NJ B.S. Thread

duriong sandy it snowed we had to shovel 6 " of snow....
so we had no trouble keeping beer n food cold......
plus my cooler can last 3 days when its 90's out with the addition of ice...
just saying......

and my fridge would have worked except the people that work for the light company dropped the ball for 36 days.......JOSH

 

The light company??? Would that be the sun?

 

Are you going this weekend? If so I think I'd be down!

 

Both switches are going to be LED lighted and I was hoping to have the power come from the power that goes to my clock because I am making a switch panel in the clock location. Would I be able to run a power cable from the blitzpros to my switch and have that also power the LED in that switch as well as the LED for the Hella's? Or am I trying to get too much power from something that probably doesn't have much power going to it to begin with?

 

Sylvania?

 

gonna take a ride out tonight, you?

 

Well the stock wiring for the clock is really thin gauge wire. I'd suggest not using it. If you get an add a circuit and plug it into your fuse box (I'm guessing you have a fuse box in your cab since 2nd gens do) you can use that to supply power to your switches. The switch for the led bar can just have the power output wire go straight to the led bar power wire. The switch for the Hellas would have the power output wire go to the signal input wire on your relay. Then you run another power wire from the add a circuit or the battery to the power input on the relay. Then a wire from the relay ground to a ground or the negative terminal on your battery. Then the power output wire from the relay to the power input wire on the Hellas. Then ground the ground wire on your lights and you're good to go.

Illuminated switches will need a ground wire also, so that's 2 more wires to ground as well.

Get a good wire skinner/crimper and some heat shrink butt splices and ring terminals.

 

Lol.


So I've been working on an air horn idea with some air horns from one of the old trucks.

Since I already have the arb compressor I just need to mount the horns and run an air line to them, and add a way to trigger them. I've always been concerned about the quick disconnect on my air compressor for the air hose to fill up my tires since there's no cap for it or anything. I'm sure plenty of dust has gotten in there. So to cap that I'm thinking I can just get a male air line disconnect and then get some fittings to attach an air line to it for the air horns. Then when I'm just driving around ill always have the air horns plugged in and just flip the switch for the compressor to activate the horns. Then when I need to use the locker or the compressor to fill tires, I just disconnect the air horn air line.


Make sense? Should work right?


I don't know what volume of air the horns need or what volume of air the compressor puts out, so that's a concern as well. Without using a tank it might not be enough of a blast.

 

this is how i did mine, can't go wrong

no big deal

 

That only works on second gens

 

I think I totally get what you are saying. I already have a bunch of heat shrnk tubes, and a good skinner/crimper and usually sodder my connections as well.

 

Cool! Heat shrink and solder is the way to go. I was guessing you didn't have anything yet.

I'm a very visual learner, so I have to draw stuff out before I do it. Wouldn't hurt for you to draw it all out and make sure you know what has to go where, then when you install everything it's already mapped out for you.

 

Yeah drawing it out may be my best option. I'm seriously considering setting up an aux block inside one of my rear seats for all the lighting I eventually plan to add in the bed but I think I will wait until I am ready for that. Thank you guys for your help.

 

comprehensive insurance on your truck?

 

I do lol

 

game on

 

Need a cooler like that to keep my beer cold while I'm at work, if I pick it up before I head in. Second shift and nothing is open after work.

 

At workkkkk son