What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

$100

 

added a bottle of cataclean just to see what happens.

No idea on the history of the Cat but I do know it failed smog 2 years ago and still has the stock or stock replacement cat. No rattling but I'm gonna have it back-pressure checked next Friday too.

 

thanks! i'll post it up as OBO

 

Awesome! I grew up riding one of those. Total blast.

 

Nothing. Honestly. Who wants to spend 100 bucks on 100k stock suspension? I be the bushings are shot and shocks are shot.

 

Those are factory "TRD" shocks with the skinny body Billies. Not to be confused with aftermarket Billies. The bushings are all toast or missing, one of the lower eyes looks bent.
The shocks and the TRD progressive coils were considered a nearly worthless option when new. The springs would sag dramatically in 10K-20K miles, sometimes less.
Those shocks/coils today are worthless except to someone that wants the fronts to sort of "hold their truck up" while their real shocks are being serviced and that's just the fronts.

The top plates have a little value, $10-$15 and the u-bolts have the most value of the group, you might get $20 for all 4 on a good day if they are in good shape.

There is a sucker born every minute but that would be your call.

 

Yea you're right. Rear bushings were all gone and the front bushings for the strut assemblies are trash.

I changed the price to $50. If I don't get any bites before I move back home to Hawaii at the end of August then to the trash they go

Yea I'm not expecting much interest but there might be that one person that might NEED them. Idk no biggie for me if they end up in the trash.

 

Removed the factory hardware from my rattling heat shield and tightened it down with some new stainless stuff. No more annoying rattle whenever I'm at about 1800 rpm.

 

285s

 

been working in a shop for years and did it the way he described hundreds of times and never fucked anything up. where did you get certified to be a mechanic?

 

years of working in the trade although i usually do collision repair work...and i must be hitting things harder than you guys(but im also 380#) once i get moving the hammer falls lol but ive mushroomed ball joint studs and ive hammered the nut further on the ball joint stripping the threads even though the nut was fully threaded... usually 2 light taps on the knuckle and a joint will fall apart. and never waste time with a fork on a ball joint i remember when i was 16 working on my 72 mustang i literally hammered for hours and the joint would not come apart. i did the "shock and fall" 3 taps and the almost 40 year old joint popped loose

 

Nice! Any rubbing issues? I'm on the fence between 285s or 33x10.5s. You also have different wheels than I do though, so I don't know how well they'd compare.

 

Yeah,I think it would be hard to compare. I do rub at full turn, and I think it's the Ucas because they have a rub spot but I still don't really know. I'm gonna order some 1/4 wheel spacers and see if they help. But if I were you I'd get the 285s or 12.5s unless 10.5s are better in snow, idk because we don't get snow haha

 

Sure the "shock" method works pretty good and it will work much better if the back side of the part is "bucked up" with a bigger mallet than you use for the striking. This adds mass to the assembly in line with the blow and concentrates the impact more in the joint in question.
The problem is there can be issues to a Tacoma steering rack from the impact spike of hammer blows to the linkage. It's a judgement call and in Toyota's judgement a puller is recommended. Honestly I use a puller, tighten it up then a light "tap" to the side and POP.

Not to be rude but I question your math. If you were 16 working on a 40 year old 72 mustang you would be 17 now, I don't see the "years of working in the trade".

 

sorry its a 40 year old car now good catch wasnt really paying attention to what i was typing lol the car would have been 26-27 years old lol (depending on the month of manufacture) maybe even 28 because i cant recall the month i worked on it..

 

Installed a Cobra 19 dxiv
Firestick II



90 degree elbow for behind the cb



Stud connector


Antenna location

 

my pissed me off i just ripped it off

 

Bending over backwards at the Toyota Dealer, for everything all said and done $3250 and this includes on the drivers side front. Upper/lower ball joints, UCA, LCA, Inner/outer tie rods, CV axle, Knuckle or spindle what ever some call them, wheel bearing, rotor, dust shield, brake line, ABS wire. Passenger Side Upper/lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends.

Tomorrow i get my free rental 2013 Tacoma and I'm gonna not like it i think.

 

I'm more worried about power loss than traction honestly. I don't wheel enough to justify 12.5s, although they do look awesome. Skinny tires will do better up here on ice, that's for sure. But I don't like how skinny tires look. So I think 285s are a good middle ground for me.

 

I wouldn't waste your time with 1/4 spacers. They will make it hard to centre the wheel on the hub and you'll likely get vibes. The stock studs are not very long and you'll have limited threads on the wheel nuts. Bora makes 3/4 inch bolt on hub centric wheel spacers. These will be much safer to use and will centre the wheel.