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2.7L oil capacity

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by 05RedTaco, Dec 21, 2010.

  1. Jul 30, 2013 at 3:30 AM
    #41
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Fill the filter with about 1/2 qt before putting it on and dump a 5 qt jug in the motor, start it up and make sure no leaks on drain or filter & check the stick in the morning. Only way to get good read with fresh oil. 5.5 = just right on stick, 6.1 = too much.
     
  2. Jul 30, 2013 at 7:36 AM
    #42
    tooter

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.
    The dipstick on my 2012 reads right on full with 6 quarts and a fresh oil filter. That's one of the things I like most about the Taco 4 bangers is their 6 quart capacity. Lots of oil capacity means engine longevity. :thumbsup:

    I put 6 quarts in my Gen 1 for 17 years with no seal issues and I will put 6 quarts in my 2.7 for another 17 years with no seal issues. :)
     
  3. Jul 30, 2013 at 6:54 PM
    #43
    jmarquez808

    jmarquez808 Large Member

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    ^^^ that's what u think mauahahaha lol. No but seriously From what ive read and the reason there are tsb's on our trucks seals is that it's been a common problem, bad seals. Done a lot of searching and to my surprise many people have had the problem and many people have not. Never say never.
     
  4. Jul 30, 2013 at 6:58 PM
    #44
    Recker

    Recker Well-Known Member

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    What a timely post to see. Just did my first oil change on my new to me 07 2.7L....the dipstick, what a PITA! I put a 5.1 quart jug of Mobil 1 in and a new filter. Like everyone else, can't get a good reading on the dipstick. At least now I don't feel so crazy.
     
    D0m1n1ck likes this.
  5. Jul 30, 2013 at 10:01 PM
    #45
    tooter

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.
    I'll be one of the many who don't because my dipstick reads on the full dot with 6 quarts and a fresh filter. :)
     
  6. Aug 1, 2013 at 11:04 PM
    #46
    surferkid

    surferkid Zombie Killer

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    ive been putting 6 in mine for 3 years and its always a tad above full mobile 1 5w20 see how it goes just have 60k on the odometer
     
  7. Aug 1, 2013 at 11:16 PM
    #47
    tooter

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.
    What helps to get most of the old oil out is to change it after driving when the oil is nice and hot. Pulling a hot filter allows the backflow valve chamber to drain. I also let everything (filter and pan) drain for at least a half hour until the dripping almost completely stops.
     
  8. Aug 1, 2013 at 11:20 PM
    #48
    surferkid

    surferkid Zombie Killer

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    this is probably why im able to get 6 quarts in always change it after the motor is at operating temp
     
  9. Aug 2, 2013 at 11:25 AM
    #49
    Mr. Pick

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    I used to always do mine when they were hot, but this 0-20 in my 2012 is so thin it doesn't seem to make much difference. It drains out about like water.
     
  10. Aug 24, 2013 at 7:12 PM
    #50
    SpeedoJosh

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    What oil does toyota recommend?
    My neighbor has a 2nd gen 5 lugger, and asked me. I have a first gen, so didn't want to lead him wrong b/c I wasn't sure how much Toyota changed in the 2.7 over the years.
     
  11. Aug 24, 2013 at 7:21 PM
    #51
    Rich91710

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    2nd Gen 2.7 calls for 5w20 or 0w20.
     
  12. Aug 24, 2013 at 9:22 PM
    #52
    SpeedoJosh

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    Cool thanks. How much?
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    J/k. Read through the thread. Gonna tell them to go with 5.5.
     
  13. Aug 25, 2013 at 5:32 AM
    #53
    SVHANC

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    Adding a half can of LubroMoly MOS2 for each oil change also makes the oil more visible on the dipstick as well as add Moly to plate on parts for cold startup protection.
    I am a 5.5qt guy, which works out well since the wife's car also ends up at the half quart so it comes out even. Neither vehicle uses any oil between changes.
     
