #37281
    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    I went with OEM cause I had the budget for them. I think most last over 100k so I should be good for a while.
     
    se7enine, Jul 20, 2013
    #37281
  2. Jul 20, 2013 at 10:45 PM
    #37282
    Bennett707

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    Bennett707 Station707

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    No more taco life for me
    is replacing the spindle something people do? I don't recall seeing a post about it tbh.
     
    Bennett707, Jul 20, 2013
    #37282
  3. Jul 20, 2013 at 10:52 PM
    #37283
    Ice Horse

    #37283
    Ice Horse Stalking horse

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    ADS Racing Shocks 2.5" Extended Travel Coilovers with Reservoirs, 3 inch All Pro rear suspension kit, factory E-locker, Trail Gear sliders and front stinger bumper, CBI Offroad rear tube bumper, XRC8 Winch, 33 inch BFG KM2's, 16 inch Ivan Stewart Wheels, Uniden CB radio, flip up license plate, white tail lights, LED front signals, Tundra front brake upgrade, new radio, rock lights, sub woofer, remote start, satoshi grille with Prius emblem, Rigid DOT/SAE Fog Lights, 12" Light Bar
    Does anyone make quick remove sway bars? Since the word came up lol
     
    Ice Horse, Jul 20, 2013
    #37283
  4. Jul 20, 2013 at 10:54 PM
    #37284
    Blackdawg

    #37284
    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    I have some I've never used. Sme guy made em and I bout em off TTORA.
     
    Blackdawg, Jul 20, 2013
    #37284
  5. Jul 20, 2013 at 10:56 PM
    #37285
    Bennett707

    #37285
    Bennett707 Station707

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    ya this! if I would have had sound on or read the text.... but now at least I will know it without having to have it pointed out.
     
    Bennett707, Jul 20, 2013
    #37285
  6. Jul 20, 2013 at 11:01 PM
    #37286
    oldblue1968chevy

    #37286
    oldblue1968chevy Well-Known Member

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    Stock
    Moog is supposed to be good stuff USA nascar grade?

    Im using them for my frame off 69 c/10 build.
     
    oldblue1968chevy, Jul 20, 2013
    #37286
  7. Jul 21, 2013 at 5:08 AM
    #37287
    StevoNB

    #37287
    StevoNB Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the FSM downloaded? It seems to have pretty clear instructions with torque specs and pictures too.

    All these BJ failures are making me nervous.
     
    StevoNB, Jul 21, 2013
    #37287
  8. Jul 21, 2013 at 5:46 AM
    #37288
    Rmodel65

    #37288
    Rmodel65 Yukon Cornelius

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    WTF do not follow this advice unless you want to mushroom the bolts and ruin them yeah it might have worked for him but it is a very bad idea


    try this so you dont ruin your tie rod end especially... http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/shockandfall/shockfall1.htm
     
    Rmodel65, Jul 21, 2013
    #37288
  9. Jul 21, 2013 at 6:04 AM
    #37289
    SPOTSONTROUT

    #37289
    SPOTSONTROUT Well-Known Member

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    OME 882,DAKAR LEAF PAC WITH ADDA LEAF,285 TOYO OPEN COUNTRY MT,RACELINE RENAGADES,DECK PLATE MOD, MANUAL HUB CONVERSION
    Did my R&P bushings this morning.
     
    SPOTSONTROUT, Jul 21, 2013
    #37289
  10. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:28 AM
    #37290
    TacoSkeet

    #37290
    TacoSkeet 'MERICA

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    Used my taco to pick this up yesterday. 1985 Honda Odyssey FL350. Super rare go kart/dune buddy, full independent suspension with a 700cc Polaris snowmobile engine.

    Odyssey_zps575fce6f_a82f51ebab2deb264ae497cb16361d9cabce20f2.jpg
     
    TacoSkeet, Jul 21, 2013
    #37290
  11. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:34 AM
    #37291
    Madjik_Man

    #37291
    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    That looks like a lot of fun.
     
    Madjik_Man, Jul 21, 2013
    #37291
  12. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:37 AM
    #37292
    Madjik_Man

    #37292
    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I do. It seems rather simplified. Now mind you, I've never done anything like this so my ignorance my be making it seem more difficult than it really is.

