Timing Belt Change: Royal Screw Up (pics)

Same here have used the bumped method on the 3.4 many times also on other engines too.

 

on my 22r there was holes in the pulley that i put a screw driver (not a cheap walmart screw driver, a old when they was made good). It finally broke loose.

 

Hahaha, now its a half ass short cut huh? Well with that belief you are in a world of your own & if you were my tech in my shop dickin' around looking for the so called "right tool" while most tech's would've done it this way & be safely done with it & on to the next step I'd give you your walking papers as well & maybe tell you to look me up when you have more experience, & your not offending me, actually made me laugh when I read your reply but to each their own...

 

My input is get a 1/2 electric impact gun from harbor freight for $40. It's wicked convenient on lug nuts also, or get a chain whip tool to hold the pulley on place. Not really a fan of the bump method..

 

Sorry bud did not mean to hurt your fragile feelings.. sorry but that's just how I feel about using an engine stater to break bolts free. I made my tool in 20 min. I had no problem making it using it. I

 

I DID NOT MAKE THIS TOOL . JUST SHOWING PROPER TOOLING FOR JOB..
Correct tools and methods are always preferred by qualified knowledgeable technicians.

 

Snap.

 

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You must be the worlds fastest machinist !! 20 mins. to fab this !!!!!


sure you did...



Hahaha, now I really am laughing, this was 2 days ago "bud" & if you read my post you'd realize that your "half assed shortcut" comment is the only reason I responded, fragile feelings ?? I think not, I never said there wasn't a specialty tool for removing, just seems that if someone did the bolt removal any other way than the way you prescribe it's wrong or half assed (your words) You probably think 37ftlbs is acceptable torque for Ubolts too ....

 

just pull the efi fuse not the plugs much easier

 

Well I'll be dipped in shit. It works.

I didn't destroy my engine.
It's idling happily outside as I write this, coming to temp.
I did it all myself, (with counsel from others and a LOT of swearing)
I made my own crank tool (well, friend Malcomb made it), and without an SST. I had to remove the AC compressor & underlying bracket (a total bitch).

I spent too much on tools I couldn't use.

It just kicked-down from high idle. (Music to my ears.)

I'm exhausted. That was the most terrifying thing I've ever done to my truck, as I was sure I had messed it up royally (perhaps I speak too soon? Knock on wood.)...

...I'll be damned...I did it....

 

Congratulations. You just gained lots of knowledge and save some $$$. I know that bolt or any crank bolt for that matter is a pain to loosen and I've used nothing but the bump method.

 

Nice work James!

 

Im a Technician, and this is common practice on alot of vehicles. Most of the time the 1/2'' Impact works just fine, but for alot of smaller cars the breaker bar and starter is the way to go for tight fits. I have no idea wtf that tool is he is using but throw that shit away.

 

I know what it is, but its not needed its a waste of man power.

 

The tool takes the place of an expensive store-bought one that holds the harmonic balancer while you torque the crank-bolt the other direction. Using a breaker bar and the ground and touching the ignition appears to work, and, if truth be told, I'll probably use that method in 6-7 years when I have to do this job again. But the "tool" still has to be used, otherwise there's no accurate way to get to the required torque when reassembling the motor.

"Just crank it as hard as you can with a breaker bar, that's what I do," isn't good enough. It really isn't.

 

I didn't notice you had to do this special tool creation or said bump method when changing the timing belt, suddenly I am not enthused to get the job done.

 

I was changing them anyways.

 

"Trial by fire" .... is always the best teacher ...
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