  14. Aug 25, 2013 at 7:48 AM
    #54
    tooter

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.
    That's the trick... :)
    There's lots of oil in the passageways, so if you're patient and give them plenty of time to drain from the pan and filter base, you get a more complete 6 quart change. Another trick is to park your truck on a slant so that the oil pan drain hole is on the lowest side of the pan. :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2013
  15. Sep 20, 2013 at 7:33 PM
    #55
    Mackoma

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    I stressed over this capacity thing after my last oil change. This time, on the way to my parents house (where I change my oil in the nice garage) I stopped by two toyota dealerships and asked to talk to a technician (not just a salesman or the guy at the parts counter, the guys who actually change the oil). Two separate techs at two separate dealerships both told me that when they change the oil in a 2.7 tacoma, they fill with 5 quarts, run the engine for a few minutes and then add accordingly until they reach the full line on the dipstick. They specifically said that they "GO BY THE DIPSTICK". It even states to start with less and add accordingly in the Manual under the capacity specifications (probably not in those exact words but thats the point).

    IMHO Toyota has been manufacturing solid vehicles for years, and there engineers would not put an inaccurate dipstick in a vehicle. Now the dipstick being hard to read with fresh oil is another story but the full line marks optimum operating capacity. If you can get all 6.1 quarts drained and add 6.1 quarts of fresh oil, more power to you. I found I only had to add 5 to reach the mark. With 5k mile change intervals and the quality of synthetics these days, 5 fresh and 1 dirty is fine with me. Also i dumped my used oil back into the 5 quart jug and guess what? 5 quarts is what drained out. I have heard of guys being successful with draining it with the front end jacked up to get the extra quart out but haven't tried it first hand.

    I have checked my oil every couple days since the last change and now that its dirtied up a bit where I can see it on the dipstick, its right at the full mark. I really hope this clears some stuff up because I know how much it bothered me not knowing if I had the proper amount and I would like to help prevent others from having to stress over it. For those of you who don't give a shit "its close enough" (and it probably is close enough), you're lucky to not have OCD.

    Sorry for the rant - Mack
     
  16. Sep 20, 2013 at 7:58 PM
    #56
    rickcrna

    rickcrna Well-Known Member

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    Now why would two technicians from independent locations lie about their oil change technique? Now YOU make no sense.
     
  17. Sep 20, 2013 at 8:14 PM
    #57
    Rich91710

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    On getting a good reading on the dipstick, it appears that the end of the dipstick tube is submerged, so removing the stick drags oil up the tube and makes it hard to get a good reading.

    Remove and wipe dipstick, and leave it out for a few minutes (4 or 5).
    Reinsert and remove and you will have a good reading that's not smeared all over the stick.

    Likewise, first thing in the morning before starting the engine you can usually get a good clean reading.
     
  18. Sep 21, 2013 at 10:46 AM
    #58
    Taco Pete626

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    I did my oil change last month with no oil filter, and 5 qts puts the level slightly above the full mark. Oil was drained for 10-15 minutes. My theory is that maybe Toyota made a typo in the manual where they are off by 1 qt. It seems to make more sense.
     
  19. Sep 21, 2013 at 3:05 PM
    #59
    tooter

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    I totally agree. I ran 6 quarts in my 1996 4 banger for 17 years without any problems.

    1. Drain hot.
    2. Pull filter.
    3. Let drip 30 min.
    4. Fill 6 quarts. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Sep 21, 2013 at 7:13 PM
    #60
    Mackoma

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    Let me know if this is incorrect but wouldn't the amount of oil in the system be regulated by the oil pump? So no matter how much oil is in the pan, the amount running through the engine remains constant whether you're say... a half qt low or a half qt high, or hell even a full quart. So whatever extra you may put in it is just hangin out in the pan waiting to be circulated?

    Maybe they just call for more oil than necessary to keep it cleaner. Think about it. If i put 1 drop of food coloring in 1 gallon of water, it will be more colored that the exact amount of food coloring in two gallons of water. If you think of the water as oil, and the food coloring as contaminants, more oil just reduces the ratio of contaminants/oil by dilution.

    It seems logical in my mind but just a thought.

    Let me know if i'm way off base with this oil pump thing though, I've been thinking a lot about it. And if I am off base, i'd prefer facts as to why and not opinions Lol.
     

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