    This is what I have:
     

    Attached Files:

    Madjik_Man, Jul 21, 2013
    #37292
  13. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:47 AM
    #37293
    Dirty Pool

    #37293
    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    The OEM joints will last an easy 100K mile. All LBJ boots will seep grease. It means nothing with OEM. Aftermarket joints with zerks are cheapo metal on metal construction and NEED to be greased. The OEM type "polished ball/PTFE liner" needs no additional lube. What seeps out is just "extra".

    Catastrophic failure of a ball joint could easily kill.

    If you haven't, read this entire thread. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/274297-lower-ball-joints.html
    Additionally I have seen more endorsements from reputable sources about the Raybestos "Pro Grade" line recomended by "KenLyns", not the cheaper line they offer. I officially now say OEM then the Raybestos Pro Grade and skip Moog/555.
    As a follow up, more and more Moog/555 problems are cropping up and I will be editing the links in this post accordingly.

    Take a look at post #41 here. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/266989-ball-joints-3.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
    Dirty Pool, Jul 21, 2013
    #37293
  14. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:48 AM
    #37294
    steve o 77

    #37294
    steve o 77 braaap

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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    Time for LT
    [​IMG]
     
    steve o 77, Jul 21, 2013
    #37294
  15. Jul 21, 2013 at 7:51 AM
    #37295
    Madjik_Man

    #37295
    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah I read those threads last night. Thanks for all the info.
     
    Madjik_Man, Jul 21, 2013
    #37295
  16. Jul 21, 2013 at 8:01 AM
    #37296
    Dirty Pool

    #37296
    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    I did the same thing, never installed them. They used about the cheapest rod ends made. They have been taking up space on the shelf for 12 years

    I would be happy to talk you through it over PM and or phone if we can arrange a mutually acceptable time.
    I didn't see it mentioned, maybe I missed it, you will need a torque wrench and the shock must be removed. It really is a pretty straight forward procedure and I would recommend, buy/borrow/rent a puller as opposed to a hammer or pickle fork.
     
    Dirty Pool, Jul 21, 2013
    #37296
  17. Jul 21, 2013 at 8:10 AM
    #37297
    Madjik_Man

    #37297
    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah, I think it's about time to buy a torque wrench. I can't justify a snap-on one, which I know are best, but I was thinking a Husky or Craftsman for $80-100 ish.

    And yeah, the youtube video I watched of a guy doing it on a pre-95 Toyota pick up, used the puller. Seemed more efficient to use.

    Thanks for the offer... I might Skype you when it comes to it so you can walk me through it :laughing:
     
    Madjik_Man, Jul 21, 2013
    #37297
  18. Jul 21, 2013 at 8:12 AM
    #37298
    Slodgetto

    #37298
    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Yeah, Moog is the best for lbj's. I simply go through boots rather quickly. :eek: OEM were no different...

    Not really........... Only replace spindle if it's damaged.
    Meh, shock method has never worked for me. It might be worth it to try though... Like I mentioned, if you thread the castle nut backwards on the stud to protect the threads, it's very unlikely you'll mushroom the bolts. Especially if you use a small block of wood to dampen blows, or if you use a brass hammer like I do. (I should have said that earlier.) But yeah, not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I've never been able to free a ball joint via the shock method.

    If you have one, a pitman arm puller is the safest method. (Like what SafetyDang used in the vid to pull the tre stud) You could probably rent one, too...

    That it! It really is pretty simple, though. :cool:
    :laughing:
     
    Slodgetto, Jul 21, 2013
    #37298
  19. Jul 21, 2013 at 8:15 AM
    #37299
    steve o 77

    #37299
    steve o 77 braaap

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    FWIW a pitman arm puller worked perfect for me on the TRE's. I used a BFH on the LBJ because I was replacing it anyway.
     
    steve o 77, Jul 21, 2013
    #37299
  20. Jul 21, 2013 at 8:15 AM
    #37300
    RMAN808

    #37300
    RMAN808 S)(AKALO)(AWAII

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    Are these worth selling? If so, how much you think I should try to get from them (local classifieds)? Stock suspension 102k.

    IMG_5441_zps95499996_5881a1eac3ea1170e7577f3cf2ce93b35bcb6fe9.jpg
     
    RMAN808, Jul 21, 2013
    #37300
Page 1865 of 11191

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